What part of the car do you hate? Any advice on how others should handle their worst nightmare parts? (1 Viewer)

fjc-man

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Living in the Past

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The gas tank. It must have a mystery hole somewhere that all the fuel leaks out of every 150 miles or so.

Shortly after joining Mud I bought a 100 series. Remember a thread in the 100 series section about what people were doing to get better mileage. Things like type of fuel, removing rear jumps and adjusting the crossbars on the roof rack. Something has never changed on the Land Cruiser over the years. If your concerned about mileage you bought the wrong vehicle.
 

fjc-man

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Your metal repairs are way better than most. Anyone else would have thrown that windshield frame in the trash heap and shopped for one in better shape.
 
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Your metal repairs are way better than most. Anyone else would have thrown that windshield frame in the trash heap and shopped for one in better shape.
Harder to do in the Netherlands.

Even in Canada, a small $10 part becomes a $65 part after shipping, handling, and duties.

Michael has done some amazing work. I wish I had the time, energy, skills, and tools to duplicate the things he’s doing.
 
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Shortly after joining Mud I bought a 100 series. Remember a thread in the 100 series section about what people were doing to get better mileage. Things like type of fuel, removing rear jumps and adjusting the crossbars on the roof rack. Something has never changed on the Land Cruiser over the years. If your concerned about mileage you bought the wrong vehicle.
Funny thing is that I’ve got a mechanical valve that controls the fuel leak. If I’m careful I can go 400+ miles before the fuel leaks out of the tanks. I’ve even gone 1500 miles before the $120 USD worth of gas all leaked out in 27 hours... I still haven’t figured out how that happened,
 
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Rear drum brakes - '78 model. I learned the hard way that you must adjust them so tightly that the drum will barely go on, or barely turn, or you will get no pedal at all. Also, until the new shoes are fully bedded in (and touching the drum across the whole shoe) you need to frequently adjust them - like every other day. Just an old-school pain.
 
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After buying my FJ40 knowing the speedometer didn't work I discovered the hard way the fuel gauge didn't either (it worked on the top half of the tank, and never went below 1/2 full).
And then the hand brake got loose enough it stopped working.
All three were things I didn't like dealing with, but one day I decided to jump in.
PO let the speedometer and handbrake cable rest on the exhaust!!!!
New speedo cable, first try from the parts bin was 1/2 inch too short, so I bought a new one several inches longer than that and made it easy to connect (and as commented earlier, removing the battery cable, at least the negative, before pulling the cluster is best practice).
And then found I could adjust the parking brake turning one bolt.
But, the PO's roll cage that I'm still adamant about keeping has a bar across the top of the gas tank cover and took hours to remove all the bolts and lift that thing out without bashing anything (seats are mounted to the cage also). And with the amount of goop stuck all over the top of the sending unit, I didn't want to try and replace through just the access hole in the tank cover (due to incorrect venting, the tank always smelled pretty bad and obviously the PO thought applying more goop was the solution). But at least by fully removing, inspecting and cleaning I was able to correct the venting, and not only does the fuel gauge work but it smells better.
I still hate working on exhaust. And while moving the speedo and brake cables realized the PO welded the hangers together, instead of using a rubber isolator...
 
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Looks like the biggest issue with the 40 in general is the PO.🧐
Lets hope we will all be PO’s too as it will be part of the legend called Land Cruiser.
Naw, biggest issue is RUST!!!

But if I ever sell mine, next owner's going to be looking at the wiring and cussing me for sure. It was all done for the sake of improved functionality, I swear. Relays for the headlights, alternator with more than 30 amps, etc. I find it all simple to understand and troubleshoot, I really don't care about the next guy.
 

Purpleaction

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I agree PO can be biggest issue. I left my first 40 in much better shape than when I received it. I documented every oil change, light bulb, emblem, ground wire, starter, etc. so that the guy who bought it from me knows where he stands. In the short time that I have been involved with the 40 I have realized we owners are merely caretakers. We might sell it or leave it to a family member but one day it will change hands. I’m gonna a leave it better than it was when I took ownership of it. ( (upgrades and mods for functionality excluded) Same way with my house, or anything else that I own.
 

ToyotaMatt

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GEAR OIL ANYTHING !

