which truck to put 13BT into (3 Viewers)

[rutbeer]

Yup, factory 3B frame mounts. The actual rubber pucks may be a little different but otherwise very close. Yes, the motor is at least 4 inches forward of stock. That's because the shift tower location on the 5spd is different on a 70 series from a 40 one. This also gives me a little more room on the firewall for hoses and stuff to cross from one side to the other. I need that for the heater connections.....
Yeah, a 3b shroud may be worth finding....

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The stock fan shroud for a BJ42 extends a good 5-8? inches back. I'll take some measurements of mine and e-mail a picture to you this evening. My plans in the future are to move my radiator back a few inches to place an intercooler in front of the radiator. I was planning on trimming the depth of the shroud to compensate for the change in radiator location. So, I'm sorta in the same boat as you with my 81 Bj42 (just from the opposite direction).

 

[rutbeer]

Well, I'm also low compared to center of the rad. I don't understand this really unless I need to mount the engine at more of an angle. Problem is the mounts are on the frame rails where they need to be height wise. I'm just not going to get it much higher without rubber mount spacers... But maybe an half inch of spacer gives me an inch at the fan and we're golden. that, and lower the t/case a half inch or so.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Here's the picture of the engine compartment with the fan shroud. It extends pretty far back to reach the fan.

http://filebox.vt.edu/users/rhedderl/Engine Compartment.jpg

 

[xtremitys]

rutbeers 13Bt looks ultra clean for a 2nd hand motor . I'm doing a 13bt Build soon , i bought snails red 13Bt a wee while ago as a rebuilder to be dropped into a wee 89' LJ71 once built , currently has a 2LT in it . these engine mount pictures come in handy as i will be doing that also .

I just bought a garret GT25 VATN also called a VTN for it, plan to find another .

Does anyone know if a 14B or 15B crank will fit in a 13BT & you know if the natural & turbo cranks are the same material ( cast or forged steel ) ??? asked this before but did'nt get a "yeh or neh"

 

[xtremitys]

rutbeers 13Bt looks ultra clean for a 2nd hand motor . I'm doing a 13bt Build soon , i bought snails red 13Bt a wee while ago as a rebuilder to be dropped into a wee 89' LJ71 once built , currently has a 2LT in it . these engine mount pictures come in handy as i will be doing that also .

I just bought a garret GT25 VATN also called a VTN for it, plan to find another .

Does anyone know if a 14B or 15B crank will fit in a 13BT & you know if the natural & turbo cranks are the same material ( cast or forged steel ) ??? asked this before but did'nt get a "yeh or neh"

 

[rutbeer]

convert to manual shift

Okay, back to the show. Convert your vac case to manual.
You must order the manual shift shaft for the front half. Remove the bolt and spring on the original, slide the fork off, then slide onto the new shaft. Insert roll pin with the vice and viola!
You must also drill and tap the shift detents.
Using a half inch bit or a 13.5 mm bit, drill the boss and use your brand new, very expensive, custom tap. You won't find this tap anywhere that I looked, I had to have it made, but I will rent it to ya!

 

[rutbeer]

Insert seal

Tap in the new seal on the front of the case, but don't go too far in. You must leave about an 1/8" to catch the lip of the rubber boot. I went too far and had to pry it gently back out a bit.

 

[rutbeer]

Radiator

I looked at the radiators for a long time and decided it would be less work to modify the 2F radiator. I was right. I took it to the local shop and they flipped the lower tank, and pushed the tube out the other side. All cleaned, pressure tested, painted, and out the door for $50. Can't beat it.


I also started working on the 60 series steering. I cut the fender well, and took rough cuts on the shock tower. I need to trim just a bit more of the fender, maybe 1/2" for flex and then I'll be good to go. I won't need to worry about the radiator clearance with what I'm doing, so no problemo.

I'm dying on the motor mounts though....geez, would somebody sell me some 3B mounts already.

