What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (17 Viewers)

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Installed an Ultra Gauge 3 and fixed an issue with the auto rain sensor where it wasn’t properly affixed to the windshield.

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Got my Scangauge 3 with the mount ordered as a bundle from Spiker Engineering. Did modify the attachment on the mount for the magnetic one which comes with the Scangauge 3 and combined both. Also put some aluminum tape on the back for the sun, probably a marginal improvement although all small bits help heat wise. May still bend the mount a bit to get the optimum angle to the driver although it can now also be more easily watched from the passenger side.

Already set alarms on coolant temp (at 230 degr F) and AT temp 1 (at 230 degr F as well). May still adjust does researching that some more.

Also getting the reported 408 or 418 degr F from the coolant sensor upon shutdown which triggers the alarm until it turns off 15 sec later. I may look at writing Scangauge to see if they can provide a software update which immediately shuts down the system upon seeing 0 rpm. Already tried the "COM" mode as suggested for hybrids and start/stop vehicles, but that obviously does not resolve the issue. In fact prolongs the gauge and alarm shutdown beyond the vehicle stop communicating to the scangauge and then 15 sec more...

All in all happy for when I am towing and to prevent a serious overheating event due to a coolant issue or when the transmission is somehow pushed harder than I want. Now hope it will not drain the battery to much when parked say a week.

P.S. I did noticed on a test drive that the vehicle temp gauge gets to its normal point when the coolant gets to around 150 degr F and as it went up to 168 degr F (cool at the moment in the Houston area and the test drive was short) the dash needle did not move at all. I will watch this some more, however confirms the gauge is not lineair and not really helpful in many respects. I am also not aware whether a dash light will flash when the car is overheating, another thing Toyota should have looked at and include in another wise fantastic engineered and build vehicle...

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Mount with modified magnetic attachment instead of dual sided tape. Provides some positon flexibility and removal when parked in the full sun when for example camping.
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This post really should be what have I done to my 200 series this week that I really did not need to do. Since I bought my new to me LC the driver's side window has had a terrible scratch on the inside from what looked like a small rock getting caught between the window and the trim. There were also other scratches from I assume the previous owner's dog.

It bugged me enough that during one of the sales I bought a new OEM window to install. Today was a nice day so decided to tackle the project. I found this video helpful. Armed with my new spiffy trim tool I got the door panel off without any problem. I figured out how get the window unbolted and pulled that sucker out.

I then looked at the window carefully. Surprise!! The window was not scratched but the tinting was scratched. I had looked before but did see any signs of tinting. Since the window was out I removed the old tinting and cleaned all of the glue off. I then re-installed the window. The only PITA was the right side bolt for the window. There is a small access 1" hole and the alignment is not perfect so getting the bolt to thread took a few tries. I eventually held the window track from inside the door and got the bolt aligned. Once that was done I tested everything and buttoned everything back up.

The coup-de-grace is that while I doing all that I did not realize the headlights were on so I killed the battery. Fortunately I inherited a battery charger so solved that issue while cleaning the window.

Tomorrow I will make an appointment with our local window tint shop and have the window tint replaced. I am sure he like everyone else will get a laugh out of my Sunday afternoon of fun. And please do laugh as now that it is done I am laughing as well. Well sort of. And if anyone needs a driver's side OEM glass let me know.
Well done. I replaced my side windows with laminated ones from the LX570. In order to get to both the front and rear attachment points and bolts you can remove the loudspeaker and lower the window about 80 to 90%. That provides easy and good access. Options when you get in there somehow a second time...

Note that I installed dynamat on the inside of the door so it looks slightly different, however access by lowering the window works well. You can also do after you remove the door panel and just connect the window controller temporarily.
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Well done. I replaced my side windows with laminated ones from the LX570. In order to get to both the front and rear attachment points and bolts you can remove the loudspeaker and lower the window about 80 to 90%. That provides easy and good access. Options when you get in there somehow a second time...

Note that I installed dynamat on the inside of the door so it looks slightly different, however access by lowering the window works well. You can also do after you remove the door panel and just connect the window controller temporarily.
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I did not think about removing the speaker but that would have certainly helped. But once I figured out I could stick my arm into the door that worked as I could use my fingers to align the bolt. The Dynamat seems like a good replacement things never quite go back together. I used some electrical tape to fix a few bits.

BTW I did search for a post you might have made on the process but did not find anything.
 
I did not think about removing the speaker but that would have certainly helped. But once I figured out I could stick my arm into the door that worked as I could use my fingers to align the bolt. The Dynamat seems like a good replacement things never quite go back together. I used some electrical tape to fix a few bits.

BTW I did search for a post you might have made on the process but did not find anything.
Yeah, never got to reporting out how I did those window replacements. Should have...
 
Oooh, tell us more. How was the install?

I used Mark's 4*4 corrector from Aussie.
Per my conversation with them, it's display only. The odometer isn't/can't be corrected
The Mark's 4x4 page is a 404 on it, but here's the manual.

It's a CAN Bus Interrupter at the dash, rather than at the VSS. So that would give credence to the ODO not being affect as well as not aggravating the shift points. I wonder if with US 200's if it trues up both the digital and the dial spedo or if just the dial.

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The Mark's 4x4 page is a 404 on it, but here's the manual.

It's a CAN Bus Interrupter at the dash, rather than at the VSS. So that would give credence to the ODO not being affect as well as not aggravating the shift points. I wonder if with US 200's if it trues up both the digital and the dial spedo or if just the dial.

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It trues up the digital too, if you mean the digital mph in the centre of the cluster
 
congrats!!

glad you stuck with the best 16+ version
Awesome rig! As @ryanCA mentioned - 2016+ 200s are the prototypical LC spec model all other strive for and fail at achieving!
A month or so ago I told my buddy in a year or two from now, after selling off a bit of my fleet, I'd like to buy a nice, clean, one owner 16+. I guess the LC God's heard me... They just moved the timetable up a bit!
Love that color, especially with bronze wheels.

