What motor oil type and weight do you use? (10 Viewers)

What motor oil weight do you use in your 200 series land cruiser?

  • 0w-20

    Votes: 147 61.0%
  • 0-w30

    Votes: 9 3.7%
  • 5w-20

    Votes: 18 7.5%
  • 5w-30

    Votes: 60 24.9%
  • 0w-40

    Votes: 5 2.1%
  • Thicker...

    Votes: 2 0.8%

  • Total voters
    241

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What is the benefit of using 0w-20 over 5w-20 in a place like Los Angeles where it rarely ever gets below 40 degrees?

Like he said it's spec for it .. it has the special additives. I ended up looking around and it's available cheep at walmart.
FYI these oils have a shelf life of5 years so if you find a sale you can keep that in mind.

TRD had a sale on the filters at 40% of .. so you can find deals on those also.

If you head up to Big Bear in the winter it's cooler up there.
 
Just my two cents, but I finally decided to switch from Mobil 1 0w-20 to Mobil 1 0w-30. Reasoning: When changing the oil (Mobil 1 5w-30) in my 2006 100 series with the 4.7 at 5000 miles, the oil looks really good. However, when changing the oil (Mobil 1 0W-20) in my 2013 200 series with the 5.7 at 5000 miles it looks really BAD. I have like many of you read 100's of Forums about OIL for the 3UR-FE and MY conclusion is 0W-30 oil is okay to use. The owners manual specifically states that a higher weight oil may be better suited for severe conditions. I am not replying on this thread to justify my decision or entice others to do the same. However, for those of you interested I will report back after my next oil change. It just may be that the 2UZ-FE may just be easier on the oil?


After several oil changes, I believe the Mobil 1 0w-30 oil looks somewhat better when changing, but still doesn't look as good as the 5w-30 from the 4.7. I really think the 0w-30 oil is a good fit as gaigin and Edino pointed out the specs from other countries. If the US manual indicates 0w-20 and the fact a heavier weight can be used, and other countries manual's indicates 5w-30...I really don't see how this oil would not be the perfect match. Again, just my reasoning which is NOT scientific. As a note, I have additionally began using the 0w-30 in my daughter's 2.5 Camry which has helped with the "piston slap" on startup.
 
Don't buy into the extended oil changes. Read your manual. My Land Cruiser Warranty and Maintenance Guide and refers to "Special Operating Conditions". 5,000 miles is the limit.

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tempImageAKK7b8.png
 
Don't buy into the extended oil changes. Read your manual. My Land Cruiser Warranty and Maintenance Guide and refers to "Special Operating Conditions". 5,000 miles is the limit.

.View attachment 2789644
10k miles for normal driving. 5k if you tow a bunch, drive offroad a lot, or spend most of your time idling in the city. That said I sent an oil sample to Blackstone after 6500 miles of heavy heavy use (half of it towing with the engine revving 3k RPMs, several hundred miles on offroad trails, and the rest pure city stop-and-go in Chicago with very limited warm-up periods) and the analysis showed sufficient TBN that they recommended running it 8000 miles next time and sending in another sample. Oh yeah and I'm on 34s, hadn't re-geared yet, and I've got crappy aero.

I don't think I'd go 20k miles for normal driving, no matter what the oil says, but if you're a typical suburban driver 10k miles is perfectly fine. Based on what I've seen I do mine every 6k, which tends to be June and September given how I drive.
 
When "we" got our LC's did anyone read the warranty book regarding the Special Operating Conditions language? IMHO, it could be a good way out a warranty claim.

5K always no matter what. I've got 2 cars with over 200,000K on them and that's been SOP since new. Since neither one is worth much I keep them serviced and in top condition. One is an old pre-DEF in-line 6 MB diesel that gets an effortless 45mpg on the road. I don't drive 65mph to get that either. Best interstate road car I've owned. The torque is there all the time and at highway speeds it will dust my LC. Heck, it'll smoke it (literally) from a stoplight.
As far as extended oil changes go, Ford is having issues with the EcoBoost phasers (VVT) that seem to be linked to this. Happens around 70,000 and it's no walk in the park to repair. Good YouTube videos out there.
 