 

[Tapage]

Okay, back to the show. Convert your vac case to manual.

Damn dude .. nice stuff !

 

[rutbeer]

Just wait till I show what I've cooked up for the shifters. That will be fun. I found a local waterjet company and have another lined up just for pricing. This will be a trick twin stick using all factory parts...plus my adapter.

 

[rutbeer]

The "excavator"

Yeah, I should rename my truck from "Biesel" to "Excavator".....look at all the dang levers in here! And don't forget that I have two cable locker levers in all this mess too.

Well, as promised, here are the prototype pics of the twin stick. This is a thin version of the final, but it's easy to bend the thin stuff and get it to the shape you want. I'll have this waterjet cut to this profile, but thicker. Works really well.....and uses all factory parts except for my bracket adapter.

 

[xtremitys]

that looks awesome , hate to fall over & lose your memory - you would'nt know how drive your truck -lol

 

[Tapage]

Yeah, I should rename my truck from "Biesel" to "Excavator".....look at all the dang levers in here! And don't forget that I have two cable locker levers in all this mess too.

Well, as promised, here are the prototype pics of the twin stick. This is a thin version of the final, but it's easy to bend the thin stuff and get it to the shape you want. I'll have this waterjet cut to this profile, but thicker. Works really well.....and uses all factory parts except for my bracket adapter.

clean and sparkling job dude ..

 

[xtremitys]

rutbeer >>>"You must order the manual shift shaft for the front half" - where do you buy this shaft from ? I definatelly want to to do this to my T/case now seeing yours , Awesome discriptions & posts

cheers buddy
Rick

 

[rutbeer]

Steering box plate

Whipped up a quick frame reinforcing plate for the 60 box. This bolts to the inside of the frame and the front crossmember. I have to clearance my holes a little bit more for the crush tubes, but that won't be too bad.

 

[rutbeer]

final steering setup

Picked up an 87 minitruck steering shaft. This clears the shock mount a lot better than the 60 shaft, but I did mount the 60 shaft to the other end. I need to figure out whether to weld this solid, or cut the slip splined section off the 60 shaft and then weld that to the original steering column. I don't think I need the slip part, but it wouldn't hurt either.....just much harder to get a good weld. I might be able to find a small section of pipe that will fit over the two stubs to reinforce though. Also moved the radiator housing back and over. I need to clear the a/c radiator so, the space is needed.

 

[rutbeer]

more

More pics...
I still need to mount the support bearing before the weld though...waiting on that part.

 

[rutbeer]

Okay, went a different route with the steering column. I bought an internal support bearing from CruiserOutfitters and tapped that in. Works great. This also left me enough room to cut the slip yoke splined section and weld/sleeve it onto the original column. BUTTER!
The steering is now IN.
The motor is now IN.
The radiator needs to be moved again....not quite enough room for the a/c condensor. Oh well.
I measured for the driveshafts last night, so I'll get those cut and adjusted this week.
Now's the fun part. How in the heck do you make the bend from the radiator to the lower water outlet on the pump? That's nasty.....wonder if I'll have to splice two hose together with a section of straight tube in between.

I also have to figure out where and how to mount the battery. The turbo is in the way of where the air cleaner should go, and the steering box is in the way of the battery moving to the starter side. Won't be fun. What did others do?

 

[rutbeer]

a/c

Now I'm working on a/c mounting so that I know I have my radiator moved far enough back. Cool cruisers says 1/2", but I think that's way off. I suppose you could make it a little tighter than I did, but I didn't want the studs from the grill emblem eating into the condensor. I had to mod the radiator frame a bit. the cross member and the grill mesh were removed so that the condensor could be mounted in close enough to the radiator. I drilled and tapped two holes on the right side, then welded two sturdy brackets on the left. Worked like a champ, it doesn't move or flex towards the radiator at all. I put the whole assembly in, and still have maybe 1/4" clearance on the emblem bolts. Not a big deal, but it does make the radiator hose a real PITA.