which truck to put 13BT into

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hose

I took the BJ74 lower hose and cut it into three pieces to get the curves I needed. As a tempory mock up, I slid two pieces of aluminized exhaust pipe inside....then I got to looking at it....the factory 2F had something similar from the factory. So maybe I tidy this up and leave it because I don't know that I'll ever find anything that comes close to matching these complex bends.
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The hose looks good, only thing I can think of, is that the factory metal peice that goes in the radiator hose has a ridge or lip if you will on the ends to help hold the hose on and seal it better. May be worth looking into. I'm not a big metal fabricator, but I think a ridge could be rolled into them pretty easily.

The project is looking great overall. I like it alot. On the AC condensor and the emblem nuts, should be okay, but I know my front end will get to moving quite a bit on washboarded roads, and the front end will flex at full articulation, at least with stock suspension. The hood will actually be offset at full flex. It may move the nuts in an undesirable direction. Just something to check for once you get it running.
 
Thanks. Yes, I plan on hitting the ramp near my house to test clearances. I have quite a few things that are CLOSE. I have only about an inch between the air cleaner and the dump valve on the turbo. With enough body flex and entire torque, they may hit. :( There just isn't any other easy places to put it, and it might actually be easier to extend the dump valve actuator rod and move the whole thing forward a few inches. I could add in a turnbuckle that way for boost adjustments too. :)
It was disappointing to realize there's no room for air/air intercooler though.... Because of where I placed the motor, it's just not there. I guess I can always do a water/air IC if I wanted. Maybe mount the mini rad over where the carb fan used to be and draw air through the fender. Eh...maybe not. Depends on airflow I guess.
 
Does the air cleaner intake go over to the radiator for that reason, for a cooler. That would be cool, maybe just a snorkel would give you pretty good airflow and cooler air for the system.

As for testing clearances, good idea. Is the air cleaner mounted to the fender, or to the frame like the battery box was mounted over there. I've noticed my battery box, which is slightly oversized from stock. It is a stainless tray from Summit racing, hits the fender. Must be due to flex and vibrations. I assume the fender bounces over into it, but don't know for sure. You could have trouble with the fender if your air cleaner is mounted to it only.
 
i have been following this for a bit. exellent work for now i think you will be happy without inter or after cooling there are companies that make very small
after coolers as in a dirrect replacement boost tube the tube from turbo to manifold.
aaron
 
Distractions

So, now a few of you will understand why this has taken me so long. The wife made me promise to remodel the master bath and kitchen before working on this project. Well, I put up the final shelf in the kitchen yesterday, so I snapped a pic. It's been a huge time hog for me, but I think the end result was worth it. Not car related, but it did require lots of TOOLS and fabrication!
Mary's House 014.webp
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I know how those projects go, I started building a man cave last summer, 30x44 garage, I should have the electricity into it next week I hope. Then I have to get the septic system and well done and we can move our trailer house out to where the garage is built on 6 acres of land that we got.

Needless to say, the cruisers have been on the way back burner, with no heat under them at all. I'm getting antsy to get the house moved out so I can work a little more steadily on the garage to get it finished inside and get to work on my cruisers. The place is 6 miles out of town, so by the time you get off work, run an errand or two and go out and work, the evening is winding down. But hopefully, soon we'll be moved out.

The kitchen looks great, I saw the first pic and didn't scroll down to see the second pic right away, and thought, "no offense, but that is a pretty old and dated kitchen, you sure you remodeled." Then I saw the second pic, very attractive for that style of home and kitchen space, nice work.

I'm dreaming of a house now, we are going to save back up and start the house in a couple of years.
 
Oh, I'm sure I remodeled! That's funny....
My wallet still feels it, even though I did the work. A lot of those materials are still expensive....though it did probably cost me half of what I would run if I paid someone else.

Yeah, the projects pile up. I have had the fj45 for many years now, and have done basically nothing to it. Two different 40 projects, two house remodels, a trailer, and a 60 and an 80 thrown in to maintain just doesn't leave enough time for everything and still keep a marriage.

Blah, blah....back to the project. I found an upper radiator hose tonight that works, and got the vacuum line run to the booster. On a 78 fj40, there is a vapor canister than has a hard line across the firewall. I'm replacing the vapor canister with a vacuum canister of the same size. The vacuum pump will go to the canister, then to the hard line on the firewall, then to the booster. So far so good....maybe pics tomorrow. Too dark tonight.

I'm also trying to find a hose that will loop the heater lines so I don't have to run that crazy hard line over the top of the intake. It's hard to explain without pics, so I'll post that up later too.
 
This is all Toyota stuff so it should be a bolt in deal, right ;p What's with all this metal fabbin & "waterjet cutting" I hear of? You're too advanced for me :) Great job on the install so far, looks like a pro shop did the conversion! Can't wait till you get tired of the leafs & design a REAL suspension for that :grinpimp:
 
Yup, I'm considering 70 coils for next year. ;)
Heck, this 40 is half 70 already, so why not, right?
 
Need some alternator help.
What are the three wires in the plug that goes to the alternator on a 13b-t?
There is a red, blue, and a white wire, plus the "B" terminal and an "E" terminal.
The B terminal is obvious, but the three wires are not. I'm sure that one is a batt feedback, one is 12v from the ignition, and one is the charge light, but no wiring diagram I look at is labeling the wires these colors.
Anyone?
 
The B terminal is obvious, but the three wires are not. I'm sure that one is a batt feedback, one is 12v from the ignition, and one is the charge light, but no wiring diagram I look at is labeling the wires these colors.
Anyone?[/quote]

Rutbeer,
nice work on the project. It looks like you and I have run into some similar issues. I'm currently putting an red 13bt into my 76 FJ40. I have run into the exact same alt wiring question. I worked with an electrical shop and this is as far as we came up with. The shop told me the white wire works from the battery hot position. So I assume this is the "S" and currently I have it wired in with the B position wire (will run the lower amp fuse later).
As for the red and blue wires, all we could figure out was that the alternator works when either one get IG power. So, I am trying to skip the charge light setup and have an "IG" wire hooked into the red. I haven't got the truck running yet to see if I'm right or not. Let me know what you think.
I will post some pics soon.
 
So you think the white wire is the battery feedback line, eh?
This is the line that tells the alt to quit charging, right?
I had the same guess on the red wire, which is what mine is currently hooked to.
I think the blue is the charge light, but I won't be using one.
 
vac can

Bought a summit vacuum resoir and mounted it where the original charcoal canister went. Even used the original line on the firewall to run over to the booster.
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batt and intake

Battery tray worked out well....the air cleaner lid, not so much.
I need to figure out what to do here.
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alt ?

Here's where I'm stuck. I have it temporary wired, but I'm not sure this is right at all. Anyone?
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Alt wiring

This alt looks that have internal V regulator ..

As far I know Tapage is right. Mine 13bt alt, has an internal regulator. On my 76 FJ40 the WB and WG were just linked to the external regulator and the ground. I could go into more detail around what wiring changes I made, but I'm not completely confident yet. I need to get my 13bt running first.
 
shroud

Doing a little fabbing on the 2F shroud. I moved it to the driver's side by 1.5" then narrowed the fan opening a bit. Looks like it will work well.
Rusty sheet metal is much harder to weld though....
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Beer stein

JEEZ!!!!! :eek:
I saw photos of these things, but never saw one in person or saw one next to something of scale. Holy crap! Where am I going to mount this?????
filterfan 002.webp
 
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