What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (25 Viewers)

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I just bought one, a BJ42 1982. Picking it up on Friday
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Ahhh! That's how the dash attaches, lol. Thanks for posting this. My PO had the dash re-apolstered and the screw holes were covered. Now I C!
😁
Exactly what happened with my first 40. I could tell it wasn’t correct by the way the dash pad was sagging. it literally drove me crazy until i figured it out, likely with help from someone on this forum.
 
Exactly what happened with my first 40. I could tell it wasn’t correct by the way the dash pad was sagging. it literally drove me crazy until i figured it out, likely with help from someone on this forum.
"I remember my first 40..." like it's a beer or something, lol.
I think I will search ACE for some sleeve inserts, or nuts even. I really don't want to go down to the dealership.
Thanks ALL for the bolts size and part #s.
 
Recent storms delayed getting the wagons and bezel back from the powder coat spa, but I picked them up today and dropped them off to get some 33x10.50s put on. I’m eager to get her (name TBD) off the stands and back out on the road. White is RAL 9010 (very close to the ‘82 OEM 033).

Someone remind me, which way does the bezel go...? 😜

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name suggestion Betty White
 
Removed the transmission hump, and started the install of my AA twin sticks for my t-case. Then I realized it would be the right time to remove the tar/bed-liner the previous owner put down on the floor to hide the fact that they put a '73 tub on the '76 front. I pulled the seats and gas tank to start that clean up when I decided to extract/drill out all the old broken off bolts. Further down the rabbit hole I figured I should also fix the hack-job of a driver seat bracket. Then I continued to fall down the hole and sourced a factory steel gas tank to replace the poly tank that P.O. put in.

Got about half the tar off with heat-gun, Goof-Off, and elbow grease when I threw in the towel and ordered Rust-Oleum Aircraft Remover and angle grinder strip discs. Once the chemicals/discs arrive and I get the rest of the tar off I'll kill the rust and put down a layer of Lizard Skin then cover with factory floor mats... after I fix the horrible welded in patches where the '73/'76 bodies meet.

I know everyone loves pictures, so here are a few...

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Removed the transmission hump, and started the install of my AA twin sticks for my t-case. Then I realized it would be the right time to remove the tar/bed-liner the previous owner put down on the floor to hide the fact that they put a '73 tub on the '76 front. I pulled the seats and gas tank to start that clean up when I decided to extract/drill out all the old broken off bolts. Further down the rabbit hole I figured I should also fix the hack-job of a driver seat bracket. Then I continued to fall down the hole and sourced a factory steel gas tank to replace the poly tank that P.O. put in.

Got about half the tar off with heat-gun, Goof-Off, and elbow grease when I threw in the towel and ordered Rust-Oleum Aircraft Remover and angle grinder strip discs. Once the chemicals/discs arrive and I get the rest of the tar off I'll kill the rust and put down a layer of Lizard Skin then cover with factory floor mats... after I fix the horrible welded in patches where the '73/'76 bodies meet.

I know everyone loves pictures, so here are a few...

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73 to 76 should be a easy mate without any patch work. Done right wouldn't know it didn't from the factory that way. Clues are in the bodis themselves not where mate. The A pillar seam is easy. Debated using a 78 cowl on my 73 with tons of extra holes. Cowl vent gone, gas pedal different, no vader light holes, heater different, hole for seat belt and brake warning on the dash all be would be different. To bad as changing cowl would be simple as long as neither was rusted on the A pillar to A pillar seam. Obviously they were dealing rust/damage or just did a hack job. I know how I would determine how the back was a 73, how did you figure it out?
 
"I remember my first 40..." like it's a beer or something, lol.

I have a bad memory so figured to remind myself about my first 40 better to just keep it and go out to the garage and look at it. Will be forty five years in July since I bought it. Paid for it a second time to keep it from a divorce in the eighties. Won't tell you how long it's been waiting for my son to replace the almost new clutch he destroyed in short order. A clue to how long it's been sitting I wasn't on mud when it was parked.
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I have a bad memory so figured to remind myself about my first 40 better to just keep it and go out to the garage and look at it. Will be forty five years in July since I bought it. Paid for it a second time to keep it from a divorce in the eighties. Won't tell you how long it's been waiting for my son to replace the almost new clutch he destroyed in short order. A clue to how long it's been sitting I wasn't on mud when it was parked.
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Just maybe, you should bite the bullet and get her fixed. Such a beauty sitting around waiting to get out and enjoy the road.
 
