Where to begin - Inherited my Aunt's 77 FJ40

[NellieFJ40]

Hello everyone,

I hope I've posted this in the right location and that I'm not too new to be helped! Awesome resource here and apparently some awesome members who have already helped me out.

My Aunt recently passed away and I inherited her 1976(?) FJ40. The data plate shows a build date of October 1976. My Aunt called her Nellie and I will keep the name! She had some truly amazing adventures in the mountains of Colorado and I hope to one day be able to make my own memories crawling around in the mountains with Nellie. She loved her old truck!

Over the past 20 years or so she used the FJ to move snow with a rear mounted 8 foot snow blade. Over that time she couldn't have put more than a couple of miles on a year. The truck spent a good number of years outside and thus I'm sure the rust shown in the pictures below.

The truck seems to run well but I dont have anything to compare it to. In driving it around the last few days the clutch seems to work well as do the brakes. I havent had it running past 40 mph or so as the engines starts to sound pretty loud.

Anyway, over time I hope to maybe do some of the very easy tasks myself (limited tools and moreso knowledge/capabilities) but will hopefully be able to have some work done getting Nellie back into working condition. Obviously theres alot of body work and mechanical work as well. I never need this to be a show truck but rather something that I can toodle around in a bit and do some easy to intermediate off roading with.

I'm not sure where to even begin with this. I've talked to a few members of the local Tall Corn Cruisers group and got a mechanic and body shop to consult with but thought I would start a thread and get some additional thoughts as well!

Thanks so much,
Matt

 

[mossman40]

Welcome ! Nellie seems like a perfect name for your 40 and by keeping the name you offer some respect to your Aunt. My condolences on her passing.

Drive it ! Then go out and drive it some more. Make sure fluids, brakes etc. are in good operating condition. You will need to decide how far you will go with reconditioning of your new vehicle. It can get expensive but enormously satisfying to work on these wonderful machines. I was going to totally refurbish mine. Rebuild motor, body and have a pristine 40 to drive around. The reality is I have so much fun driving it and my dog loves it more than I that I can't bring myself to take it apart to work on it.

It appears as though you have the usual rusty areas which you should address to stop the deterioration. Lots of help here both in real time and in many threads on the site.

Good luck in your quest ! Enjoy!

 

[brian]

Build date of 10/76 would make it a 1977 model year.

 

[SSCR]

Mine is Sept. 1976 but titled as a 77. Nice rig, welcome to the insanity!

 

[sggoat]

Nice looking truck! There are some rusty areas in all the usual places-except--the amby door bottoms look pretty good! Clean engine compt. Hood and top appear to be in good shape-can't imagine the frame would be in serious trouble from the pics. Do the fluids and drive!!

 

[Pighead]

Has anyone said Welcome yet? Sorry, it's sorta traditional...
I think one of the first things you should obtain is a book or two. The Factory Service Manual (usually just called the FSM) is best and perhaps can even be downloaded. The Hayne's manual is not that bad and can often be found at your Friendly Local Auto Parts Store. You might want the emissions manual your your year too..do you have to smog it where you live?
Sailors generally think that re-naming a ship is bad luck...

 

[DSRTRDR]

congratulations on a cool aunt

to make the ride more comfortable, I would look into new spring bushings

 

[NellieFJ40]

Thank you all for your thoughts, particularly those related to my aunt. She will be missed but taking care of and enjoying this truck is one thing I can do to remind me of her! Mossman funny you should mention your dog. My aunt loved animals and I'm sure never went into the mountains in Nellie without them!

Ill go ahead and get fluids changed. Like I said though im new at this for sure! What all fluids should I change?

In Iowa we currently don't have any emissions testing. Ill look into the manuals as well.

Are there any other areas I should look for rust? Any other areas where pictures would help?

 

[mossman40]

I keep the keys to my 40 on a separate key chain. When I pick it up.......the ears on my dog perk up and she jumps to all fours !! Time to go for a ride !

I find that I enjoy the 40 with the top off. If you've never done this, please study up on removing it and have some strong able bodied people to help you. Many nuts and bolts to remove and some rubber type gaskets. It is a different world riding around in your 40 with the top off.

Oil change should be on the top of your list. Your 40 likes 8 quarts of oil to keep it lubricated (with filter change).

"Baselining" your new to you 40 is what is recommended.

Change the oil in the motor, differentials, transmission. Antifreeze...... drain, flush, change. Brake fluid......check, bleed, change. You now know that you've started "fresh" will the essentials to keep your 40 alive. Not everyone does all of this or even some of it. I did all of these as I tend to be a little OCD at times. You can do it yourself, with family and friends or you can pay a mechanic to do it. Entirely up to you and your wallet and your capabilities.

I think in the end you are going to be very happy. Remember that the 40 is older than what you are probably used to and it moves and stops in a different manner than what you are used to. Take it on short trips, take plenty of money for gas (these are not fuel efficient), wear your seat belts and have a blast.

 

[4mydogs]

FJ40 plus the personal connection plus your intentions = excellent karma.

Welcome!

