What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (41 Viewers)

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Preparing to do rear axle and I'm getting tired of stacking 2x8s under my jack stands so building some high lift jack stands. Found an old timer who was selling a "HD" engine picker but no top. I scooped it up for $50 and spent another $270 on other square stock. I still need to add triangle support members made from recycled bed frames and build 4 more tops. Lowest height is 20" while the highest is 36" w/o a third extension piece. Thanks to Dirt Lifestyle Nate for the idea.

Tops - decided on 3 inch across although I think it might be a little wide (my frame rails are 2 inches wide, but I need to also use them on a Tacoma and a FZJ80).

Ground off the mill scale and applied some Steel-It

Here is the proto type with the extension pinned in:
How about burning in some gussets? I think that they need them.
 
How about burning in some gussets? I think that they need them.

X100. I’d not trust those with anything more than an axle alone.
 
I thought he was adding the “triangle support pieces made from bed frames” to be the gussets. I may have read it wrong.
 
I thought he was adding the “triangle support pieces made from bed frames” to be the gussets. I may have read it wrong.

That's the way I understood it also.
 
That's the way I understood it also.
Possibly... but bed frame wouldn't meet my overkill standards and seems a bit light to support 5000 lbs on one stand.
 
Gonna add some leveling feet or leave it?
They sit pretty flat on the concrete. I don't think I'll need them.

Possibly... but bed frame wouldn't meet my overkill standards and seems a bit light to support 5000 lbs on one stand.
Yes, the triangle support will be added shortly. I think the supports are just for lateral movement and the 5000 lb support is largely straight down. Anyone else have an opinion on whether or not the angle iron from a bed will be under kill?
 
They sit pretty flat on the concrete. I don't think I'll need them.


Yes, the triangle support will be added shortly. I think the supports are just for lateral movement and the 5000 lb support is largely straight down. Anyone else have an opinion on whether or not the angle iron from a bed will be under kill?

Yeah, I would definitely NOT use flimsy angle from a bed frame. I wouldn't even remotely consider it. I think "kill" was your operative word there.
 
A long over due lighted knob rheostat dimmer rotate feature pull switch inventory

84112-60010
84113-60011
84112-60030


X 36 in all ….

My life’s horde from age 15 to age 48 now …

Is that like 1.27 switches per year 🤔

Does it matter :D


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7A398459-5918-4C47-90E6-2DA2188D7ED9.jpeg
 
Anyone else have an opinion on whether or not the angle iron from a bed will be under kill?

I would say it depends on how old the bed frame is. Old ones were built like tanks.
New ones, you could bend over your knee.
 
They sit pretty flat on the concrete. I don't think I'll need them.


Yes, the triangle support will be added shortly. I think the supports are just for lateral movement and the 5000 lb support is largely straight down. Anyone else have an opinion on whether or not the angle iron from a bed will be under kill?
This is a little late but you have used your strongest material in the area requiring the least strength, i.e, the very bottom.
The beefy and no doubt expensive heavy wall tubing would make excellent struts angled from closer to the top of the column to the ground,
where they could then be tied to the center column with cheap flat stock which would only ever be under tension. For the same cash outlay you
would now have nearly indestructible trusses supporting your load. What you built is similar to a table base with the weight kept low for ballast.

I'll admit that it is difficult to accurately gauge the thickness of your tubes from the photos, so apologies if my statements about them are in error.
While I'm at it, thin wall may not be the best choice for the center column but would probably be OK if it was supported by the angled heavy wall.
As you have done it though, all the loads converge where you have attached the base tubes, weakening an already somewhat weak material.
Prices being what they are, I would have used the same center tube size for the whole structure, increasing strength and probably saving money.
 
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The wrecking yard welds steel wheels together, at right angles, one for the base, one standing for some elevation.

I'd feel okay if you made a couple of wheels into a cylinder shape. Say a couple of 15x8 stacked to 16" tall. Placed under tires they could even act as wheel chocks because of the shape of the steel wheel.

However, what if someone has a camera? Who wants to DIY something that already was worn out with memes months ago?

I had one of those tall jacks/winch bar, red I believe. When you have an FJ40s up on a bumper, and there is a nice much newer Toyota truck parked next to it. Ah man, that was a bad day for the other vehicle. The diamond plate on the 40 was aluminum, but no damage. I think that I wrote a check for like $800 after my buddies insurance, but, the worst part was telling people. "What the Land Cruiser fell off of the lift?" "Did anyone get hurt?" Pacing in the dirt driveway on a new cellular phone...
 
A long over due lighted knob rheostat dimmer rotate feature pull switch inventory

84112-60010
84113-60011
84112-60030


X 36 in all ….

My life’s horde from age 15 to age 48 now …

Is that like 1.27 switches per year 🤔

Does it matter :D


View attachment 3203363View attachment 3203364
I'm seriously glad you are doing this. Someone has to to keep these rigs on/off the road.

Dash off -> starting to restore/recover

Clutch parts in -> need newer style pivot. 3sp pivot is too long

Need different speedo cable.

Seeing progress and feeling good about this turd.

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I'd have to say my least favorite thing to do on an FJ40 is to reinstall the tranny. Hate that job.
 
Dash off -> starting to restore/recover

Clutch parts in -> need newer style pivot. 3sp pivot is too long

Need different speedo cable.

Seeing progress and feeling good about this turd.

View attachment 3203749
View attachment 3203750
View attachment 3203751
View attachment 3203752


what type of speedo cable FJ55 length spec. do u need ?

- early screw on male threads at cluster meter style

- or

- the later FJ55 length spec. push on and click white plastic tab style at cluster meter style ?



your UNICORN NOS FJ55 length spec. cable awaits you in climate controlled long time storage out-building #3 :cool:
 
I appreciate all of your comments and input.
This is a little late but you have used your strongest material in the area requiring the least strength, i.e, the very bottom.
The beefy and no doubt expensive heavy wall tubing would make excellent struts angled from closer to the top of the column to the ground,
where they could then be tied to the center column with cheap flat stock which would only ever be under tension. For the same cash outlay you
would now have nearly indestructible trusses supporting your load. What you built is similar to a table base with the weight kept low for ballast.

I'll admit that it is difficult to accurately gauge the thickness of your tubes from the photos, so apologies if my statements about them are in error.
While I'm at it, thin wall may not be the best choice for the center column but would probably be OK if it was supported by the angled heavy wall.
As you have done it though, all the loads converge where you have attached the base tubes, weakening an already somewhat weak material.
Prices being what they are, I would have used the same center tube size for the whole structure, increasing strength and probably saving money.

You make a lot of good points @flee . Unfortunately, the bells been rung. I think all of the material is 0.120. After the comments from @bikersmurf and @suzuguru , I decide to go buy some nicer, stronger steel. I decided that square was better for cutting angles than angle iron, plus, stronger. I still need to clean up the welds and apply some paint:


With all the heat cycles, I'm not sitting as flat as I was so I'll add some rubber feet to keep it level.
 

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