0w-20, asians in white lab coats probably know best.

What if I told you fat corporate bureaucrats in ill fitting suits made that decision instead?

This thread was extremely frustrating to read. Even when presented with evidence people will fall back on tropes. I don’t know what is driving some of your decisions here other than perhaps a false ideal of American exceptionalism. If your climate is like Russia, check that regions owners manual, if your climate is like the Middle East, look there. If your climate is like mine, run 0W in the winter and 5W in the summer. The engine is indentical in all these various markets.

I run 5W-30 in the summer here. AT NO POINT THIS SUMMER IN AUSTIN DID MY ENGINE EVER COLD CRANK BELOW 80 DEGREES. And it was a mild summer. This is as hot as it will ever get in some markets outside of a couple of days. This summer in my visit to Sweden we saw the hottest day on record for a couple of years. It was 82 at the peak of daylight hours to only drop back into the 40s-50s.

The United States is a big place with the worlds most variable climate and geography. There is no single answer to what is right for you. Don’t you people travel a lot? Is this not an over landing / adventuring forum?

It’s ok to use some common sense. For a crowd of people who **** off into the wilderness with no cell service in a gas guzzler you lot are some funny people for being afraid to not follow an instruction to the letter on something that is clearly variable even within Toyota’s own documentation.

Sorry to sound rude but I kind of want to be rude right now. This whole thread is dumb.
 
Last edited:
This whole idea that 0W20 best was moniker was officially debunked when I provided proof that the 2021 Dubai spec 5.7 engine has 5W30 as the recommended weight.

Can I buy you a GD beer or something? 😁
 
What if I told you fat corporate bureaucrats in ill fitting suits made that decision instead?

This thread was extremely frustrating to read. Even when presented with evidence people will fall back on tropes. I don’t know what is driving some of your decisions here other than perhaps a false ideal of American exceptionalism. If your climate is like Russia, check that regions owners manual, if your climate is like the Middle East, look there. If your climate is like mine, run 0W in the winter and 5W in the summer. The engine is indentical in all these various markets.

I run 5W-30 in the summer here. AT NO POINT THIS SUMMER IN AUSTIN DID MY ENGINE EVER COLD CRANK BELOW 80 DEGREES. And it was a mild summer. This is as hot as it will ever get in some markets outside of a couple of days. This summer in my visit to Sweden we saw the hottest day on record for a couple of years. It was 82 at the peak of daylight hours to only drop back into the 40s-50s.

The United States is a big place with the worlds most variable climate and geography. There is no single answer to what is right for you. Don’t you people travel a lot? Is this not an over landing / adventuring forum?

It’s ok to use some common sense. For a crowd of people who f*** off into the wilderness with no cell service in a gas guzzler you lot are some funny people for being afraid to not follow an instruction to the letter on something that is clearly variable even within Toyota’s own documentation.

Sorry to sound rude but I kind of want to be rude right now. This whole thread is dumb.

Ok, cool
 
All of this is about CAFE numbers. As one gentleman quipped in a YouTube video; the oil cap on his Ford Mustang once read 5W30 and around 2000 changed to 0W20. Same engine.

Fines for not reaching CAFE numbers are the culprit. No one bought a Land Cruiser for its fuel economy! I genuinely believe that Toyota stopped importing the Land Cruiser to the US in favor of the Lexus version to deal with CAFE “fleet numbers”. They can also sell it at a much higher price point.

Toyota is playing the game for which the U S Government made the rules. They have no choice.

A close friend who has been in the automotive repair business for over 35 years stated 5W30 was the standard for years in gas powered cars and he’s seen engines go 100’s of thousands miles without issues. Extended oil changes are stupid. He has had too many of these come his way and seen the damage done.

