Where to begin - Inherited my Aunt's 77 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[NellieFJ40]

Thanks all! I think ill try to get the engine oil and 90wt gear oils changed first along with correcting the "lazy eye"!

I'm going to go with rotella 15w40 as mentioned above. Should I still add a bottle of redline break in zddp addative?

For the 90w gear oils based on snagglettos post above I understand that I need both gl4 and gl5 oils. Are 75-90 or 85-90 weights what I am looking for for a "90 wt" oil? Also will the diffs tranny and transfer case need to be "flushed" or can they just be emptied and then refilled?

Thanks everyone! Hopefully ill have some progress updates soon!

 

[NellieFJ40]

Sggoat awesome write up on bleeding brakes. Thanks!

For the gear oil is also looks like redline mt-90 is also an option? Do people have a recommendation? And do I need 1 gallon each of the gl4 and gl5?

 

[mossman40]

I guess we should have led you in this direction first off:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/f-a-q-frequently-asked-questions-f-a-q-updated-01-apr-12.13205/

Answers to almost all of your questions are here. Lots and lots to read. Get a coffee, beer, soda and relax and take some notes. There are usually DIY procedures for everything we have mentioned.

If you can tighten up that "lazy eye" turn signal, then in my opinion you can bleed the brakes, clutch, and change all the fluids just fine. Some of the procedures you might need two people. I use those times as an opportunity to get my wife or kids to help me out. My son has learned a good bit by watching and helping out. It can be a bunch of fun. It is easiest on those of us who have these vehicles as a "spare" vehicle. If mine was my daily I think the pressure to get something fixed would overrule the fun part of it.

Good luck and never be afraid to ask any question at all. There are some really hard ass people on here but in the end the goal is the same (to keep these machines up and running), and you will find most members are more than happy to lend you advice, tools, parts etc. etc.

 

[mossman40]

RUST is going to be your arch enemy. Almost all the bolts will be rusted, the nuts also. Read up on Kroil, PB Blaster etc. Sometimes when I work on mine I plan ahead. Spray PB Blaster on all nuts and bolts that I know I am going to be working with days in advance, multiple times. No matter how many times you spray them some.......are going to snap. This can create some bad thoughts going through your mind......try to stay sane.

When bleeding the brakes on mine, the brake lines to my bleeder valves were "soft" from rust. As I twisted the bleeder valve to open, well they just twisted right off. This lead to me replacing the rear brake lines, brake cylinders etc. Double checked the front lines and for some reason they are not as rusted. Try to be prepared, when something goes awry have patience, say "OH well" and go into the house and find out how to work around whatever problem you have by consulting IH8MUD.

 

[handcannon]

There is something I find that helps sometimes with stubborn rusty bolts. First, spray with PB Blaster, or ?, doing so for several days as already suggested. Then, when starting to try to remove them, first carefully tighten them just a little bit. This sometimes helps to break the rust bond. After this, loosen the bolt just a few degrees. Then tighten slightly before loosening a few more degrees. Keep working the bolt back and forth this way, continuing to periodically add more penetrating oil.

This is not a cure-all for rusty bolts, but I have found that the kid glove treatment can sometimes be more successful with that stubborn bolt.

Also, some bolts go through the captive nut, leaving exposed threads on the other side. If you can get a wire brush back there to clean the threads the success ratio will increase.

Good luck!

Don

 

[NellieFJ40]

Thanks handcannon. Ill get my first shot with the headlight. Sprayed pb blaster on it this morning.

Looking at rotella 15w40 I'm seeing a lot of diesel oil. That's not what I want, is it?

Also, I called a mechanic yesterday. Im going to try to bring it in and have them take a look next week. Until they've looked it over I'll likely hold off in fluid changes. Don't want to change fluids only to have them drained to do work on something!

Ill keep the thread updated with progress!

 

[Weber Sarge]

Rotella is diesel oil , it does work for older flat-tappet engines though but many prefer Delvac due to it's properties . I run the oddball - Mobil 1 5w40 synthetic as mine is driven in very cold weather at times . One thing regardless of what oil you use - look for Rislone zinc or zddp additives - you'll need 2 bottles for this engine as it holds 8qts of oil .

What area in Iowa ? I'm about 50 miles east of the Quad Cities ...
Sarge

 

[NellieFJ40]

Hi Sarge,

I live just east of des moines. Thanks for your input on oil. Ill look into the delvac as well. I was thinking of using the redline break in addative for zddp.

 

[SteveH]

Also, I called a mechanic yesterday. Im going to try to bring it in and have them take a look next week.

Unless this is a mechanic pretty well versed in old Toyotas and is a good listener, I'd be wary of letting them spend much of your money. If you post the mechanics recommendations here, you'll get some great 2nd opinions before you open your wallet.

Also, I wouldn't worry too much about any special oil for the transmission. I have run 80w-90 or 75-90 in many FJ40 transmissions and they shift just fine. They are not as finicky as more modern transmissions that might benefit from Redline oil. As for the diffs, if the oil in them is clean, I would drain and refill and not flush them in any way. If the oil is milky white, then change it, drive it until the oil is hot, then change it again.

 

[Weber Sarge]

The reason for GL4 spec oil in the trans is due to the brass parts in the synchro's . It is important and they can get sticky trying to change gears . The Redline break-in additive is fine albeit expensive compared to the Rislone .
A totally agree about mechanics - most modern guys don't understand these old trucks , they are quite tough but certain things take an old school wrench to do them justice . Problem is these days most of those guys are retired or dead and not too many of their "type" passed their skills along , my Dad was a total exception to that rule .

