What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (17 Viewers)

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I think it was @Aloha Jen. Credit where credits due…👍👍👍
I had never seen the third brake light on a 40 mounted in the spare tire hub ever before. It’s such a great and useful add-on that I would be surprised if I was the first to ever think of it. But I love the added safety, and if I was the first to ever think it up, I suppose it should be referred to as the “Aloha Jen spare tire 3rd brake light” from now till the end of time…or at least till some else comes along and claims the idea before I had it in November of last year!😘
 
I had never seen the third brake light on a 40 mounted in the spare tire hub ever before. It’s such a great and useful add-on that I would be surprised if I was the first to ever think of it. But I love the added safety, and if I was the first to ever think it up, I suppose it should be referred to as the “Aloha Jen spare tire 3rd brake light” from now till the end of time…or at least till some else comes along and claims the idea before I had it in November of last year!😘
You should start manufacturing the Aloha Jen third brake light. I bet there would be a market for it.
 
Mocha run to The Gather in downtown Sunny Lake Butler, Florida.


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That’s a pricey solder job…those Penny’s are worth money these days

EDIT: sold our boat a few months ago…just thinking, we used zinc cathodes for salt water … they are cheaper than WWll pennies and can be as big as a 12mm socket or bigger than your hands…. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=zincs+for+boat&adgrpid=1346904173715119&hvadid=84181777841962&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=98669&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-84182585234640:loc-190&hydadcr=9378_13552459&msclkid=0b925c1d99e1120caf7a3af33d84df68&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_6sb227fb7u_e
Not to be a boring stickler but the WW2 era non-Copper cents were steel. It's the present day pennies that are mostly Zinc.
 
Got the driver's seat back from the upholsterer. Reassembled the seats and reinstalled them. Here is the before photo showing the grime and paint overspray.
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After cleaning the backs and using our Spotbot to remove the embedded dirt and grime from the fabric, they turned a beautiful shade of blue green. I had to straighten the back metal, something collided with it and dented it pretty badly. I found that a combination of Tuff Stuff and Magic Eraser did the trick on the vinyl.
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Here they are ready for installation.
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Installed my new sun visors and they are the same cream color as the seats.
I also reinstalled my roll bar that the PO managed to install "inside out". All is right with the world.
 
Not to be a boring stickler but the WW2 era non-Copper cents were steel. It's the present day pennies that are mostly Zinc.
Ooops!
 
A simple screw-jack can be purchased, or fabricated from some correct length hardware (basically a bolt in compression, not tension). It presses the rivet in place between channel so that you can round-over the rivet with heat and a swage-block. A swage-block is nothing more than a dimple in a piece of steel, probably a drill-bit point is all that is necessary, and a handle. An acetylene torch, or carbon-arc-gouging electrode (for AGM/gel batteries or battery, or SMAW set-up) will provide the heat. It would be cake to mock-up a rivet-set-up to practice on some channel or box material. (I'm not speaking here from any frame-repair experience)

Screws are only as fat as the inside groove in the thread, so they won't exactly replace rivets regarding diameter, unless you drill-out the frame. Button-head screws will appear more correct, but, they are ideal for bicycles, Warn hub mechanisms, and office furniture. The material has to be really hard, so that the hex key or socket adapter doesn't strip them, but it is still a far cry from an external hex-head screw/bolt. I'd say that they are the wrong Class. Class 7 screws were used to hold the hub flange to the hub, subject to cyclical loading within the drivetrain, and corrosion (you'll see all kinds of lower Class screws used all over these rigs. This article describes many issues with simply using a stronger Class/Grade fastener to join soft material like components of a frame. I remember when a former Navy machinist told me that stronger fasteners are not necessarily better - it still has me buggin'-out.
I'd definitely chose a bolt rather than a screw - the problem is finding a bolt with a sufficiently short shank for the job.
I think the Rivet would be installed hot - you need the shank to expand as you strike the head
 
I'd definitely chose a bolt rather than a screw - the problem is finding a bolt with a sufficiently short shank for the job.
I think the Rivet would be installed hot - you need the shank to expand as you strike the head
The difference between a screw and a bolt is a nut and some washers. So, I was only referring to the critical part of the bolt, not the nut. I realize that we call them, 'head bolts.'
Definitely use heat when setting frame rivets.
 
