What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (16 Viewers)

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I had our local Land Cruiser shop change out my AHC fluid at just under 84,000 miles. I bought the LX used about 10,000+ miles ago and it seemed like it was not always consistent in the way it dropped. I figured the PO had never changed it, and I was right. After the change, the rig gave me a nice, even, fast drop when I shut it off but that was nothing compared to how much smoother and nicer it drove on the way home. It was already really good, just got better. They charged me $215 total for those that are curious.
 
I had our local Land Cruiser shop change out my AHC fluid at just under 84,000 miles. I bought the LX used about 10,000+ miles ago and it seemed like it was not always consistent in the way it dropped. I figured the PO had never changed it, and I was right. After the change, the rig gave me a nice, even, fast drop when I shut it off but that was nothing compared to how much smoother and nicer it drove on the way home. It was already really good, just got better. They charged me $215 total for those that are curious.
Seems like a good price for maintenance and the results. I test-drove a LX570 and man they are so smooth!
 
Which one do you like better? You have to choose one! 😁
If I had to pick, likely the 200.

Although, out of my fleet? The 300. 😈

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If I had to pick, likely the 200.

Although, out of my fleet? The 300. 😈

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OH~~!! you just had to throw that in there huh? 😜 What a nice ride. Next you should get the LX700h Overtrail ! After test driving a LX570 it's been on my mind quite heavily. I just won my stolen Collector's Edition 80 (3X locked) back on auction (what a crazy story this has been) and might consider selling it for a 200. Or maybe I need both 😁
 
I used TeCKis300's thread "Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX". With the Patagonia M/T 02 I couldn't get the mud flap trick to work without heavy rubbing. I didn't need to trim the body mount brackets. I have 1.25" instead of the 1" wheel spacers and i catch the upper fender lip and inter liner pretty bad. I'm still working out the kinks, leaning towards some 1/4" bump stop extensions until I have time to figure out a permanent solution. I also used the same size spare listed in TeCKis300's post but the Patagonia's are a little taller I put it in the spare location, but it probably doesn't have enough room for most people maybe an 1/8" of room between it and the control arm.

Front upper fender at full compression.
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Spare gap between control arm.
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Nice, looking good!!

You're running a pretty aggressive offset on those and yes, it'll get into the fenders. The rear as well on a square compression situation, aka double stuff. You'll have to decide if you want to work on clearing against the fender with the offset you have now (+28mm), or clearing against the UCA with a 1" spacer (+35mm offset). Limiting uptravel front and rear is an option I guess.

If you're looking to deal with the fender side, there's a few strategies including rolling the fenders.

Take a look at my sig for links to fitting 37s as I use the same offset you have now but with a body lift. A lot of those same strategies apply.
 
OH~~!! you just had to throw that in there huh? 😜 What a nice ride. Next you should get the LX700h Overtrail ! After test driving a LX570 it's been on my mind quite heavily. I just won my stolen Collector's Edition 80 (3X locked) back on auction (what a crazy story this has been) and might consider selling it for a 200. Or maybe I need both 😁
BOTH if you have the space!
 
Installed Mark's 4*4 speedo corrector.

A 6% correction on 295/70/18 tires put it back to spot on. Cruise control is also corrected.
With exchange rate it was $320 shipped to CA

Oooh, tell us more. How was the install?
 
New truestart battery - hard to beat price and warranty (assuming it’s easy to leverage). Original panny was almost 4 yrs old and showing signs of sluggish starting. I may be an outlier, but my Panasonic battery had sulfated enough to cause some paint to come off black hold down. Scrubbed that sh*t off and touched up with some spray paint. New one is in and working as it should.
 
It’s come to my attention that some of you may have a parts kink. Here’s some fresh meat for you.

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Prebuilt hub and bearing assemblies from @cruiseroutfit. These things are absolute units.

I was going to tackle this weekend but I realized that my torque wrench tops out at 150 lb-ft and my hub socket is 3/4” drive so will have to wait.

Shiny and spinny and ready for another 15+ years of service.


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New truestart battery - hard to beat price and warranty (assuming it’s easy to leverage).
Toss the invoice in the glove box, you'll need that.
Outright replacement 0-24 months.
50%/50% 25-48 months.
75% consmer/25% Toyota 49-84 months.
 
Some of you will be aware I have sort of half-heartedly been "trying" to sell my Amazon Green/Oak LC200. In the meantime, I have been driving and loving it as much as the day I bought it. The Snowpocalypse of 2025 (I live in Lower Alabama) was quite a joyous celebration of LC200 awesomeness, as I lorded my effortless mobility over the plebes desperately trying, and in many instances failing miserably and comically, to drive on the public roads.

I did notice, however, that my brake wear indicators on the pads were making a faint noise once in a while, so I started looking for new pads, and added some Disc Brakes Australia SD pads in my @sleeoffroad cart, figuring they'd likely arrive just in time from CO to drop in and restore the brake function to factory levels, and maybe better. About now, many of you will be thinking "wait, what wear indicators?" And you would be correct. I took the 200 to the shop, and found out that the sound I heard was unfortunately backing plates making contact with the rotors. :oops: Well, that's not good.

So I added some Disc Brakes Australia DBA T3 rotors to the cart. And it made sense that if the fronts were gone, I should probably do the rears, right? So I added matching fresh pads and rotors for the rear, too. Oh, and while I'm in there, it would be criminal if I didn't get some braided stainless Slee Off-Road brake lines, too.

I took all that to the shop that was scheduled to do the work, and expected to pick it up the next day. Then I got a phone call from the shop, and they said each of the front calipers had a seized piston! Which is why the pad didn't wear evenly and that's what caused the backing plate to contact the rotor. So that led to a new front pair of Toyota calipers. Obviously fresh fluid was required, since the system was opened up, so I had them flush and bleed the whole thing, too.

The happy ending is that these DBA brakes are F#(&!*@ AWESOME. Seriously. They're kinda TOO good, with the current booster ratio. Other than the equally modified and upgraded brakes on my 2003 BMW 330i ZHP sedan, they are the best brakes on any of the eight cars I currently own, and it's not close.

So the moral of the story is if you need brakes for your 200, call the good folks at Slee (I talked to Jeff), and get them to send you the goods. You will not regret it.

For the #picsoritdidnthappen crowd... I only washed off this weeks dirt, so it needs a detail. Sue me. 😁
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Joined the big boy club yesterday.
One owner 2017, Blue Onyx Pearl, Terra interior, 112k, dealer serviced every 5k. I've never seen a cleaner Toyota service history, clean carfax. NJ car it's entire life, but very, very clean underneath.
Was traded in at my buddies BMW dealership last Thursday on a new X7. I had to stretch myself real thin, but was able to pull it off.
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Joined the big boy club yesterday.
One owner 2017, Blue Onyx Pearl, Terra interior, 112k, dealer serviced every 5k. I've never seen a cleaner Toyota service history, clean carfax. NJ car it's entire life, but very, very clean underneath.
Was traded in at my buddies BMW dealership last Thursday on a new X7. I had to stretch myself real thin, but was able to pull it off.View attachment 3856151View attachment 3856152
congrats!!

glad you stuck with the best 16+ version
 

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