Price?
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Price?
thats a killer 2nd start up , she has lots of life left in her m
that metal small cylinder screwed into the carb is NOT oem , SHED it ...
you have the 100% correct approach with the clear pre carb filter stick with that set up untill new gas is clean up there
good show !
Thanks Matt!
I was like a kid on Christmas morning when it started finally. I had attempted it a couple times before and after replacing the ignition stuff.
Any idea what the heck that cylinder is? Check valve, extra filter? It has a Fram logo on it. Suppose I could pull a part number off it maybe.
Thanks again Matt. I may take you up on that. I was just thinking that thing is screwed into the carb and I'll likely need to replace it with something.dumb AMERICAN Detroit rubbish that don't belong
maybe rusty inside too ?
delete it asap
i have carb fittings if u need anything PM me please
im here to help
Got her started and running for the first time in who knows how long. Wasn't running when I bought it. Just took points, condenser and coil (and not being 180 out). Oh and that fluid shooting at me in the first video is old nasty fuel indicating the mechanical fuel pump still works.
Third start original F135 engine 66 FJ40 - https://youtu.be/tXAb1WX6Bvw
I plan on it! You aren't kidding. This thing has what I believe to be an old Ramsey winch PTO. Unfortunately no winch or prop shaft. One of the POs decided to cut a nice L shaped hole in the tunnel cover for the shifter... Hopefully I can retain the 3 on the tree to keep it uber old school.Enjoy your tractor!
Recent storms delayed getting the wagons and bezel back from the powder coat spa, but I picked them up today and dropped them off to get some 33x10.50s put on. I’m eager to get her (name TBD) off the stands and back out on the road. White is RAL 9010 (very close to the ‘82 OEM 033).
Someone remind me, which way does the bezel go...?
View attachment 2593994
wide side on the top
Recent storms delayed getting the wagons and bezel back from the powder coat spa, but I picked them up today and dropped them off to get some 33x10.50s put on. I’m eager to get her (name TBD) off the stands and back out on the road. White is RAL 9010 (very close to the ‘82 OEM 033).
Someone remind me, which way does the bezel go...?
View attachment 2593994
@Redgrrr - not sure I understand. Can you elaborate a bit more?I learned this the hard way when I say this. Just a reminder to remove the paint or power coating from the inside face of the wheels Mating surface...the wheel can loosen up on you a few months later after you install. It’s embarrassing to admit that it happens!
Yeah - they coated the whole wheel. I understand now. I’ll go sand off/remove the paint before I put them back on. Thanks for the tip!Is the inside of your wheel where it mates to the hub painted? Like underneath the lug nuts. If there is paint there it can eventually make your wheel loosen up after the paint wears away.
it happened to me on a rear wheel. I only had two of the six studs left! The other four sheered. @Spin Doctor
Ahhh! That's how the dash attaches, lol. Thanks for posting this. My PO had the dash re-apolstered and the screw holes were covered. Now I C!there are 5 screws that go under dash pad that will snug it up nicely View attachment 2590376