The language in the owners manual is very transparent (to me anyway) CYA language to scare you into changing back to 0W20 if you do happen to use something else as a stop gap.
In other markets 5W30 is recommended. A 5W40 wouldn’t scare me at all. I don't live in Alaska or Siberia.

Here is a good read:

I've been around high performance engines most of my life and know all about oiling them. Thin isn't necessarily a good thing. NASCAR used to use it for qualifying BITD and switched to heavier grade like 20W50 for the racing. Hmmmm?
Porsche has a 10W60 for air cooled engines available now. So does Liqui-Moly. Good stuff in the right application.
Poor BMW owners: Engine Oil Info for BMW - https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/. Break My Wallet/ Bring More Wrenches. Having survived the S54 (rod bearing) Debacle I've never owned another BMW. Lease? Maybe. Own? NOT. I digress....

Begs the question: If we wear our "Dino Burners" out more quickly will that be the impetus to get us all in electric vehicles? ;)
 
A Honda designed from the ground up for 0w-16 will likely run for a few hundred thousand on that oil without issue. What nascar did has virtually no relevance to what we should put into our 200s… they can decide to run a different oil and change the bearing tolerances and oil pressure for the very next race. Also for every person that says thinner isn’t better, on BITOG there is a lubrication engineer that says thicker isn’t necessarily better in engines not designed for it. For starters the increased viscosity increases time to shed heat from the oil after it has been developed.. I’d struggle to find it now but read a good white paper on the impacts of much of thicker oil for track use in road cars.

I agree the push for 0w-20 likely has CAFE as a primary reason, but good compliance with recommended maintenance schedules and wide availability of that oil were also probably big factors in the US and other western markets. Specifying 0w-20 in large parts of Africa or central/South America would have been a comedy show.

And don’t take this as me s***ting on 5w-30 in our engines, that is what I run. I just prefer to look for more signal than noise with regard to evidence vs anecdotes.
 
When "we" got our LC's did anyone read the warranty book regarding the Special Operating Conditions language? IMHO, it could be a good way out a warranty claim.

5K always no matter what. I've got 2 cars with over 200,000K on them and that's been SOP since new. Since neither one is worth much I keep them serviced and in top condition. One is an old pre-DEF in-line 6 MB diesel that gets an effortless 45mpg on the road. I don't drive 65mph to get that either. Best interstate road car I've owned. The torque is there all the time and at highway speeds it will dust my LC. Heck, it'll smoke it (literally) from a stoplight.
As far as extended oil changes go, Ford is having issues with the EcoBoost phasers (VVT) that seem to be linked to this. Happens around 70,000 and it's no walk in the park to repair. Good YouTube videos out there.
+1 on potential Toyota "legal-ese" language for them to deny claims. Though an oil analysis would have to show glaring deficits, right?

Coming from an EcoBoost I can say the UOA's from those engines (which were notoriously hard on oils) still had a few hold outs running higher interval oil changes with premium (Amsoil SS, etc) tier oils. My limited experience and reading on the 5.7L vs the Ford ecoboost engines are very different from what I can tell on how hard they are on oils. Please correct me if I am wrong, as this is the first Toyota I have owned.
 
HIGHLIGHTED RED in RED:

Fuel Economy: Does Anyone Really Care?​

First, we should face the fact that the American consumer does not typically care about fuel economy except during difficult economic times. The No. 1 selling passenger vehicle is the Ford F-Series Pickup. Five of the top 10 best-selling vehicles are trucks, and trucks outsell cars.

Some of the trucks are called sport-utility vehicles, otherwise known as SUVs, because their owners don’t want to admit they are trucks. The mass (size, weight) of these vehicles is not conducive to great fuel economy.

Backup_200307_PractLub-Fig1.jpg

Figure 1. Bearing Wear​

Additionally, consider how most vehicles are driven. Anyone accelerating slowly or driving at the speed limit to conserve energy is a danger to himself and other drivers who are in a much bigger hurry.