The difference between a screw and a bolt is a nut and some washers. So, I was only referring to the critical part of the bolt, not the nut. I realize that we call them, 'head bolts.'
Definitely use heat when setting frame rivets.

I think your trying to simplify something that's not that simple. There are many adjectives required that describe a fastener beyond just screws or bolts. They are all screws. A head bolt is a head bolt. It's usually designed for a certain application with a certain head type, strength, diameter and thread length that usually doesn't fall within typical fasteners standards. I'm guessing what you're calling a bolt, is actually a HHCS(hex head cap screw). If you want to take a deep dive into fasteners get a ASTM standards manual for fasteners and materials.
 
I think your trying to simplify something that's not that simple. There are many adjectives required that describe a fastener beyond just screws or bolts. They are all screws. A head bolt is a head bolt. It's usually designed for a certain application with a certain head type, strength, diameter and thread length that usually doesn't fall within typical fasteners standards. I'm guessing what you're calling a bolt, is actually a HHCS(hex head cap screw). If you want to take a deep dive into fasteners get a ASTM standards manual for fasteners and materials.
I'm a machinist, so my language doesn't necessarily fit in. If you look up anything in Machinery's Handbook, it will refer to 'screw threads.' At the hardware store, you select screws from one bin, and nuts from another. We are working with nouns. Anything with an external thread is a screw, like you said. A screw is a simple machine with a head and a helical thread. Engine heads are not secured by nuts, so I confusingly call them 'screws.' Button-head, socket head cap screw, slotted, carriage bolts, or hex, your choice. When you fasten it with a nut, then it is a bolt. However, regarding fastener failure, the article I posted was illustrating the failure of the screw, at the minor diameter, not broken nuts. Fastener fault consideration involves both ASTM testing, as well as ANSI standards.

Once you get into 'screwdrivers,' the language gets messy. Likewise, 'turning' is a specific operation performed on a lathe. Turning, facing, boring - outter diameter, perpendicular to axis, or cylindrical, respectively. So, mechanics talk about 'turning' brake rotors or drums, that is correct in the garage, and incorrect in the machine shop. Also, a 'drill-bit,' in the machine shop is simply a 'drill,' which is also in the dictionary.

In American English:
Bolt - noun. A fastener consisting of a threaded pin or rod with a head at one end, designed to be inserted through holes in assembled parts and secured by a mated nut that is tightened by applying torque.
 
Car camping in Clayton GA. 8:45 a.m. Popcorn Overlook
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The difference between a screw and a bolt is a nut and some washers. So, I was only referring to the critical part of the bolt, not the nut. I realize that we call them, 'head bolts.'
Definitely use heat when setting frame rivets.
I've really put the cat among the pigeons here, oops - it's just semantics though.
For me, as an aerospace engineer in the UK, a bolt has a shank, but a screw does not. It has nothing to do with nuts.
Im just pointing out that nobody should be replacing the rivet with a threaded fastener which is threaded along its whole length.
 
I've really put the cat among the pigeons here, oops - it's just semantics though.
For me, as an aerospace engineer in the UK, a bolt has a shank, but a screw does not. It has nothing to do with nuts.
Im just pointing out that nobody should be replacing the rivet with a threaded fastener which is threaded along its whole length.
Did you see the Fastenall article? https://www.fastenal.com/fast/services-and-solutions/engineering/fatigue# Figure 12, - length X vs. length X+Y, more thread length = less concentrated stress. The minor diameter of the thread is the concentrated weakness, so it is better to distribute that over a greater length of the fastener.
 

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