All visible screws and it unclips. Not even sure how to describe
Where do we go from here? To replace my LX or not? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ClassyJalopy
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one screw at base of shift knob and pops off, smaller gear shift unscrews, shifter plate (pull up) and unclip, 6 ish phillips screws on the sides of the console (hidden by seats) and I believe (2) 10mm in the bottom of the center console pocket. easy peasy.
Don’t need to unscrew shift knob in 2001
- Thread starter
- #144
All visible screws and it unclips. Not even sure how to describe
Thanks guys! Surprisingly easy
So elaborate! What are your plans?
- Thread starter
- #146
For interior my plan is pretty straightforward:
- Seal up the three rusty holes
- Clean the floor and apply butyl based sound deadener. Especially the transmission hump and rear wheel humps
- Install closed cell foam to help with road noise
- Get the original carpet and panels back in
- Refinish the seats with the crack filler and dye and conditioner
- Maybe
- Refinish steering wheel
- Swap out the leather shifter with the wooden one
- Pull door cards and add insulation to the door skin
- Thread starter
- #147
Still waiting for the two body shops to get me an estimate on the fixes. Waiting is so hard!
You're way more determined than most people with that truck. I learned my lesson long ago about working on rusty POS. Just not worth it for me and the rust always comes back. I am dealing with a similar situation right now with my beloved GS430 that's been in the family for over 10 years. Such a clean car, we've put over 150k miles on it over the years, it's at about 240k now. Rear diff started leaking where it connects to the driveshaft, should be an easy fix but the exhaust would need to come off and it's ROTTED underneath, if I tried taking the exhaust off I would open a new can of worms and potentially add thousands to that repair, not worth it on a car with that much rust with maybe a $2,000 market value.
Sucks what these midwestern winters will do to these cars. Even worse, Toyota/Lexus is terrible with rust proofing their cars. I swear, even Honda is better in that department now. I've come to terms that if you want to have a nice vehicle here, you must winter store it. You can't undercoat everything, you're always gonna miss some area and at some point it will become a problem.
Sucks what these midwestern winters will do to these cars. Even worse, Toyota/Lexus is terrible with rust proofing their cars. I swear, even Honda is better in that department now. I've come to terms that if you want to have a nice vehicle here, you must winter store it. You can't undercoat everything, you're always gonna miss some area and at some point it will become a problem.
I’ve said it before and Now again.
It’s a Product from Canada. (The winter there makes The North East look like a Cool afternoon in Carolinas.) it’s called Krown. From my information search with a friend who works as a mechanic for a city Taking plow trucks apart- he said it is the best or one of the best products to stop (slow) corrosion. I guess it seeps into every crevice and eventually causes a layer of protection.
It attracts dirt and all that entails,Yet so what on a 4x4. It does not smell and Protection to electronic components as well is why I chose this to protect my Zero rust Fl 100.
If I did it again, I’d do the same- and after 3 years in the Salt rd’s of North East! I see no issues. Just saying- these vehicles go the distance and Rust is the only real issue.
It’s a Product from Canada. (The winter there makes The North East look like a Cool afternoon in Carolinas.) it’s called Krown. From my information search with a friend who works as a mechanic for a city Taking plow trucks apart- he said it is the best or one of the best products to stop (slow) corrosion. I guess it seeps into every crevice and eventually causes a layer of protection.
It attracts dirt and all that entails,Yet so what on a 4x4. It does not smell and Protection to electronic components as well is why I chose this to protect my Zero rust Fl 100.
If I did it again, I’d do the same- and after 3 years in the Salt rd’s of North East! I see no issues. Just saying- these vehicles go the distance and Rust is the only real issue.
- Thread starter
- #150
I hear ya on Toyota's inability to rust proof the metal well. You'd think that Tacoma/Tundra frame debacle would be educational for them!
This truck doesn't make any financial sense, and it isn't very rare either so make very little emotional sense since it is replaceable. But I have never claimed to be money-smart and this is now gotten to a point that I actually enjoy tinkering with it. I have no doubt that rust will eventually eat anything driven on winter roads in Midwest but this effort is to try and slow it down. I am also planning to look into Krown, Woolwax etc. etc. once things are under control.
Y'all know they still sell houses in the south, right?
- Thread starter
- #152
Midwest got a lot going for it. I am sure we can start a chit chat thread on it.
As for the development on my truck, I have now ruled out exhaust leaks and missing heat shields. Which means to protect the passenger side floor from outside heat, I will just need to lay down some insulation on the inside.
This is what I have bought but I am now having second thoughts - should I get foam layer thicker than 80mm? Perhaps @katit or @musthave would chime in?
Amazon product ASIN B012B5EMGOAmazon product ASIN B07TKXMPH7
Also, I really want to cover up the transmission hump. It is woefully devoid of padding and lets a lot of heat and noise inside.
Is any of the heat coming from the exhaust, do you think? I was debating some exhaust wrap near the fuel lines recently to help the gurgling at the fuel door and over-heating of the fuel lines. Wonder if it may be of some benefit to you here.
Also, I wonder if you're missing an insulation pad on the transmission tunnel. For some reason, I remember having something there on mine but I can't recall for sure. Regardless, yeah I think getting something on there will be a big help. Mine has a drink heater built into the cup holders that I wouldn't mind getting rid of...
Also, I wonder if you're missing an insulation pad on the transmission tunnel. For some reason, I remember having something there on mine but I can't recall for sure. Regardless, yeah I think getting something on there will be a big help. Mine has a drink heater built into the cup holders that I wouldn't mind getting rid of...
Noico 80mil is not 80mm. I am sure adding pad will help a lot with sound/heat but keep in mind it will add bulk.
The only reason I didn't do this 150mil foam (or similar) is because it may throw dimensions out and you won't get carpet correctly seat.
Center console - there is a lot of mounting and stuff going on. Adding something on top will interfere with other stuff. Air vents, etc.
Your heat issue - troubleshoot why, this is more important. Don't cover original issue.
The only reason I didn't do this 150mil foam (or similar) is because it may throw dimensions out and you won't get carpet correctly seat.
Center console - there is a lot of mounting and stuff going on. Adding something on top will interfere with other stuff. Air vents, etc.
Your heat issue - troubleshoot why, this is more important. Don't cover original issue.
- Thread starter
- #155
I hear ya. I have an IR thermometer on the way to check the actual temps at the cats and also planning to read fuel terms via Techstream
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
That tranny hump looks pretty normal/OEM to me
By the way, this part covered with glued foam cup in my truck. For sure to battle noise
- Thread starter
- #158
Definitely seen worse! Keep on with your rejuvenated 100... it’s fine man. Wire wheel it and treat it to Krown !
Ps - Not saying it’s pretty or preferred- Yet once you saturate it with Krown it will all be nicer looking, help with turning bolts and it will not get worse!