Auto manufacturers, on the other hand, are concerned about fuel economy. The manufacturer faces big fines if the fleet of cars it produces falls short of the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) requirements imposed upon them by the federal government.

The March to Thinner Oils​

Thinner oils are being used these days for three reasons: They save fuel in test engines, the viscosity rules have changed, and manufacturers are recommending thinner grades.

The Sequence VI-B is the test used to evaluate fuel economy for the GF-3 specification. The VI-B test engine is fitted with a roller cam where the old Sequence VI test used a slider cam. The old Sequence VI test responded well to friction modifiers, but the Sequence VI-B responds to thinner oils.

The test oil’s fuel efficiency is compared to the fuel efficiency of a reference oil in the Sequence VI-B test. To pass, the test oil must improve fuel economy one to two percent, depending on viscosity grade. SAE 5W-20 must produce higher relative fuel efficiency than SAE 5W-30.

It is interesting to note that the reference oil is fully PAO synthetic SAE 5W-30. To qualify for the GF-3 Starburst, ordinary mineral oils had to beat the fuel economy of the full synthetic reference oil. (It seems there is more to fuel economy than a magic base oil.)

Another factor in fuel economy is temporary polymer shear. These polymers are additives known as viscosity index improvers (or modifiers). Polymers are plastics dissolved in oil to provide multiviscosity characteristics. Just as some plastics are tougher, more brittle or more heat-resistant than others, different polymers have different characteristics.

Polymers are huge molecules with many branches. As they are heated, they uncoil and spread out. The branches entangle with those of other polymer molecules and trap and control many tiny oil molecules. Therefore, a relatively small amount of polymer can have a huge effect on oil viscosity.

As oil is forced between a bearing and journal, many polymers have a tendency to align with each other, somewhat like nesting spoons. When this happens, viscosity drops. Then when the oil progresses through the bearing, the polymer molecules entangle again and viscosity returns to normal. This phenomenon is referred to as temporary shear.

Because the Sequence VI-B test responds to reductions in viscosity, oil formulators rely on polymer shear to pass the test. A shear stable polymer makes passing the GF-3 fuel economy test much more challenging.

New rules defining the cold-flow requirements of SAE viscosity grades (SAE J300) became effective in June 2001. The auto manufacturers were afraid that modern injection systems might allow the engine to start at temperatures lower than the oil could flow into the oil pump. Consequently, the new rules had a thinning effect on oil.

The auto manufacturers now recommend thinner oils for their vehicles than in the past. Years ago, SAE 10W-40 was the most commonly recommended viscosity grade, later migrating to SAE 10W-30. SAE 5W-30 is most popular now, but Ford and Honda recommend SAE 5W-20. It is likely that more widespread adoption of SAE 5W-20 and other thin oils may occur to help comply with CAFE requirements.

Because of the change in cold-flow requirements and the fuel economy test pushing formulators toward the bottom of the viscosity grade, today’s SAE 10W-30 oils are more like yesterday’s (GF-1 spec) SAE 5W-30 oils. On top of that, there is a trend toward auto manufacturers recommending thinner grades. This seems ridiculous. SUVs and trucks, with their inherently less-efficient four-wheel drive and brick-wall aerodynamics, need powerful, gas-guzzling engines to move their mass around in a hurry. In response, auto manufacturers recommend using thin oils to save fuel. Incredible!


Viscosity and Wear

Thinner oils have less drag, and therefore less friction and wear. Right? Perhaps in the test engine or engines that experience normal operation. But somewhat thicker oils may offer more protection for more severe operations such as driving through mountains, pulling a boat, dusty conditions, short trips, high rpm, overloading, overheating and overcooling.

Backup_200307_PractLub-Fig2.jpg

Figure 2. Ring Wear​

Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30).

If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture.

Ford is bumping up against its CAFE requirements and recommends SAE 5W-20 oil for most of its engines in the United States. It claims SAE 5W-20 is optimal for fuel efficiency and wear.