Congrats!
Thanks! I'd love to find some HE wheels or even TRD BBS's but that's a bit down the line...
Blue onyx terra is the primo combo for 2016+. Better than any HE. Sorry HE bros.
I honestly thought it was black when my buddy first sent me the pictures. I got to say I absolutely love the Blue Onyx and I love the terra as well.
What a gorgeous color combo! Congrats on the new rig.
Thanks!
How about Blue, Terra, and the HE wheels?
Perfection! Someday...
Nice!!!! Give us a quick rundown on the comparison with your LX470 please.
Honestly? They are significantly more different than I thought they would be.

I started typing up an entire list but it will take me the entire night. I'll sit down and do it eventually.
200 > 100, though there's a few things that the 100 does better.
That's the cliffs notes

I also have to say, I had to sell my trusty, daily 330xi e46 to buy this, and it's beyond ironic I sold a BMW, to buy a Toyota from a BMW dealer.
Unfortunately the LX470 and my 49k mile Marauder will be next in line to be sold. The LR3 will have to step it up for winter beater duty from hear on out.
 
A month or so ago I told my buddy in a year or two from now, after selling off a bit of my fleet, I'd like to buy a nice, clean, one owner 16+. I guess the LC God's heard me... They just moved the timetable up a bit!

Thanks! I'd love to find some HE wheels or even TRD BBS's but that's a bit down the line...

I honestly thought it was black when my buddy first sent me the pictures. I got to say I absolutely love the Blue Onyx and I love the terra as well.

Thanks!

Perfection! Someday...

Honestly? They are significantly more different than I thought they would be.

I started typing up an entire list but it will take me the entire night. I'll sit down and do it eventually.
200 > 100, though there's a few things that the 100 does better.
That's the cliffs notes

I also have to say, I had to sell my trusty, daily 330xi e46 to buy this, and it's beyond ironic I sold a BMW, to buy a Toyota from a BMW dealer.
Unfortunately the LX470 and my 49k mile Marauder will be next in line to be sold. The LR3 will have to step it up for winter beater duty from hear on out.
lc gods definitely prefer the 16+

i love my 100

but 200 > 100 as you said

i want to lick your terra
 
I was on the fence, but figured I should wait 'till my old style craps out.
Yeah, it's probably not worth it if upgrading from the original twin. But this is an install in a truck without one.
 
Yeah, it's probably not worth it if upgrading from the original twin. But this is an install in a truck without one.
Any plans to document install? Have you been able to tell if they drop in to the same mounting and such as the original?

I don’t plan to upgrade but will admit I like the direction they are going with the new model.
 
Any plans to document install? Have you been able to tell if they drop in to the same mounting and such as the original?

I don’t plan to upgrade but will admit I like the direction they are going with the new model.
Hasn't even shipped yet. The twin does have a new quick-release base. Not sure if I'll be using that or direct mounting to the Slee bracket I have waiting. Looks like the same form factor.
 
Any plans to document install? Have you been able to tell if they drop in to the same mounting and such as the original?

I don’t plan to upgrade but will admit I like the direction they are going with the new model.
Slee has come out with a new mount plate that includes holes for the old and new.. My other concern about a switch over is whether the old version power cable can be reused. I cut that original harness to length and combined it with other power cables I was running in the engine compartment. I would hope the plug remains the existing 5-pin MetriPak, but I could rePin if needed and cable sizes didn't go up.

*** Update *** well Slee have now posted more information. The old mount can be drilled out to fit the the new Brushless, however the old harness in snot compatible.

 
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Slee has come out with a new mount plate that includes holes for the old and new.. My other concern about a switch over is whether the old version power cable can be reused. I cut that original harness to length and combined it with other power cables I was running in the engine compartment. I would hope the plug remains the existing 5-pin MetriPak, but I could rePin if needed and cable sizes didn't go up.

*** Update *** well Slee have now posted more information. The old mount can be drilled out to fit the the new Brushless, however the old harness in snot compatible.

Thanks! Hadn't seen that. I'll print it out for reference when it gets here.
 
Those look really sharp. How much lift did it create and is there any rubbing? How do you like so far for DD in terms of noise and comfort? Thanks...
I didn’t measure but looks like maybe an inch. No rubbing at full lock in either direction. I’ve only had it for a few days but it’s much more comfortable and powerful than my 80 series. It is definitely quieter. So far I’m very impressed.
 
Took apart the dash to install CarPlay

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Got a cable stuck, whoops, had to disassemble some more

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Cleaned up the cables and just barely had enough space under the glovebox to mount everything -

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Got it all buttoned up and it works great. Huge upgrade!

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Took apart the dash to install CarPlay

OrbEjKu.jpg


Got a cable stuck, whoops, had to disassemble some more

tF6zTej.jpg


Cleaned up the cables and just barely had enough space under the glovebox to mount everything -

T8sJJxr.jpg


Got it all buttoned up and it works great. Huge upgrade!

zHBSoxZ.jpg
Same here. Is it Beatsonic? It is definitely a MF to pull those trim pieces out and, yes, the cables are just enough to link everything and jam it under the glove box. Got some nice cuts in my fingers after all said and done. It is absolutely worth it though. CP is the only thing missing in a 200HE.
 
Same here. Is it Beatsonic? It is definitely a MF to pull those trim pieces out and, yes, the cables are just enough to link everything and jam it under the glove box. Got some nice cuts in my fingers after all said and done. It is absolutely worth it though. CP is the only thing missing in a 200HE.
Yeah Beatsonic. Agreed, feels like a proper modern vehicle now.
 

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