OlYellr
SILVER Star
always like company! - been busy with other things (moving daughter out of state this weekend) - so only a peeper at the moment. Will chime in the tech in October (ish).
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Busy day. Alignment at Radial tire in silver spring MD
Installed defender mirrors.
My girlfriend reminded me that she payed for the winchstill doesn’t offset her travel and food costs I told her.
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what color code is this? looks greatBusy day. Alignment at Radial tire in silver spring MD
Installed defender mirrors.
My girlfriend reminded me that she payed for the winch
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Thank you!
No color code, mixed by a shop in VA. Based of Proffit Land Cruiser SEMA build.
Let me know if you want to purchase, I’ll share the paint shop information
Can someone settle an internal debate I am having…
I understand some owners go thru great pains to mimic the factory frame riveting when repairing or replacing frame components. Some will use carriage bolts to maintain frame flex and some will weld in new frame parts.
with the type of use the truck driven in, is it mostly acceptable for trails or paved roads using welded frame versus riveted frame for extreme rock crawling?
I understand some owners go thru great pains to mimic the factory frame riveting when repairing or replacing frame components. Some will use carriage bolts to maintain frame flex and some will weld in new frame parts.
with the type of use the truck driven in, is it mostly acceptable for trails or paved roads using welded frame versus riveted frame for extreme rock crawling?
If it's riveted properly in two or more places its not moving enough to matter. Maybe they riveted instead of welding due to concerns with temper or warping. Carriage bolts are un-graded in my experience and are designed/used to sheer easily.
The rock crawlers I see have like ridged structures (welded) to other ridged ones with big joints in between to allow controlled flex.
Materials Science is a good way to look for build/design answers. Take the Titian submarine for example. Carbon fiber is wonderful stuff in tension, apparently not so good at repeated extreme compression cycles. Concrete very good at compression vs. tension.
Then there are other factors like hydrogen contamination in the metal, that can be heat cycled out by being very close to the melting point for a while.
The rock crawlers I see have like ridged structures (welded) to other ridged ones with big joints in between to allow controlled flex.
Materials Science is a good way to look for build/design answers. Take the Titian submarine for example. Carbon fiber is wonderful stuff in tension, apparently not so good at repeated extreme compression cycles. Concrete very good at compression vs. tension.
Then there are other factors like hydrogen contamination in the metal, that can be heat cycled out by being very close to the melting point for a while.
I noticed that I couldn't do much with that same tire-iron. I needed the stepped-one that came with the tire-changer. The step allows you to push slightly (but you're not supposed to hammer) and pry at the same position. Also, it seemed like it was tricky in the direct sun of summer. My 215/75s are probably more narrow than what you were working with, so the bead kinda resists seating when mounting the second side.
When I replace my rear cross member I plan to use rounded head bolts, which have a domed head with a female hex. You can get these in Class 10.9 and 12.9.
Whoever came up with this little mod deserves a MUD Medal. $8 light from Autozone that popped into the hubcap and a little bit of wiring, and you have a third brake light.
A simple screw-jack can be purchased, or fabricated from some correct length hardware (basically a bolt in compression, not tension). It presses the rivet in place between channel so that you can round-over the rivet with heat and a swage-block. A swage-block is nothing more than a dimple in a piece of steel, probably a drill-bit point is all that is necessary, and a handle. An acetylene torch, or carbon-arc-gouging electrode (for AGM/gel batteries or battery, or SMAW set-up) will provide the heat. It would be cake to mock-up a rivet-set-up to practice on some channel or box material. (I'm not speaking here from any frame-repair experience)
Screws are only as fat as the inside groove in the thread, so they won't exactly replace rivets regarding diameter, unless you drill-out the frame. Button-head screws will appear more correct, but, they are ideal for bicycles, Warn hub mechanisms, and office furniture. The material has to be really hard, so that the hex key or socket adapter doesn't strip them, but it is still a far cry from an external hex-head screw/bolt. I'd say that they are the wrong Class. Class 7 screws were used to hold the hub flange to the hub, subject to cyclical loading within the drivetrain, and corrosion (you'll see all kinds of lower Class screws used all over these rigs. This article describes many issues with simply using a stronger Class/Grade fastener to join soft material like components of a frame. I remember when a former Navy machinist told me that stronger fasteners are not necessarily better - it still has me buggin'-out.
Understanding Fastener Grades and Classes - Fastener Mart
Not all fasteners are created equally--some are stronger than others. This article looks at the different strength grades for both inch and metric sizes.
www.fastenermart.com
You never know these days, counterfeit bolts happen - people can stamp anything on anything as a fraud, then there always manufacturing mistakes like forgetting to put the anti-oxidant in the plastic for compression fitting in house water pipes - or short cycling the heat treatment....
'russian chips, american chips - problem is all made in taiwan'
'russian chips, american chips - problem is all made in taiwan'
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I used this method when replacing the front frame member of my 45, then I had the frame galvanized. I don’t think it will come loose in my lifetime.
@Michael B …galvanized…wow! I don’t remember reading that in your rather excellent post coverage on that 45… I may have enthusiastically skimmed over it while digesting all of it….that was some hunk of work. Beautiful!!!
That's where I saw the 3rd eye first. The other day I watched a hot zinc dip frame done in England. If I ever get to that point I'm going to solder zinc pennies everywhere I can on the underside.
@Aloha Jen sent me the info where to buy that light… I had previously not been able to find it so I installed this…it adds big visibility to the back end.
I did eventually buy the one she uses as you can hard bolt it in place…the one in the photo is a rubber gasket that floats in the same cutout.
I did eventually buy the one she uses as you can hard bolt it in place…the one in the photo is a rubber gasket that floats in the same cutout.
That’s a pricey solder job…those Penny’s are worth money these days
EDIT: sold our boat a few months ago…just thinking, we used zinc cathodes for salt water … they are cheaper than WWll pennies and can be as big as a 12mm socket or bigger than your hands…. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=zincs+fo...ag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_6sb227fb7u_e&tag=ihco-20
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Cathodic protection doesn't require 100% coverage to be effective.
Thanks Al! It was hot dipped, quenched and painted.
new shoes and finally back to the original wheels