To determine if SAE 5W-20 oils provide the same level of protection as SAE 5W-30 oils, Dagenham Motors in England, one of the largest Ford dealers in Europe, was consulted. SAE 5W-30 is required for warranty purposes in England, and SAE 5W-20 is not even available. If SAE 5W-20 were better for both fuel economy and wear, why would Ford not recommend it for its same engines in Europe?

Antiwear Property Changes​

Another change that occurred in passenger car motor oils with GF-2 and GF-3 is a more stringent limit on phosphorus, which is part of the zinc phosphate (ZDDP) antiwear additive. The auto manufacturers are concerned that phosphorus will deposit on surfaces of the catalytic converter and shorten its life.

This is a complicated issue, and the deposits depend on the specific ZDDP chemistry and the finished oil formulation. The industry was unsuccessful in designing an engine test for an oil’s catalytic converter deposit forming tendencies. Therefore, the auto manufacturers set an arbitrary limit for motor oil of 0.1 percent phosphorus.

Antiwear additives are important in the absence of a hydrodynamic film, such as in the valve train. The antiwear additives are activated by frictional heat, which causes them to react with the hot surface and form a chemical barrier to wear.

The mechanism by which phosphorus deposits form on catalytic converter surfaces is not fully understood. It does not correlate directly with oil volatility or oil consumption. On the other hand, if engine wear causes oil consumption to increase, the risk of forming phosphorus deposits in the converter would increase dramatically. It seems that preventing wear and oil consumption should be a priority.

In the past, oil formulators could make a premium product by simply adding more ZDDP. A similar move today would result in an oil formulation that would not support new car warranties.

Short-term Thinking​

As wear increases, the efficiency of an engine declines. Valve train wear slightly changes valve timing and movement. Ring and liner wear affect compression. The wear hurts fuel efficiency and power output by an imperceptible amount at first, but then the difference in fuel economy between an SAE 10W-30 and SAE 5W-20 is hardly noticeable. Efficiency continues to decline as wear progresses. Perhaps optimizing wear protection is the way to reduce fuel consumption over the life of the engine.

Certainly engines that have experienced significant ring and liner wear benefit from thicker oils. Thicker oil use results in compression increases, performance improvements and reduced oil consumption.

High-mileage oils are a relatively new category of passenger car motor oils. These products typically contain more detergent/ dispersant and antiwear additives than new car oils. They typically contain a seal swell agent and are available in thicker viscosity grades than most new cars recommend. “High mileage” seems to be defined by “as soon as your car is out of warranty.”

What To Use​

Although thinner oils with less antiwear additive outperform more robust products in the 96-hour fuel economy test, it is not clear that such products save fuel over the useful life of the engine.

Every fluid is a compromise. Oils recommended by the auto manufacturers seem to compromise protection from wear under severe conditions to gain fuel economy and catalyst durability. It is important to recognize that to use a product that offers more protection from wear will most likely compromise your warranty. Thicker oils also compromise cold temperature flow, which may be of concern depending upon climate and season.

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.
 
All of this is about CAFE numbers. As one gentleman quipped in a YouTube video; the oil cap on his Ford Mustang once read 5W30 and around 2000 changed to 0W20. Same engine.

Fines for not reaching CAFE numbers are the culprit. No one bought a Land Cruiser for its fuel economy! I genuinely believe that Toyota stopped importing the Land Cruiser to the US in favor of the Lexus version to deal with CAFE “fleet numbers”. They can also sell it at a much higher price point.

Toyota is playing the game for which the U S Government made the rules. They have no choice.

A close friend who has been in the automotive repair business for over 35 years stated 5W30 was the standard for years in gas powered cars and he’s seen engines go 100’s of thousands miles without issues. Extended oil changes are stupid. He has had too many of these come his way and seen the damage done.

The language in the owners manual is very transparent (to me anyway) CYA language to scare you into changing back to 0W20 if you do happen to use something else as a stop gap.
In other markets 5W30 is recommended. A 5W40 wouldn’t scare me at all. I don't live in Alaska or Siberia.