73 to 76 should be a easy mate without any patch work. Done right wouldn't know it didn't from the factory that way. Clues are in the bodis themselves not where mate. The A pillar seam is easy. Debated using a 78 cowl on my 73 with tons of extra holes. Cowl vent gone, gas pedal different, no vader light holes, heater different, hole for seat belt and brake warning on the dash all be would be different. To bad as changing cowl would be simple as long as neither was rusted on the A pillar to A pillar seam. Obviously they were dealing rust/damage or just did a hack job. I know how I would determine how the back was a 73, how did you figure it out?
Gas tank strap mounts and reverse light hole in driver's rear quarter. Did I pass your test?
 
I have a bad memory so figured to remind myself about my first 40 better to just keep it and go out to the garage and look at it. Will be forty five years in July since I bought it. Paid for it a second time to keep it from a divorce in the eighties. Won't tell you how long it's been waiting for my son to replace the almost new clutch he destroyed in short order. A clue to how long it's been sitting I wasn't on mud when it was parked.
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Future Barn Find!
 
Gas tank strap mounts and reverse light hole in driver's rear quarter. Did I pass your test?


The gas straps is a good one. guessing most would not catch that one. When I get that far on my 73 FST your to look at using the 9/73-1/79 fuel tank cover just because I bought one back in the eighties to use in my 68. one of the disadvantages of the larger tank the 74-78 doesn't fit. Will fit the 73 tank. Guessing it didn't come with the 73 only reverse light.? But if they installled the spare on the left like it would be in 76 it would have smashed th reverse when close the spare.o_O For you I would think having the holes for long just seat, no mounts for the roll bar and would be a biggie for me wrong door catch. Much perfer the 1/75+ one piece doors.
 
The gas straps is a good one. guessing most would not catch that one. When I get that far on my 73 FST your to look at using the 9/73-1/79 fuel tank cover just because I bought one back in the eighties to use in my 68. one of the disadvantages of the larger tank the 74-78 doesn't fit. Will fit the 73 tank. Guessing it didn't come with the 73 only reverse light.? But if they installled the spare on the left like it would be in 76 it would have smashed th reverse when close the spare.o_O For you I would think having the holes for long just seat, no mounts for the roll bar and would be a biggie for me wrong door catch. Much perfer the 1/75+ one piece doors.
Rear quarters had diamond plate on them covering the reverse light hole, and no spare mount when I got it. I rescued the truck after it had been sitting for 17 years, and was told it was all '76. Price was right, so it didn't really matter what it was. Has stock roll bar, and like I said floor was coated with crappy liner. Was repainted blurple. Looked good from pics, so I figured "What the hell, why not?" A-pillar seams look good. Wasn't until it showed up at home and I started cleaning it that I saw the back was Cygnus White and front was mustard, so I took a closer look. Has SBC and th350, so it was never going to be a restoration project (I have my 45 and 55 to scratch those itches). I'm just building it for my 17 year old son to go bash on rocks.


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Rear quarters had diamond plate on them covering the reverse light hole, and no spare mount when I got it. I rescued the truck after it had been sitting for 17 years, and was told it was all '76. Price was right, so it didn't really matter what it was. Has stock roll bar, and like I said floor was coated with crappy liner. Was repainted blurple. Looked good from pics, so I figured "What the hell, why not?" A-pillar seams look good. Wasn't until it showed up at home and I started cleaning it that I saw the back was Cygnus White and front was mustard, so I took a closer look. Has SBC and th350, so it was never going to be a restoration project (I have my 45 and 55 to scratch those itches). I'm just building it for my 17 year old son to go bash on rocks.


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are those FJ company wheels, what size tires are you running?
 
are those FJ company wheels, what size tires are you running?
Fifteen52. They are 35x12.5r17

 
Got some free goodies from a couple of friends. One was moving and the other cleaning out his garage.
Visors which I would like to use to add ICON visors, the rear step which needs powder coating and this really cool light bar. I have no idea what I’m going to do with it. I’m thinking powder coat black, remove the round lights which aren’t working and add a LED light bar.
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