What type of oil is recommended for 1974 1F motor? It's about mid 80s to 95 degrees out here in Missouri now.
I appreciate the guidance
I appreciate the guidance
What type of oil is recommended for 1974 1F motor? It's about mid 80s to 95 degrees out here in Missouri now.
- Thread starter dplenty99
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Regular 10w30, add some zinc additive which you can buy at any big box store
Not intending to open a can of worms, but Rotella T6 15w-40 synthetic is relatively inexpensive, readily available and has high zinc for our old flat tappet engines.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
Is the Rotella the diesel kind even for unleaded? Link below
Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com
Buy Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Yes.
Zinc.
Zinc.
Yes, "Diesel Engine Oil" is on the label, but after doing some research, it seems to also work well for older, flat tappet gasoline engines. Not many new oils out there have much zinc in them as high zinc is not recommended for catalytic converters.Is the Rotella the diesel kind even for unleaded? Link below
Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon - Walmart.com
Buy Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon at Walmart.comwww.walmart.com
You could go the zinc additive route, as mentioned above, but Rotella T6 seemed a better way to go for my purposes.
So far so good on my desmogged 79 2F, but you'll want to do your own research. Lots of different opinions out there.
Lots of opinions out there for sure, but I figure the folks that still professionally build and support these engines likely know best. My '74 is running a 2F that was rebuilt by Portland Engine Rebuilders in 2021. They state that using oil with no zinc content voids their warranty. Here's the literature they provided that explains why:
I realize yours is 1F, but here's my internet anecdotal N+1...
When going through all fluids in the new-to-me 2F last week for warm/hot temps I wanted at least 1100ppm zinc in non synthetic. Went down the online rabbit hole (that was a life timesuck of epic proportion, ha) and also asked the belt & suspender crowd at Pop's weekly breakfast. They suggested 10w40 or 15w40 from Rotella and Valvoline. The 20w50 VR1 for very hot temps did not elicit arguing from anyone.
When going through all fluids in the new-to-me 2F last week for warm/hot temps I wanted at least 1100ppm zinc in non synthetic. Went down the online rabbit hole (that was a life timesuck of epic proportion, ha) and also asked the belt & suspender crowd at Pop's weekly breakfast. They suggested 10w40 or 15w40 from Rotella and Valvoline. The 20w50 VR1 for very hot temps did not elicit arguing from anyone.
brian
SILVER Star
it has zinc in it, but i wouldnt say it has alot of zinc in it.....that was reduced 10 or 15 years ago.
I just did a quick search of recent articles. Most suggest Rotella T6 still has around 1200ppm zinc.
- Thread starter
- #11
Is there such a thing as adding too much oil to the valve cover?
- Thread starter
- #12
Nevermind. Dumbest question ever
Get some valvoline 20w50 VR1. Has a good amount of zinc, somewhere about 1300-1500ppm. And it's thick too so its really good in the heat. I noticed a slight audible difference going from 15w40 to the 20w50. I run it winter time and summer time. From 19 degree weather to 107 degree summers.
Last edited:
In my 68 F I run Shell Alvainia 15w40. It’s the T4 mineral based oil (I don’t run synthetics, not designed for it). It’s ok up to 90 then after a good run, idle oil pressure drops to about 10 psi. Which is OK but I think I’ll be switching to 20w50 for summer and the Shell in the winter. I drive the beast several days a week to work….and the stop and go in the summer is rough on it…that’s when I see the lowest oil pressure at idle. However, at 2000 rpm, it’s back to 35 to 40…..just don’t like the idle oil pressure.
I’ve had better luck with Kendall GT-1 20w50 in my air cooled antiques than the VR-1. I order the Kendall through Amozon by the case. It has a slightly better viscosity index than the VR-1. I think it performs the same as straight 30w…..that’s what I used to run before the restoration and never really gave a thought to oil pressure.
I’ve had better luck with Kendall GT-1 20w50 in my air cooled antiques than the VR-1. I order the Kendall through Amozon by the case. It has a slightly better viscosity index than the VR-1. I think it performs the same as straight 30w…..that’s what I used to run before the restoration and never really gave a thought to oil pressure.
There are lots of good motor oils, hardly any bad ones. There is no one best oil to rule them all, otherwise we'd all be using that and there would be no discussions like this.
So, it depends. How old is your engine and it's bearings and oilpump? How do you drive your rig? How is your oilpressure now? In numbers. If it's hot outside I like thicker oil.
I started with a '74 late F engine and ran pretty much every brand of oil through it. It's not really picky, pretty much whatever is on sale is good enough.
So, it depends. How old is your engine and it's bearings and oilpump? How do you drive your rig? How is your oilpressure now? In numbers. If it's hot outside I like thicker oil.
I started with a '74 late F engine and ran pretty much every brand of oil through it. It's not really picky, pretty much whatever is on sale is good enough.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
2nd @Pighead ‘s comments. If you want to geek out, these are the geeks who make a career out of lubrication. Lubrication Fundamentals - https://www.stle.org/files/TLTArchives/2022/07_July/Lubrication_Fundamentals.aspx
My motor is old and worn enough it’s probably spending a lot of time in the boundary condition area, so the lubrication additives like zinc mentioned are probably a good thing. And also with the wear I know I’m getting a fair bit of blowby so I use the diesel oils mentioned because of their detergent and dispersant additives, and the zinc.
My motor is old and worn enough it’s probably spending a lot of time in the boundary condition area, so the lubrication additives like zinc mentioned are probably a good thing. And also with the wear I know I’m getting a fair bit of blowby so I use the diesel oils mentioned because of their detergent and dispersant additives, and the zinc.