Here is a good read:

I've been around high performance engines most of my life and know all about oiling them. Thin isn't necessarily a good thing. NASCAR used to use it for qualifying BITD and switched to heavier grade like 20W50 for the racing. Hmmmm?
Porsche has a 10W60 for air cooled engines available now. So does Liqui-Moly. Good stuff in the right application.
Poor BMW owners: Engine Oil Info for BMW - https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/. Break My Wallet/ Bring More Wrenches. Having survived the S54 (rod bearing) Debacle I've never owned another BMW. Lease? Maybe. Own? NOT. I digress....

Begs the question: If we wear our "Dino Burners" out more quickly will that be the impetus to get us all in electric vehicles? ;)

A Honda designed from the ground up for 0w-16 will likely run for a few hundred thousand on that oil without issue. What nascar did has virtually no relevance to what we should put into our 200s… they can decide to run a different oil and change the bearing tolerances and oil pressure for the very next race. Also for every person that says thinner isn’t better, on BITOG there is a lubrication engineer that says thicker isn’t necessarily better in engines not designed for it. For starters the increased viscosity increases time to shed heat from the oil after it has been developed.. I’d struggle to find it now but read a good white paper on the impacts of much of thicker oil for track use in road cars.

I agree the push for 0w-20 likely has CAFE as a primary reason, but good compliance with recommended maintenance schedules and wide availability of that oil were also probably big factors in the US and other western markets. Specifying 0w-20 in large parts of Africa or central/South America would have been a comedy show.

And don’t take this as me s***ting on 5w-30 in our engines, that is what I run. I just prefer to look for more signal than noise with regard to evidence vs anecdotes.

Precisely.

There are undoubtedly engines designed for 0W-20/16 from the ground up. 3UR-FE is not one of them. Maybe someone will correct me on this but I'm not going to care.
It's clear with the recommended maintenance from Toyota themselves that it is supposed to run a variety of oils.
In any case however, oil weight is usually prescribed according to operating temperatures. Im not gonna ignore that basic fundamental principle of physics because there is regulatory wording in the USA or European manual.

Also you should go ahead and never change your lifetime transmission fluid, according to Toyota.
 
Last edited:
HIGHLIGHTED RED in RED:

Fuel Economy: Does Anyone Really Care?​

First, we should face the fact that the American consumer does not typically care about fuel economy except during difficult economic times. The No. 1 selling passenger vehicle is the Ford F-Series Pickup. Five of the top 10 best-selling vehicles are trucks, and trucks outsell cars.

Some of the trucks are called sport-utility vehicles, otherwise known as SUVs, because their owners don’t want to admit they are trucks. The mass (size, weight) of these vehicles is not conducive to great fuel economy.

Backup_200307_PractLub-Fig1.jpg

Figure 1. Bearing Wear​

Additionally, consider how most vehicles are driven. Anyone accelerating slowly or driving at the speed limit to conserve energy is a danger to himself and other drivers who are in a much bigger hurry.

Auto manufacturers, on the other hand, are concerned about fuel economy. The manufacturer faces big fines if the fleet of cars it produces falls short of the Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) requirements imposed upon them by the federal government.

The March to Thinner Oils​

Thinner oils are being used these days for three reasons: They save fuel in test engines, the viscosity rules have changed, and manufacturers are recommending thinner grades.

The Sequence VI-B is the test used to evaluate fuel economy for the GF-3 specification. The VI-B test engine is fitted with a roller cam where the old Sequence VI test used a slider cam. The old Sequence VI test responded well to friction modifiers, but the Sequence VI-B responds to thinner oils.

The test oil’s fuel efficiency is compared to the fuel efficiency of a reference oil in the Sequence VI-B test. To pass, the test oil must improve fuel economy one to two percent, depending on viscosity grade. SAE 5W-20 must produce higher relative fuel efficiency than SAE 5W-30.

