What you need to know about 100 series aftermarket wheel options (3 Viewers)

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You can upload the model above to a site like Shapeways and they'll print it for you. They can definitely do it cheaper than me. I would have to sell them for $150 to make it worth the time/material/wear and tear on the printer (this material is hard on nozzles).
Cool. Thank you. This will be my first time using Shapeways so it will be an experience!
 
Just a quick update for anyone printing the cap extensions. I reprinted the Method wheel cap extensions in NylonX with Carbon Fiber for some extra durability. They turned out much better than the previous PETG prints.
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On the left are the previous PETG prints. Not bad, but a little glossy and you could see the layer lines. They also would snap tabs off if you weren't careful installing them. The new ones on the right are right out of the printer - no sanding or anything needed. Zero lines, nice matte textured finish, and the Nylon+CF is WAY tougher. It's also more resistant to heat and chemicals. They should last a lifetime.
Awesome finish on those extenders!!! :cheers: Now I need some used Methods because I can't afford new ones...:banana:
 
I don't want to confuse people so I want to clarify some of your post.

1. Wheel size does effect rubbing the fender. Yes, it can cause contact on both inside on suspension parts but it equally effects the outside. Example: if you have a 8 inch wheel at +25 offset and a 9 inch wheel at +25 offset you will be a half inch closer to the control arm and a half inch closer to the fender.

2. +25 as a safe size and centering the tire in the wheel well is not quite accurate. Where I sit at a +20 is only .196 inches closer to the fender. Less than a quarter of an inch is negligible in my opinion.

3. As stated above in my other post you can run a shorter wider set up as you suggest. Your 285 size is about an inch shorter and a +25 wheel moves you in less than a quarter inch and the tire is wider by a little over a quarter inch. This should work and be close.

4. A +10 or +0 will guarantee fender contact with a 33 inch option.

5. Running a 275/70/18 has never been an issue on stock wheels. The offset of the wheel is optimal and is the only offset that centers the wheel in the wheel well. It can run a much wider size and still have no issue as well. This is why aftermarket is not optimal and stock is.

6. A 325/70/18 is a totally different animal. It is tall enough under full compression with the front wheels turned to contact the front fender and bend it. The only way to avoid it is a body lift. That would go for any 35 inch plus option not to mention rubbing inside and outside without offset mods.

7. The 200 series suffers similar issues at +20 with the 9 inch wheel and a 285. It will rub.
For #5, "running a wider size" than 275/70/18 would be something like 285/70/18? Would that tire size be okay?
 
Best looking truck I've seen. Are these wheels good to go once you buy them, can you slap them right on your 100 Land Cruiser?
Same question. No spacers needed?
 
Best looking truck I've seen. Are these wheels good to go once you buy them, can you slap them right on your 100 Land Cruiser?

Same question. No spacers needed?

+5 is getting pretty low offset for a 100 series especially if you are going off road. I would assume the bumpers really help with clearance on that truck. Many people running 0 offset have issues with the tires making contact with the fenders during articulation.
 
The more research I do, the more I'm leaning Braid wheels like @suprarx7nut 's. Otherwise seems like it's a couple of offerings from Method, having to run spacers bc of hub issues, or too much poke bc 0 offset.
 
The more research I do, the more I'm leaning Braid wheels like @suprarx7nut 's. Otherwise seems like it's a couple of offerings from Method, having to run spacers bc of hub issues, or too much poke bc 0 offset.

Getting that offset where you want it is the most important step! I love the Braids years later. Uncommon and great looking. 10/10 experience.
 
Hey y'all....I just read through all ten pages....yes all ten pages of this thread. I feel like I could make a chart now with all the numbers.

So, factory for my year /origin, is a 275/65/r17 60mm.

I have 2" body lift in.

I am now trying to source 17"x8.5"...and at least 10, possibly up to 35.

I am up in Can. So the task of even finding wheels, is even more difficult + expensive.

703's come in +35...so this seems like an option

found a Black Rhino with +10

also looking at Nomad in a 17"x8.5 +25
 
The more research I do, the more I'm leaning Braid wheels like @suprarx7nut 's. Otherwise seems like it's a couple of offerings from Method, having to run spacers bc of hub issues, or too much poke bc 0 offset.

Hey y'all....I just read through all ten pages....yes all ten pages of this thread. I feel like I could make a chart now with all the numbers.
So, factory for my year /origin, is a 275/65/r17 60mm.
I have 2" body lift in.
I am now trying to source 17"x8.5"...and at least 10, possibly up to 35.
I am up in Can. So the task of even finding wheels, is even more difficult + expensive.
703's come in +35...so this seems like an option
found a Black Rhino with +10
also looking at Nomad in a 17"x8.5 +25

Looked through this thread and not sure why they havent really been mentioned but ICON Wheels makes quite a few options that fit the 100 Series very well. I have Icon Compression wheels on my truck in 17X8.5 with +25 offset and they fit great.

ICON Rebound, Anza, Hulse, Nuevo, Recon, Six Speed, Thrust and Vector 5 all come in that same 17X8.5 - +25 offset - 110mm bore fitment. You may have to space out the center cap if you want to run it but thats not that big of a deal IMO. My 100 with ICON Compression wheels and 285/70/17 BFG KO2's. No wheel spacer, just a center cap spacer from Delta Vehicle Systems
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10-inch wide wheels are ‘usually’ available in 15s and 16s wheels but I haven’t personally seen one on a 17 or 18. If there is, that is likely a bespoke one-off wheel. 20-inch wheels definitely have 10-inch wide specs but I don’t think it’s a popular option for us here in the forums. +25ET (lowest) and +35ET (highest) is the best offset for the 100 in my opinion, it’s practical with little pinch welds work and good for maximized articulation, it also doesn’t poke out that much for any tire size may it be 33s, 34s and even 35s upto 12.5” wide tires. But then again it all boils down to your preference.

For reference here is mine sitting on 18x9 +25ET on 35x12.5s AT tires on mild AHC sensor lift with Japan4x4 strut spacer mod.
IMG_8076.jpeg

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Wheels are called Echo manufactured by AlphaEquipt.
 
Looked through this thread and not sure why they havent really been mentioned but ICON Wheels makes quite a few options that fit the 100 Series very well. I have Icon Compression wheels on my truck in 17X8.5 with +25 offset and they fit great.

ICON Rebound, Anza, Hulse, Nuevo, Recon, Six Speed, Thrust and Vector 5 all come in that same 17X8.5 - +25 offset - 110mm bore fitment. You may have to space out the center cap if you want to run it but thats not that big of a deal IMO. My 100 with ICON Compression wheels and 285/70/17 BFG KO2's. No wheel spacer, just a center cap spacer from Delta Vehicle SystemsView attachment 3865595


I think the issue is just because Icon says bore is 110mm, that doesn't mean that it's not tapered and we won't need a spacer to clear the hub. A member here already confirmed that spacers were needed for the Vector 5's unfortunately.
 
I think the issue is just because Icon says bore is 110mm, that doesn't mean that it's not tapered and we won't need a spacer to clear the hub. A member here already confirmed that spacers were needed for the Vector 5's unfortunately.

So far these are the only ones I have heard people having an issue with. As someone who has had a bunch of modified cars, enlarging the center bore to desired spec or cutting a recess for the hub etc. is really not that big of a deal.
 
Heard back from Dissent on their post, these are apparently Icon Recon's.

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