I cant stand the smell like rotten Onions

Screw that stuff and smell too , serious screw it , i wear a tyvek suit and trash everything after ............

1598318649457.jpeg
 

65swb45

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I have a hard time adjusting the rear drum brakes. I also hate having to pull and replace the speedometer gage cluster. Have found that disconnecting the Speedo cable from down below gives you a little more slack. I haven’t had any luck sticking my hand up from the back and disconnecting to that way.
This should only be a problem the first time. I make a point of using a file or a high speed carbide bit to open up the pedal bucket to where I can tilt the cluster forward without kinking the cable.;):idea:
 

RWBeringer4x4

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Naw, biggest issue is RUST!!!

But if I ever sell mine, next owner's going to be looking at the wiring and cussing me for sure. It was all done for the sake of improved functionality, I swear. Relays for the headlights, alternator with more than 30 amps, etc. I find it all simple to understand and troubleshoot, I really don't care about the next guy.
^^^ I am also this guy - amp gauge “bypassed” (wire cut) due to too much alternator (it would melt the gauge). Headlight relays - 350 stuff spliced in wherever needed, home made fusible links. I’m no electromagician but it all works, most of the time.

This should only be a problem the first time. I make a point of using a file or a high speed carbide bit to open up the pedal bucket to where I can tilt the cluster forward without kinking the cable.;):idea:
^^^ This is the second time I’ve seen the term “pedal bucket.” What is this and where do I cut (my dash is currently out). That said I didn’t struggle too much getting the dash out - it was tight but not so tight I couldn’t get my hand back there to disconnect the speed cable. Maybe I just have dainty lady hands?

If it truly has to do with the pedals how does it conflict with the speedo cable? Or is the cut just so you can gain access from underneath?
 

ToyotaMatt

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This is in my future too - the speedometer stopped working and I’ve been dragging my feet to figure out why because I know I’ll need to pull the cluster, and I’m dreading it.
Before you pull the cluster, disconnect the battery to avoid more issues.
After buying my FJ40 knowing the speedometer didn't work I discovered the hard way the fuel gauge didn't either (it worked on the top half of the tank, and never went below 1/2 full).
And then the hand brake got loose enough it stopped working.
All three were things I didn't like dealing with, but one day I decided to jump in.
PO let the speedometer and handbrake cable rest on the exhaust!!!!
New speedo cable, first try from the parts bin was 1/2 inch too short, so I bought a new one several inches longer than that and made it easy to connect (and as commented earlier, removing the battery cable, at least the negative, before pulling the cluster is best practice).
And then found I could adjust the parking brake turning one bolt.
But, the PO's roll cage that I'm still adamant about keeping has a bar across the top of the gas tank cover and took hours to remove all the bolts and lift that thing out without bashing anything (seats are mounted to the cage also). And with the amount of goop stuck all over the top of the sending unit, I didn't want to try and replace through just the access hole in the tank cover (due to incorrect venting, the tank always smelled pretty bad and obviously the PO thought applying more goop was the solution). But at least by fully removing, inspecting and cleaning I was able to correct the venting, and not only does the fuel gauge work but it smells better.
I still hate working on exhaust. And while moving the speedo and brake cables realized the PO welded the hangers together, instead of using a rubber isolator...

i personally carefully remove both the L shape Feet or small Tabs on the bottom of any 40 series cluster i install , or remove then have to re-install

why ?


because , then theirs no tilt it out and cut your hand sticking it up the peddle bucket filled with Vietnam sharp springs and jagged metal ..

it becomes a in and out straight operation

the two 6mm taper V head chrome machine screws Perfectly align it back it , so what the h#ll are they even for ..........?


never seen a bad reason NOT to Dremmle them off ......... :)
 
Joined
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i personally carefully remove both the L shape Feet or small Tabs on the bottom of any 40 series cluster i install , or remove then have to re-install

why ?


because , then theirs no tilt it out and cut your hand sticking it up the peddle bucket filled with Vietnam sharp springs and jagged metal ..

it becomes a in and out straight operation

the two 6mm taper V head chrome machine screws Perfectly align it back it , so what the h#ll are they even for ..........?


never seen a bad reason NOT to Dremmle them off ......... :)
All they seem to do is scratch the dash when they’re getting in the way.
 

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