It is interesting to note that the reference oil is fully PAO synthetic SAE 5W-30. To qualify for the GF-3 Starburst, ordinary mineral oils had to beat the fuel economy of the full synthetic reference oil. (It seems there is more to fuel economy than a magic base oil.)

Another factor in fuel economy is temporary polymer shear. These polymers are additives known as viscosity index improvers (or modifiers). Polymers are plastics dissolved in oil to provide multiviscosity characteristics. Just as some plastics are tougher, more brittle or more heat-resistant than others, different polymers have different characteristics.

Polymers are huge molecules with many branches. As they are heated, they uncoil and spread out. The branches entangle with those of other polymer molecules and trap and control many tiny oil molecules. Therefore, a relatively small amount of polymer can have a huge effect on oil viscosity.

As oil is forced between a bearing and journal, many polymers have a tendency to align with each other, somewhat like nesting spoons. When this happens, viscosity drops. Then when the oil progresses through the bearing, the polymer molecules entangle again and viscosity returns to normal. This phenomenon is referred to as temporary shear.

Because the Sequence VI-B test responds to reductions in viscosity, oil formulators rely on polymer shear to pass the test. A shear stable polymer makes passing the GF-3 fuel economy test much more challenging.

New rules defining the cold-flow requirements of SAE viscosity grades (SAE J300) became effective in June 2001. The auto manufacturers were afraid that modern injection systems might allow the engine to start at temperatures lower than the oil could flow into the oil pump. Consequently, the new rules had a thinning effect on oil.

The auto manufacturers now recommend thinner oils for their vehicles than in the past. Years ago, SAE 10W-40 was the most commonly recommended viscosity grade, later migrating to SAE 10W-30. SAE 5W-30 is most popular now, but Ford and Honda recommend SAE 5W-20. It is likely that more widespread adoption of SAE 5W-20 and other thin oils may occur to help comply with CAFE requirements.

Because of the change in cold-flow requirements and the fuel economy test pushing formulators toward the bottom of the viscosity grade, today’s SAE 10W-30 oils are more like yesterday’s (GF-1 spec) SAE 5W-30 oils. On top of that, there is a trend toward auto manufacturers recommending thinner grades. This seems ridiculous. SUVs and trucks, with their inherently less-efficient four-wheel drive and brick-wall aerodynamics, need powerful, gas-guzzling engines to move their mass around in a hurry. In response, auto manufacturers recommend using thin oils to save fuel. Incredible!


Viscosity and Wear

Thinner oils have less drag, and therefore less friction and wear. Right? Perhaps in the test engine or engines that experience normal operation. But somewhat thicker oils may offer more protection for more severe operations such as driving through mountains, pulling a boat, dusty conditions, short trips, high rpm, overloading, overheating and overcooling.

Backup_200307_PractLub-Fig2.jpg

Figure 2. Ring Wear​

Any abrasive particles equal to or larger than the oil film thickness will cause wear. Filters are necessary to keep contaminants small. The other side of the equation is oil film thickness. Thicker oil films can accommodate larger contaminants.

Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range. One might be surprised at the slight amount of difference between straight viscosity vs. multiviscosity oils with the same back number (for example, SAE 30, SAE 5W-30, and SAE 10W-30).

If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture.

Ford is bumping up against its CAFE requirements and recommends SAE 5W-20 oil for most of its engines in the United States. It claims SAE 5W-20 is optimal for fuel efficiency and wear.

To determine if SAE 5W-20 oils provide the same level of protection as SAE 5W-30 oils, Dagenham Motors in England, one of the largest Ford dealers in Europe, was consulted. SAE 5W-30 is required for warranty purposes in England, and SAE 5W-20 is not even available. If SAE 5W-20 were better for both fuel economy and wear, why would Ford not recommend it for its same engines in Europe?

Antiwear Property Changes​

Another change that occurred in passenger car motor oils with GF-2 and GF-3 is a more stringent limit on phosphorus, which is part of the zinc phosphate (ZDDP) antiwear additive. The auto manufacturers are concerned that phosphorus will deposit on surfaces of the catalytic converter and shorten its life.

