Following for the reply.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (72 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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777Gage
SILVER Star
FYI.....
If you can, try to get in touch with someone there. I had the same issue with a Dealer in AZ earlier this year when I bought mine online. 3 days after I ordered it, received an email saying shipping was going to more than double. I called the dealership and the parts guy assumed it was a giant LC dash not a skinny/light FJ40 dash pad.
So he initially thought the shipping rate was way off, but told me that if it arrived at the dealership and was small like I said, he would honor the original shipping quote.
A week later it arrived at the original price.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
I picked it up from Amayama. A month ago they were around $270 (but it looks like they dropped in price). I just had to reuse the rear retainer off the old one, then screw & snap the pad in place.
I've ordered a lot of parts from Amayama over the years for our other Yota's and haven't had an issue. Most the time it arrives faster than getting something from the opposite coast.
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I recommend to drill the inner structure off if you want to get rid of rusting.Here’s a good illustration of why people say to strip the paint before you start patching stuff. I knew the over lapping brace had compromised the bottom edge of the bib. It’s a pretty classic spot for rust and this rig is from the north east so...
But take look at the circled area here. You can just start to see some bubbling. Not to bad...
Then you get it back from the blaster
All in all, I can’t complain that was the only spot I saw on my quick inspection that I didn’t already know about already. So far I’m stoked on the dustless blasting. It cost a little more than I hoped. He said it was because he didn’t realize I was going to bring a pile of parts. I guess most people bring the whole car assembled. In the long run though they were able to get 99% of the paint and rust off, largely due to the fact that I cut the rear tub off and you really see in behind the dash. The bright side is it really did show me everything that I had to work on and how good much of really is.
My real dilemma is I have a brand new Gozzard fiberglass bib that never made it on a different rig. This is no car show queen and it would save me a ton of time to simply swap in that unit. Part of me loves the idea of more original body parts, but I left the purist fork in road behind with the Aqualu 3/4 tub. While the passenger fender didn’t have any surprises, it needs some work and once again I have a Gozzard fender skin that never made it on the other project. I’ll sit on these repairs for a bit and think about it while I patch the floorboards and driver fender. On the bright spot the windshield was in great shape and I was worried from all the photos I’ve seen on mud after people having them stripped.
Looked ok...
...but it was full of rust pitting, went through in many spots.
Fixed.
SikaPower 4720 panel adhesive between the inner part and plug welded in couple spots.
When you say "retainer" are you speaking of the metal piece that lines the interior or the void?
firemanj92
SILVER Star
The retainer (# 55449-600100) secures to the windshield side of the back of the pad with bend out tabs. It's attached with small screws to the pad. It's function is to secure the top/back of pad to the length of windshield (with bend out tabs on the "panel #55381 of windshield). The rest of the pad is secured by 5 screws and 2 knobs on the front side. You should not need the spacers as they are formed/built into the safety pad (55404-600110, 55404-90300 & 90301 depending on year) nor the retainer if you had a pad already.
I just saw a video on youtube that someone posted a week ago how they removed/installed the pad.
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My #55381 is rusted/pitted. The #55433A is good. Thanks.
6f40j9
SILVER Star
Got back to it.
would you mind terribly taking another photo of the yellow door jamb showing the bump/indent for the switch that controls the "B" pillar post light on later models. Thanks
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Only picture I have of the bump on the A pillar side of the 10/82+ doors.
Here is the bracket on the A pillar for switch.
FJ40 I backed off at 110
... bricks are not very aerodynamic
Finally took it in and got an exhaust burned in. Had an O2 bung placed for my Holley Sniper addition. And of course replaced all SAE hardware the hot rod shop used with metric bits
I have the "A" pillar brackets. I want to reproduce the "bump" of the doors. Thank you.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Running from the law in a 40!
More info on that bad boy please, what engine and tranny are you running?
Catching Neutral
GOLD Star
I do not think mine would go 110 mph if you dropped it out of a C-17 at 20000 feet.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I'm curious of the whole running gear including tires. 95 MPH and tachometer only at 3K RPM. This highlights my opinion the size fits all approach of a 8K tachometer is wasted on most 40 series.
Dakota can make the change to a 5k tach for not a lot of money. They need a lot of money to change to anything else.
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Voodoo, what is that "P" dash item? Is it to do with the braking system? If so, where did you get it? TIA
That an E stopp parking / emergency brake. Very cool product but requires rear disc brakes w p brake calipers. I’ve thought about adapting them to pull the stock drum brake p brakes on newer axles, or even on the t case... just thoughts for now.