I was out there a few years ago to pick up an old '67 Wheel Horse on the south side of Des Moines - coldest day on record that year too , lol . The things we do to save old iron , lol .

Sarge

 

[NellieFJ40]

I hear you both concerning the mechanic. Kind of puts us non mechanically inclined in a bind! I'm guessing the the old school knowledge pertains primarily to the engine and transmission? I suppose if I need work on those systems maybe I could trailer the truck to a reputable land cruiser shop out of state?

I'm going to it to a body guy next week. Will be interested to see what they have to say...gulp!

 

[FJ404345]

I hear you both concerning the mechanic. Kind of puts us non mechanically inclined in a bind! I'm guessing the the old school knowledge pertains primarily to the engine and transmission? I suppose if I need work on those systems maybe I could trailer the truck to a reputable land cruiser shop out of state?

I'm going to it to a body guy next week. Will be interested to see what they have to say...gulp!

Matt, i would advise you just to take your time with it like your aunt did. It didn't rust overnight and still didn't brake down after so many years.
Right now maybe everything is still overwhelming , but time will bring you the knowledge to find the way of getting this FJ40 many more years of fun.

Enjoy it !!

 

[Weber Sarge]

Get your hands on a factory service manual - there are places you can download it or get a paper copy . It's written in a nice simple form and really makes a difference with good details on every part of that vehicle . Yes , most of the info lost is about the engine and trans but the whole thing overall takes a different learning scale and attitude .
Sarge

 

[Dudleyfj40]

Welcome, Sorry to hear about your Aunt.

There are lots of directions to go with your cruiser, It all depends on how much money you want to spend on it.
I have brought a couple back to life and there is not a better feeling than doing it yourself.

It can get expensive if you buy parts on Ebay. I would check here local for mechanical parts and Real Steel in Ill. for new body panels. Driving there will save you tons in shipping. Doing body work your self is miserable but lots cheaper.

It doesn't sound like you will need mechanical parts right now.

Lots of 40 knowledge and parts here in Iowa, check Tall Corn Cruisers or the For Sale section here in MUD.

Good Luck,

 

[NellieFJ40]

Got the fsm (75 versions) from here on mud. Nice! Ill be contributing to get my star shortly.

Good advice to take my time. I just want to give everything a once over to know where I stand. My biggest concern is the trucks lack of desire to go over say 45 mph. It just sounds like rpms are really high at that speed. If I can get that addressed ill better be able to utilize and drive nellie around.

Im also in need of tires. I appear to have three different types of snow and ice tires on it. Ill have to peruse the faq for tire options. Hopefully I can keep the cost down and set myself up with a good tire for on road driving and light offroading.

 

[kylenine]

Spend a weekend buffing it out and waxing it. I can see there is a lot of oxidation and after spending a couple of hours buffing it out, the paint will look brand new.

Also, I would purchase the two front hubcaps if you dont already have them. And maybe track down the spare tire.

Its a beautiful rig, enjoy it

 

[White Stripe]

I would expect to spend around 6k if you take that to a body shop to paint likely more like 8k. Any less than that and I would be a bit worried as to what kind of work they will actually do. Yes just drain and fill the diffs and tranny and tcase, no flush. I would have the coolant totally flushed not just drain and fill. Maybe run some cleaner in it before you flush it. Lots of shops do coolant flushes and its tough for most shops to screw up. Check for leaks and write down where they are and add them to your list. The rear brakes should be checked out, you will likely need new wheel cylinders or rebuild them. At some point you will likely need to go through the front end and do seals pack bearings. Expect to spend about 2k minimum to have a shop do all this. Might be worth tow-dollying it to Colorado where lots of cruiser shops are to have this done.
I would just get it fairly reliable, drive it for a while, and that will help you determine what direction you want to take. If you don't have a lot of tools and mechanical skills you will have to shell out a lot of money. But if your smart and careful in how you spend you can have a sweet ride for less than a new heep. Do what you can yourself, but don't bite off more than you can chew, and keep an eye for used parts when you can. Sometimes though it is best to just buy new parts.

 

[NellieFJ40]

[QUOTE="White Stripe, post: 9147145, might be worth tow-dollying to colorado [/QUOTE]

Doh! Just had it trailered FROM colorado! Awesome info in your post white stripe. Thanks! After putting a few miles on I have noted some leaks underneath.

Im most concerned about this one. Thoughts:



front diff:



Is this the transfer case:

 

[Hogan]

Nice 40 congratulations. Looks like you have some seals to replace all normal stuff for something 38 years old. I don't know how far you are from St. Paul MN, but we have a great land cruiser shop just south of St. Paul. It's LCR4WD 651-695-1881 Steve (Poser here on Mud), if you are close enough and are not comfortable working on parts of your Land Cruiser give him a call. Side note, I would carry an extra fuel filter just in case you have some debris in the fuel tank. Enjoy it.

 

[ice man 1]

Welcome to Mud and welcome to your the new addiction. Is you can see, there are reasons why your aunt held the old girl in such affection. They are not economical, practical, or reasonable. No. They are a deliberate pleasure. And as you can see, you are not alone in the pursuit of that pleasure and the support you will need to endure the pains that go along with it. You happen to have some great resources nearby that will help you along the way.
It is amazing how a simple rig can make such a difference, but it does. From the simple things that happen on a trip to the hardware store, or your kids soccer match, to the reception you get on a cold winter morning at a café on a long solo road trip. And the outreach and support that you find in an obscure site on the otherwise busy internet affectionately called mud. Good to see you here, and good luck.
(There are a few of us close by to you here in Iowa. Look forward to seeing you around!)