This is a complicated issue, and the deposits depend on the specific ZDDP chemistry and the finished oil formulation. The industry was unsuccessful in designing an engine test for an oil’s catalytic converter deposit forming tendencies. Therefore, the auto manufacturers set an arbitrary limit for motor oil of 0.1 percent phosphorus.

Antiwear additives are important in the absence of a hydrodynamic film, such as in the valve train. The antiwear additives are activated by frictional heat, which causes them to react with the hot surface and form a chemical barrier to wear.

The mechanism by which phosphorus deposits form on catalytic converter surfaces is not fully understood. It does not correlate directly with oil volatility or oil consumption. On the other hand, if engine wear causes oil consumption to increase, the risk of forming phosphorus deposits in the converter would increase dramatically. It seems that preventing wear and oil consumption should be a priority.

In the past, oil formulators could make a premium product by simply adding more ZDDP. A similar move today would result in an oil formulation that would not support new car warranties.

Short-term Thinking​

As wear increases, the efficiency of an engine declines. Valve train wear slightly changes valve timing and movement. Ring and liner wear affect compression. The wear hurts fuel efficiency and power output by an imperceptible amount at first, but then the difference in fuel economy between an SAE 10W-30 and SAE 5W-20 is hardly noticeable. Efficiency continues to decline as wear progresses. Perhaps optimizing wear protection is the way to reduce fuel consumption over the life of the engine.

Certainly engines that have experienced significant ring and liner wear benefit from thicker oils. Thicker oil use results in compression increases, performance improvements and reduced oil consumption.

High-mileage oils are a relatively new category of passenger car motor oils. These products typically contain more detergent/ dispersant and antiwear additives than new car oils. They typically contain a seal swell agent and are available in thicker viscosity grades than most new cars recommend. “High mileage” seems to be defined by “as soon as your car is out of warranty.”

What To Use​

Although thinner oils with less antiwear additive outperform more robust products in the 96-hour fuel economy test, it is not clear that such products save fuel over the useful life of the engine.

Every fluid is a compromise. Oils recommended by the auto manufacturers seem to compromise protection from wear under severe conditions to gain fuel economy and catalyst durability. It is important to recognize that to use a product that offers more protection from wear will most likely compromise your warranty. Thicker oils also compromise cold temperature flow, which may be of concern depending upon climate and season.

The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker (such as SAE 10W-30 or 15W-40) and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.

OK, but a lot of this info is pretty old. The explanation around test results/requirements seem to reference ILSAC GF-3 and how that is very different for the results/requirements for ILSAC GF-2. What about current generation full synthetics like Mobil 1 5W-30 which meet ILSAC GF-6A specs?

Edit to add: Manufacturer data for Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 can be found here: Mobil 1 Extended Performance Specs
 
If the rest of the world is not running the 0w-20 what are they using?
 
If the rest of the world is not running the 0w-20 what are they using?

Its been posted multiple times in this very thread................
 
To determine if SAE 5W-20 oils provide the same level of protection as SAE 5W-30 oils, Dagenham Motors in England, one of the largest Ford dealers in Europe, was consulted. SAE 5W-30 is required for warranty purposes in England, and SAE 5W-20 is not even available. If SAE 5W-20 were better for both fuel economy and wear, why would Ford not recommend it for its same engines in Europe?

I'm confused by this question. Isn't the simple answer as to why Ford would not recommend the 5W-20 oil is because it "...is not even available?"
 
I switched to 0w30 in my 2015 at 57k miles (bought it used with 50k miles). Get excellent UOA on that oil.

I dumped 0w20 in favor of 0w30 in my 2021 at 600 miles. Eff then piss thin oil.
 
I’ll be running 5w-30 while driving from Texas to Utah with a stacked rig and pulling a TT. Mild lift with a/t’s and arb front bumper. Trailer weights about 4500lbs loaded. Weather seems mild. 82k on the odo.
 

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