 

[FishTacos]

Very cool aunt. My condolences.

Welcome to mud.

Get yourself 8 quarts of motor oil and two bottles of zinc motor oil additive (zddp additive) for your motor oil change and a new oil filter. Zinc additive is a good idea because of the design of the camshaft and valve lifters. It prevents premature wear.

Get yourself a grease gun. One with a flexible hose. There are Zerk fittings (a one way valve for grease injection) on the driveshafts, the universal joints (at each end of the driveshafts), and several points on the steering linkage (tie rod ends). Inject those guys full of grease and inspect them for looseness/play/wear while you are at it.

Get 2 gallons of 90w gear oil. This is for the front and rear differentials, transmission, and transfer case. Whenever changing the fluid in any of these four spots, always.......ALWAYS....remove the fill plug first...and then the drain plug. ALWAYS. If you remove the drain plug first and then you strip the fill plug or just can't get it to budge......well.....your Nellie will be rendered inoperable until you get lubricant back into the diff/trans/transfer. In these four spots the fill plug is the capacity indicator. I.e. Just fill it until it starts to overtop the fill hole. A way to pump the oil makes this much easier. Like an oil can with a manual thumb operated pump.

Most important: BRAkES.... Get a big bottle of brake fluid. Bleed and flush the brake's hydraulics. Also do the clutch hydraulics while you're at it. In fact, do the clutch first because it is much simpler than, although very similar to, the brake hydraulics.

Or pay a mechanic to do all that stuff and give it a good inspection.

Good luck and have fun driving it.

 

[FishTacos]

Also, get that right turn signal facing forward and tighten its fastener. Looks like it has a lazy eye.....

 

[NellieFJ40]

I like the idea of baselining the vehicle. I ought to be able to tackle the oil change no problem.

As far as the diffs transmission and transfer case really good point about fill before drain plug! For these systems do I need to flush somehow or is just letting them drain and then refilling good enough? Is there a preferred brand of gear oil?

as far as the brakes and clutch I'm afraid id be a bit lost. Is this a fairly simple process? If not could any decent shop do this work on this vehicle? Any thoughts on what it may cost?

ill get the turn signal straightened and fastened. The wiring for that light is just hanging down in the wheelwell. I need to get it hooked back up. Any insight on where it plugs in?

ive got a grease gun so ill get the zerks greased. Any specific grease?

I dont know that my aunt ever had the top off. I certainly didn't see nellie that way.

Thanks again for the thoughts re: my aunt.

 

[DSRTRDR]

X2 on the brakes

how to bleed brakes ? search for "two person method" as described by Pin_Head here on MUD

'77 MC Diagnosis confirm?

 

[Living in the Past]

Only place I have licensed 40s is at my cabin. When ever I start the one in my avatar one of our Pomeranians expects he is going. His is oversized and pure black with a very heavy coat. He is no sissy dog and we came him a pom-bear. He and I travel all the forest service roads in the area.

There are a few other muds members who have cabins around mine. One is from central Iowa. He restores Fj40s. Might contact him. His name is Tim and he goes by tjhaga here on mud.

 

[snaggletto]

Congrats on the new family member. I have a rusty '76. I totally agree to just drive it. The truck will tell you what it needs, but you have to put some miles on to flush out the gremlins. When a problem pops up do a search here and arm yourself with knowledge. Stock up on some good quality 6 point (no 12 point) metric sockets and some good penetrating oil. Rotella heavy duty 15w40 is easy to find and has a fair amount of zddp for flat tappet engines. For the tranny and transfer Toyota specs a GL4 (not GL5) based 90w gear oil, search for Brad Penn oil on google. For the front and rear differentials you do want a GL5 extreme pressure 90w gear oil, you can find this anywhere including walmart or farm stores.

 

[sggoat]

If you're going to grease the zircs, make sure--really sure, you clean all the fittings CLEAN, before plugging in the grease gun--you don't want dirt pushed into there.

 

[FishTacos]

X2 on clean Zerk fittings. Very important standard practice.

 

[FishTacos]

Bleeding brakes is not that hard. An assistant makes it a breeze even if they are just there to push the brake pedal on your command.

 

[sggoat]

x2 on the brake bleed--not that hard. If the reservoir shows a lot of black-looking fluid--suck it out(turkey baster) fill w/fresh fluid. Use the bleeder valve on the brake farthest away from the master(right rear). Hook up a clear tube to the discharge, into a container. Have a second person push the brake pedal down, open the bleed valve to discharge fluid into the container. When the pedal goes to the floor, close the bleeder valve, then have the second person release the brake. Step on the brake pedal again, then open the bleeder valve to discharge more fluid. When the pedal is floored again, close the valve. Repeat this until you get clear(no air bubbles) fluid out of the bleeder line. --Do this for all 4 wheels. You will need to check the master reservoir each time you bleed to make sure it is full--add fresh as needed.(don't let it get to the "add" mark)
Understand this will NOT clear your brake cylinders/calipers--only the lines to them--you may need to disassemble these to get ALL the gunk out
Post some turn signal info later, when I can find the pics