What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (21 Viewers)

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I have them on my 40 with no spacers. 255/75/17 tires. No issues.
Finally got my new shoes on. Found a great deal on five clean, matching FJC wheels. 255/75/17. Fit fine, no spacers. Waiting on some bolts to mount the spare tire carrier.

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1974 FJ40 finished up a refresh of the interior. I started by raising my drivers seat and fixing the stuck seat tracks, then it turned into a whole project. I painted the seat frames and roll bar, cleaned, greased & painted the jack & tools, put the tool braces back in, removed the seat cushions for a deep cleaning and new parachute buckles, and put fresh canvas on the speaker boxes. Lots of pictures.

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1974 FJ40 finished up a refresh of the interior. I started by raising my drivers seat and fixing the stuck seat tracks, then it turned into a whole project. I painted the seat frames and roll bar, cleaned, greased & painted the jack & tools, put the tool braces back in, removed the seat cushions for a deep cleaning and new parachute buckles, and put fresh canvas on the speaker boxes. Lots of pictures.

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Love that color and the white wheels. I actually had one stock wheel powder coated white after seeing one of your posts to see if I like it.
 
Love that color and the white wheels. I actually had one stock wheel powder coated white after seeing one of your posts to see if I like it.
Those were recently powder coated, all five. They are gray, not white.
 
I bought this nut setter kit at Harbor Freight when I put my seats back in. Previously the seats were screwed to the body with self tapping sheet metal screws. This is much better, I suggest getting one of these. It is well worth the fifty bucks.

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Got a bloke to weld some brackets to the tow bar to allow the engineer to re-certify the BTC to 4,000kg, up from the 3,000 kg standard. Also attached the 4,500kg Mr Hitches tow hitch. Certification set for next week, then we can hit the road full-time and tour our great nation!

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Took the '70 down the road after getting it timed and carb tuned. Runnin really good now.

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The original oil pan on my 2F finally rusted through despite having been brazed up on the inside once before. Rust gets between the skid plate and the bottom of the pan and has it's way with the metal. There's really no solution that I know of other than to drill out the spot welds, remove the plate, patch the pan and weld it back together.

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I chose to set the old pan aside and use a spare. Unfortunately the spare had been beat on pretty badly in the past probably to clear a different front driveshaft/axle/t-case combo. Turned out both rear corners were cracked from the abuse. Got the cracks welded up.

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After cleaning up the spare and straightening the skid plate as best I could, I RTVed the gap between the pan and the skid plate. Hopefully that will last a while. I used Hi Heat Copper. I also slightly trimmed a baffle and then bolted the pan lightly in place with some chunks of the old gasket, pulled the plugs, and spun the engine over to make certain nothing interfered with the rotating assembly.

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If you don't preload the pan the cooling welds will pull things a little out of position. I wasn't worried as aftermarket oil pan gaskets appear to be comparable quality to OEM and slightly thicker. After straightening the pan flange as well as I could along its entire length I pre-glued the the gasket to the front and rear of the pan with black silicone to make fitment much easier. Make sure you pre-fit the pan to align things correctly for your block - then glue. Ask me how I know. :rolleyes:

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Finished it off with a high speed paint job that added 3 or 4 horses. No leaks so far. HTH

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