How well does the epoxy hold? I looked into restoring my ratty looking steering wheel and it was going to cost me $1000.00 I found one in EUC for $500.00
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
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Thanks for the response. I think apprehension is that I have never liked the lifting hooks. Seems like there is an opportunity for something bad to happen. However, my plan is to lift the engine then roll the truck under the engine to minimize moving the hoist around.
I like the idea @RevISK has and it works on the front easily enough. The back hook would require me to remove 2 head bolts which seems like it would be bad for the engine.
I am sure it will be fine, I just don't have much experience. Stay tuned, I am going to try this in the next week or so.
I think good epoxy would hold up really well with proper prep. Wow $500 for a steering wheel buy hey way better than a grand.
RevISK
SILVER Star
you'll be fine.
Prep wise I just cleaned it with purple power a few times and then alcohol before spraying it.
I used 2 coats for everything primer, color, and clear. I sprayed the primer and color the same day then let it sit for a few days before putting the clear on.
I thought about rigging up a dowel of some kind to hold it up and be able to paint both sides at once but ended up using a camera stand and then a couple jacks to flip it back and forth.
The rustoleum high fill primer worked really well smoothing out the high wear areas along the wheel and did a great job filling in some smaller scratches. I ran out and just used whatever other primer I had on hand.
Used the Behr black satin premium spray paint because it was on sale at HD. It turned out as nice as I wanted.
Rustoleum 2x satin clear to finish it off. I’ve used the automotive rustoleum clear on other parts and it doesn’t play nice consistently every time I have used it so I tried the non auto clear this time. The 2x sprays on heavy just a warning I had one run that screwed a section up otherwise it worked well.
The epoxy I tried something different using the gorilla glue ultimate epoxy. My cracks were pretty minor and I didn’t want to break out the dremel and cut it out to fill it in with more putty style epoxy like PC7 which is frequently recommended. The gorilla glue is more of a liquid epoxy and I wanted to see if it would push in more easily to fill the cracks as they were. It worked in some places and others it didn’t. Might have been my garage was on the cold side. Or I didn’t get it on quickly enough in some places instead of making another batch. The places it worked I sanded it down with 800 grit. The places it didn’t work basically peeled off. If I had more free time I would’ve tried the gorilla epoxy again or the pc7 but my two little kids keep the free time to a minimum these days.
The wheel wrap has been frequently mentioned on here the past few months which is how I saw it and everyone seems to like it including myself. You can get it on amazon link is below size xl1. Baseball stitch ended up looking pretty clean and tight. Between the wheel wrap and the horn button most of the wheel imperfections are out of sight anyways.
Leather Steering Wheel... Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084Q4LJQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I also looked at refurbished wheels and I know @Birdhead does a great job for a fair price as well. He has also posted info on mud regarding his process for refreshing these wheels. In the end I’m cheap, found the wheel used on a rusted out 55 locally for $100 then between paint, epoxy, and the wrap I’m in it for about $140.
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Nice write up.
I think I’ve perused every thread on the wheel rehab. Everyone has something different ref: Approach, materials and methodology. Like your wheel, the wheel on 2.0 is mostly a cosmetic rehab. I think the PO had one of those little, tiny annoying dogs that suffered from separation anxiety and took out its frustration on the steering wheel.
I think I’ve perused every thread on the wheel rehab. Everyone has something different ref: Approach, materials and methodology. Like your wheel, the wheel on 2.0 is mostly a cosmetic rehab. I think the PO had one of those little, tiny annoying dogs that suffered from separation anxiety and took out its frustration on the steering wheel.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
We supported the transmission/TC with a 800# dolly while moving it around. I second @RevISK on using bolts for the chain. Also, have a plan for how to rotate the engine, no matter how many times we readjusted the chains it settled at an angle that meant choosing that corner for the first mount.
That Harbor China <$50 load leveler very handy with a A frame and a 2 ton chainfalls on the I beam truck.
firemanj92
SILVER Star
You should talk to Jimmy @Birdhead about restoring your wheel
Early fj steering wheel restoration - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/early-fj-steering-wheel-restoration.972941/
For Sale - Ok. 1970-72 steering wheel $370 for steering wheel only. Removing after this weekend! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ok-1970-72-steering-wheel-370-for-steering-wheel-only-removing-after-this-weekend.1354179/
I edited it above but just to clarify one more thing I did primer and paint same day then let it dry for a few days. Wiped it with soapy water and dried it before putting the clear on.
Lots of different ways to do it. For minor imperfections and no huge cracks it’s a
job.
Project Wisdom Turns Folly. ‘73 frame came home yesterday. Ruff Stuff rear boxing kit means 20 rivets are coming out of the back. 16 were tended to yesterday. 1985 60 series power steering also negates 12 more rivets. Split transfer case means 4 more rivets become extinct for the transmission crossmember. 36 hot rivets, one grinder, one 3 lb. Hammer, and a large punch begging to be thrashed. The first 4 of 16 took way too long with just the grinder so I enlisted the Chinese Plasma Cutter. No comparison on ease of extraction. Not pretty but that’s what the metal glue gun is for.
I have never had one returned in over 10 years
Rebuilt my parking brake. I used the sor.com kit (SOR page 076 of your hymnal and the cost is $130), it has most all the parts needed, including a new seal. Also powder coated and painted the other parts for an Insta perfect photoshoot.
Also installed a "Speedi sleeve" as there was a pretty good groove on the shaft from the old seal. I think its installed correctly, it does not seat all the way at the bottom of the shaft as per the instructions. Pic and Advanced Auto part number below.
Also installed a "Speedi sleeve" as there was a pretty good groove on the shaft from the old seal. I think its installed correctly, it does not seat all the way at the bottom of the shaft as per the instructions. Pic and Advanced Auto part number below.
Finished the drivers side rear quarter panel and got the sill cover in as well. Amazingly everything lined up. Even the tire carrier catch holes. I didn’t get to far on the passengers side as I was getting tired of gluing metal. I broke out the navy jelly again and cleaned up most of the bed. Then used some rust converter on what was left. I’ll topcoat it all with some penetrol.
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Build: 1973 FJ40 Major Payne
Lazy Sunday. Doing small stuff and contemplating getting dressed to weld… Grille is finally decent enough to mount. I had to strip and paint it twice. Also, I didn’t attempt to flatten any of the dents. Used some of the leftover hardware I had plated from a previous project. Some Naval Jelly and...
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Was that a stainless steel hood hook that wore out?
New old stock or available still ?