What weight oil for 1978 FJ40 2F

[Landlover12]

So many different options people are talking about. I want to pick up the right stuff!

Is this the right stuff???? Also do I need any additive?

 

[charliemeyer007]

What do you know about your engine? How many miles/hours on the clock? Dry/wet compression #'s says a lot about your engine with oil pressure and vacuum #'s plus reading the spark plugs.

Old engines don't do well with full synthetic oil - it cleans out everything and then stuff is loose. If I ever get a new engine I would run the full synthetic and I would install a pre-oiler and a really good oil filter system.

Changing oil/filter often is way cheaper than a new engine. New stuff doesn't even have a dip stick so you can check the oil/level - planned obsolesce - just buy a new rig is what they want. You no worky on truck and we can turn it off when ever we want...

 

[OlYellr]

I rebuilt my engine little over a year ago and use Driven 15w-40 it has higher zinc content like oil did back then for the flat tappet cams.

Real or marketing? got me - also not running a cat converter either

 

[dazerb]

What does the Haynes/FSM say? IIRC, my 74 1.5 F takes 5w30 and specifies Castrol. I also add a bottle of ZDDP at every change. There are NUMEROUS threads/debates on Mud. Google is your friend.

 

[brian]

This and the filter question question, will get you as many different answers, as people replying. There is no "the best" to either.
The answer to both is, yes you need oil and an oil filter...as long both are NIB and not used, you'll be fine.

 

[Grayscale]

That Delo 400 XLE SB is basically diesel oil. It will work in gasoline engines, but it isn't up to modern oil standards - API SP. The SP-designation can be conventional or full synthetic. I'm fairly certain that more 'zinc' isn't going to help the 2F tractor motor - it was more relevant five or ten years ago. Apparently, the new detergents in the modern SP-oil formulas are not as harsh on the beficicial-to-wear-resistance ZDDP deposits, so the 'zinc' stays on the cam lobes and tappets, but, the oil still keeps varnish from depositing. I admit that I watch maybe a bit too much Motor Oil Geek on YouTube.

Just addressing the thread, directly, 15W is basically a summer-viscosity, 40 is a summer-viscosity also. I can upload the chart from the Owner's Manual if you'd like? The five functions of motor oil are to seal, lubricate, clean, cool, and prevent corrosion. With an oil that is too viscous it might contribute to upper engine wear during startup. Also, it might also create a deposit in the combustion chamber and ring landings by not being scavenged properly off of the cylinder wall by the non-performance-type tension of the piston rings, leading to failure of ring-function and loss of compression.

 

[Landlover12]

What do you know about your engine? How many miles/hours on the clock? Dry/wet compression #'s says a lot about your engine with oil pressure and vacuum #'s plus reading the spark plugs.

Old engines don't do well with full synthetic oil - it cleans out everything and then stuff is loose. If I ever get a new engine I would run the full synthetic and I would install a pre-oiler and a really good oil filter system.

Changing oil/filter often is way cheaper than a new engine. New stuff doesn't even have a dip stick so you can check the oil/level - planned obsolesce - just buy a new rig is what they want. You no worky on truck and we can turn it off when ever we want...

Truck has about 53,000 miles on it. Have not done a compression test on it just yet but it runs like a champ.

Just want to know what if this is the right stuff. So many people have so many different suggestions

I’m inclined to buy this Del0 15-40

 

[Landlover12]

I plan to throw a bottle of this in as well

https://a.co/d/dyJU4o2

 

[Grayscale]

ZDDP reacts with iron, like oxygen...

 

[Landlover12]

Oh dam, way more to it than I thought. Even more undecided on the right oil and additive to buy!

 

[71-CRUISER]

Rotella T 15-40

 

[Grayscale]

Oh dam, way more to it than I thought. Even more undecided on the right oil and additive to buy!

My 2F has tested low for compression. That tells me that I have leaks at the valves or thru the rings, or that the valves are congested to the point that it compromises the intake-stroke. It also consumes oil, albeit much less that when I first got it.

The things that I feel are important about oil are viscosity, application (type of engine), and change-intervals. With just what is important, I can find an 5W-30 (cold driving), API SP-type non-synthetic oil. I can affordably change the oil every four months, or about 300 to 500-miles, and do a filter change once-a-year.

I just bought some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30. My hope is that the new technology will clean ring landings. I'm hoping that the new synthetic oils do not have the same sealing issues that ester-based oils from long ago created, but, I've not totally sure about this one. I'm hoping that it will not clog an oil-filter, as it is kinda an oil-flush. I'm hoping that I'll get better compression and vacuum. I'm hoping that it removes varnish, but, not ZDDP-deposits. It is a new product, so who knows about it and this old engine? However, my motor is basically due for a rebuild when I installed it, or the rings were stuck to the pistons. I'm playing my cards like it is basically a varnish-related issue with the piston rings. My compression improved after a few months of clean oil and fresh gasoline. I use additives in the fuel (Techron, etc.), but, no additives in the oil. Oil already has additives, you can see it, as all base-oils are clear.

 

[pb4ugo]

You'll never get a definitive answer, just like that video. It's sort of like opinions. I don't do additives in my oil or gas. I no longer run the stk 40's 6 cylinders, but run 1st gen sbc's, both engines have flat tappet cams. I stay away from synthetic oils. When these engines were designed, synthetic's weren't around. I run the same brand and weight oil in my engines except for my 2014 camry, which gets its recommended synthetic oil and likes burning it. It's a high mileage vehicle. Evidently Toyota changed its definition of excessive oil consumption as a result, so they didn't have to address the issue.

 

[Landlover12]

Okay what im going to do is run non synthetic 5W-30 in the winter and non synthetic 15-40 in the summer. No fuel or oil additives unless you can steer me!

Also going to run a Toyota filter https://a.co/d/4uXMdTD

 

[Pighead]

my recipe.

 

[Landlover12]

my recipe.

View attachment 3802922

Thanks for sharing

 

[77mustard40]

Here’s a little light reading… but seriously it’s 2F so pick any quality oil with a viscosity that agrees with the temps where live and roll

540 RAT - Tech Facts, NOT Myths

540ratblog.wordpress.com

 

[ace10]

Why would this particular thread collect any more relevant information than the dozens upon dozens that have come before it?

Search is your friend. This site has been around for more than two decades. The institutional knowledge contained herein is beyond amazing. And can answer virtually any common question you could possible ask.

Also, create a signature so your fellow mudders know exactly which vehicle you own.


Sorry, but it has to be said.

 

[Grayscale]

Why would this particular thread collect any more relevant information than the dozens upon dozens that have come before it?

Because, oil has changed. API-SP was new to 2020.

The forum is actually a forum. We are not creating entries in an encyclopedia, and questions get asked and answered different every time.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Who paid for the study? Butter coffee good, butter coffee bad for you. I'm sure the oil and motor police have the same issues.

I like the newer shorter thread to read rather than wade threw 4000 pages to see what's been said/covered but that's just me.