Grey Gardens FJ62LG-PNEA: An idiots guide to resurrecting a high mileage FJ62 (2 Viewers)

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It runs great. Maybe it’s the magic 3FE tractor motor; maybe it’s the little tires or the 5th gear overdrive.

It passes and drives great at the cruise RPM.

I’d say the only fault right now that’s actually worrying me is the fact that the driveshaft came from my 60 and was rebuilt. It was on the truck when I had the Outputshaft flange get loose and then the bolts loosened.

I think it’s got a bent flange; or the slip joint splines are really worn. It vibrates at speed.

I’m going to swap shafts between the 60 and 62 to troubleshoot.
 
I just ran the truck at idle. The water/radiator cleaner in it looks terrible. I have a feeling that flushing this is going to be a whole thing.

I'm going to do all flushes from here out with distilled water. I've got to be methodical if I want the cooling system to come clean.
 
I just ran the truck at idle. The water/radiator cleaner in it looks terrible. I have a feeling that flushing this is going to be a whole thing.

I'm going to do all flushes from here out with distilled water. I've got to be methodical if I want the cooling system to come clean.
When I flushed my 40, it was brutal.
I think it was 7 of the 5 gallon jugs until it was cleared out completely.

I had initially thought I was good but when I went to fill the system, it would only take about 1/2 the amount. Went at it again and found more blockage and junk. The biggest mistake I made was not changing out all of the hoses and clamps because yes, I had to drain the system again when it became apparent that the “blockage” was partially what was keeping my system leak free.

Don’t be me.

1st flush vs after I found the subsequent blockage.
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@HemiAlex Man, I’d go ahead and save yourself the heartache and garden hose that thing. Go a couple different directions - into the block and into the radiator. Let it come out the radiator drain, then block drain, then probably both. Then start some cycles of running it with distilled water for 15-20 minutes and draining to get more gunk and also the minerals from the hose water out. I think the hose flush will save you a ton of time and possible flush out more junk.
 
@HemiAlex Man, I’d go ahead and save yourself the heartache and garden hose that thing. Go a couple different directions - into the block and into the radiator. Let it come out the radiator drain, then block drain, then probably both. Then start some cycles of running it with distilled water for 15-20 minutes and draining to get more gunk and also the minerals from the hose water out. I think the hose flush will save you a ton of time and possible flush out more junk.
That was what I ended up doing.
Came at it every way possible, each time I thought I was there, I tried a different direction and got more out. Then did the distilled water flush and finally the sweet pink juice.
 
When I flushed my 40, it was brutal.
I think it was 7 of the 5 gallon jugs until it was cleared out completely.

I had initially thought I was good but when I went to fill the system, it would only take about 1/2 the amount. Went at it again and found more blockage and junk. The biggest mistake I made was not changing out all of the hoses and clamps because yes, I had to drain the system again when it became apparent that the “blockage” was partially what was keeping my system leak free.

Don’t be me.

1st flush vs after I found the subsequent blockage.
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This is why we are all here. Emotional support.

Thanks for showing me this. And also thanks to @CruiserTrash for sending me the 90910-09120 number for the drain petcock

I’m not draining it again til I get this part. I could actually control the mess with this.

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This is why we are all here. Emotional support.

Thanks for showing me this. And also thanks to @CruiserTrash for sending me the 90910-09120 number for the drain petcock

I’m not draining it again til I get this part. I could actually control the mess with this.

View attachment 3611324
A note about that - it goes in the block drain of a 2F/3F. The original radiators have what appears to be a nut or something with wrench flats around the drain plug, but DO NOT try to twist it out with a socket - it's brazed on! I learned that the hard way trying to install one of these on a radiator. JB Weld saved me.
 
New koso temp gauge in.

Maybe this will give me an idea of the scale on the gauge and let me know what it’s actually doing.

The cooling system flush is ongoing. I don’t expect it to end anytime soon.

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First flush today and last flush today. This was just through the radiator. Currently has vinegar and distilled water in it.

I’ll do this again next week when I have the proper block drain in place.

Temps look the same at idle. I’ll drive it when it stops raining here and see if my temp creep stops.

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FYI, factory temp sensors need to have a clean contact with ground threads for reliable readings, hard to say if you'll have an issue but the threads don't/shouldn't have thread tape.
Unsure if I’ve done the temp sensor on this, but I’ll check.

Thanks for the heads up.
 
You might consider neutralizing the vinegar after. Even a low concentration of baking soda and distilled water. Vinegar is good at its job, sometimes, too good.
 
That’s a great idea. I’m going to run it for a few days and then I’ll neutralize and flush again.

I’m probably only 50% through with this process.
 
Take your time. I didn’t and it cost me a bunch of time.
 
Disregard! I thought you used an oem sensor on the rad hose, I didn't notice until I looked again on my computer.
It’s a koso gauge for a motor cycle. I may try it without the the tape, but it’s pretty close in temp depending on where I point the IR gun.
 
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