NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Until it bites you in the ass eh?
Builds When your inner voice speaks, you need to listen. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SHIfTHEAD
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Best dogs I ever had were the unloved ones. I'm expecting no less from this old truck. I've even named him FeO <"FeeOh">.Until it bites you in the ass eh?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
@SHIfTHEAD how does that converter dry? Black color? How much time to dry? I have the liquid ospho which gets sprayed on and drys in a day or so but it gets a funky powdery white layer which I’m guessing is from the phosphorus.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Both my dogs were rescued.
Rescue dogs and rescue Cruisers are the best!
- Thread starter
- #86
It dries to a hard black finish, like a flat black paint. If you put it on too thick it can take a long time, but I've only had this happen when I clearly put it on WAY too thick, and it's just down in the crevices that are still not fully dry (and it was cold). Usually within a couple of hours it's mostly dry to the touch. But I usually put another thin coat on just to be sure. Trying to weld through it is like going through rattle can paint. If you can get started it will burn off as you go, but breaking through is the only hard part.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
So you clean up your rusty edges, cut what’s necessary then weld? I thought it was nessary to bring your metal edges down to a clean shiny surface before welding?
And I thought many rust converters are meant to go on metal not so shiny clean of rust right?
Kinda a catch 22?
And I thought many rust converters are meant to go on metal not so shiny clean of rust right?
Kinda a catch 22?
- Thread starter
- #88
All true. I tried welding through it once thinking it wasn't as durable as it was. Now I cut away bad metal, Rust Convert, build the patch then clear off all the edges with a flap disc before welding. While you can weld through it, it leaves an ugly mess that needs more grinding afterwards.
As I understand it, rust converters rely on some Ferrous Oxide to be present for the chemical reaction to take place. However Rust Converter Ultra also dries and seals bare metal. You will see the difference; the area with rust will be jet black and the clean metal will be somewhat opaque with the metal visible through the dried converter.
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- Thread starter
- #89
Almost done with the drivers side rear roof.
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You're making me look like a complete bitch for storing a rust free roof for almost two years now to swap onto mine where the roof isn't a quarter as bad as that 
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I think he has just about all of us like that i have two rust spots replace a door that i already have and fix some bent up metal all of witch i am capable of doing but haven't in 3 years..... get back to work @SHIfTHEADYou're making me look like a complete bitch for storing a rust free roof for almost two years now to swap onto mine where the roof isn't a quarter as bad as that
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I think he has just about all of us like that i have two rust spots replace a door that i already have and fix some bent up metal all of witch i am capable of doing but haven't in 3 years..... get back to work @SHIfTHEADYou're making me look like a complete bitch for storing a rust free roof for almost two years now to swap onto mine where the roof isn't a quarter as bad as that
- Thread starter
- #93
@cruisermatt and @tmxmotorsports it helps to have a truck that is totally fubar'd to start with, sort of. I can't make it worse, I can only make it look just as bad or better. This is a good one to learn how to work on sheet metal, that's for damn sure!
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
Still in awe.
Easy would have been a parts truck
Hard would have been making it a convertible soft top
Ridiculous (in a good way) it what you are doing
Easy would have been a parts truck
Hard would have been making it a convertible soft top
Ridiculous (in a good way) it what you are doing
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
This is always my motto. Anything I do (almost) is better than what I started with.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Excellent work. Times like these make me really glad I have an FRP top.
- Joined
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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
Can you post up some close ups of the gutter rail where you reattached it in that corner? Did you remake it or just clean up and reuse the original?
- Thread starter
- #99
I've welded in floorboards before, and patched the lower front of my '77 Fiat 124 Spider front fender, but I've never attempted anything like this before. I've been around people who have been doing it and I observed them very carefully while asking questions. What I learned is: "don't screw up, but if you do screw up just cut it out and start again". Knowing the shortcuts to building patches helps (painters tape and a sharpy) and understanding how the welds will contract as they cool helps (I need to drill a couple holes in the roof above to add some welds where I ground through some surface welds). So doing the rust repairs on the Fiat was a steep learning curve.
Started with just a flux wire welder; bad idea. Then bought a true Mig from Northern tool as they changed their branding over to Klutch so I got a NT branded Mig (said to be built by Hobart) and was welding with it for around $500 after all was said and done. Then learning about 035 vs 023 wire and heat settings. So doing the floorboards in that car taught me a lot. Esp since the steel on the Fiat is really thin. Add any rust and it will burn through almost instantly.
Add to all that the fact that I inherited a ton of sheet metal tools from a family friend who moved to New Zealand a few years back. Having a real sheet metal brake is priceless. Having real planishing hammers (of various types) and associated dolly's is a huge help too. I'm still a full blown amateur, but having the tools makes all the difference. And like I said, if I screw it up, just start over.
joseywales
Renaissance Redneck
And people think I’m crazy! My 4Runner only needed some wheel well and rocker love. Barely a 2 day job!
You are gettin’ after it!
You are gettin’ after it!
