What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (28 Viewers)

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Was it easy dealing with the parking brake?
I didn't mess with the parking brake pads, just make sure it's not engaged when you're doing the rears
 
I didn't mess with the parking brake pads, just make sure it's not engaged when you're doing the rears
I put those brakes on my LX last year, no problems.
Re the parking brake, it seemed pretty weak, adjusting did not improve it. So I ordered new parking brake pads. No difference. IMO, not worth screwing with.
 
A well-adjusted parking brake on a 200 works really well.

But yes the adjustment is quite finicky.. even requiring a fish scale to perform correctly.
 
How much break pedal travel do you get before they start to engage? Mine seems to go a long way before starting to have any effect; maybe 1.5"
 
How much break pedal travel do you get before they start to engage? Mine seems to go a long way before starting to have any effect; maybe 1.5"
Define engage? Handle getting hard to pull? Actual friction at the brakes?

The factory spec is 5-7 clicks with 45 pounds of force. To get that dialed in you must adjust both the star wheel within each rear brake drum and the adjuster nut under the cup holders.
 
Define engage? Handle getting hard to pull? Actual friction at the brakes?

The factory spec is 5-7 clicks with 45 pounds of force. To get that dialed in you must adjust both the star wheel within each rear brake drum and the adjuster nut under the cup holders.
Break pedal, not the parking break.
 
How much break pedal travel do you get before they start to engage? Mine seems to go a long way before starting to have any effect; maybe 1.5"

I don't know exactly but longer pedal travel is a characteristic of this truck. It's firstly a 4x4 truck rather than a street biased SUV. I find it's really tuned well for the type of off-road work it can do with smooth modulation. A big contrast to my aggressive sports cars. Spend some time with it and it'll feel natural and make more sense. Just like the heavier steering.
 
A well-adjusted parking brake on a 200 works really well.

But yes the adjustment is quite finicky.. even requiring a fish scale to perform correctly.
Definitely finicky. I did it myself after an Indy shop couldn’t get it done and said I needed to replace the cable. Took more star wheel turns than stated in the FSM but knowing the “zero point” where it starts to drag is subjective and takes “feel” and “feel” takes reps. After about 3 attempts, I got it to keep the truck parked on an incline. The amount of drag with park brake off is more than seems right but it does wear in. The fish scale thing is real too. The FSM says 45 lbf and 5 clicks (I think). 45 lbs is more than 99% of people think and most people do not put anywhere near that on a hand brake. I ended up needing 6 clicks and 50 lbs to hold it on anything steep.
 
Definitely finicky. I did it myself after an Indy shop couldn’t get it done and said I needed to replace the cable. Took more star wheel turns than stated in the FSM but knowing the “zero point” where it starts to drag is subjective and takes “feel” and “feel” takes reps. After about 3 attempts, I got it to keep the truck parked on an incline. The amount of drag with park brake off is more than seems right but it does wear in. The fish scale thing is real too. The FSM says 45 lbf and 5 clicks (I think). 45 lbs is more than 99% of people think and most people do not put anywhere near that on a hand brake. I ended up needing 6 clicks and 50 lbs to hold it on anything steep.
Yep. Same results for me. But I originally thought it was an emergency brake, and I should be able to lock up the rears at high speed. Nope, not even close. As a parking brake, it will hold the truck stationary on a moderate hill, but that’s about it. I guess those little brake drums and shoes are too small to do much else, no matter how much force one use on the handle.
 
Took more star wheel turns than stated in the FSM but knowing the “zero point” where it starts to drag is subjective and takes “feel” and “feel” takes reps. After about 3 attempts, I got it to keep the truck parked on an incline. The amount of drag with park brake off is more than seems right but it does wear in.
100% agree. I actually have started backing both sides out, adjust one, and since there is no drag on the other side (the differential means that side turns during adjustment) it’s easier to dial in. I then back it out, making note of the setting, before doing the other side. I then set the first side to the noted setting, and after all that do the handle adjustment.

There is also the reality that if you put old shoes onto new rotors/drums your adjustment is going to shift quickly as the shoes with the larger diameter wear in to the new drum with the smaller diameter. That will make the shoes contact more on the ends than the center.

Yep. Same results for me. But I originally thought it was an emergency brake, and I should be able to lock up the rears at high speed. Nope, not even close. As a parking brake, it will hold the truck stationary on a moderate hill, but that’s about it. I guess those little brake drums and shoes are too small to do much else, no matter how much force one use on the handle.

The torsen center diff would make locking the rears really difficult even if that was the intent. And possibly destroy the transfer case in the process.

It will ultimately slow the vehicle though…
 
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100% agree. I actually have started backing both sides out, adjust one, and since there is no drag on the other side (the differential means that side turns during adjustment) it’s easier to dial in. I then back it out, making note of the setting, before doing the other side. I then set the first side to the noted setting, and after all that do the handle adjustment.

There is also the reality that if you put old shoes onto new rotors/drums your adjustment is going to shift quickly as the shoes with the larger diameter wear in to the new drum with the smaller diameter. That will make the shoes contact more on the ends than the

The torsen center diff would make locking the rears really difficult even if that was the intent. And possibly destroy the transfer case in the process.

It will ultimately slow the vehicle though…
I would agree if the parking brake ever got used very much while in motion. I know that as thin as my old shoes were, the new ones were just as thin. I seem to recall that the shoes are only pushed out from the bottom while pulling the hand brake, so maybe the bottom of the shoe gets most of the force on the drum. I’m just glad I tried using that brake in some different scenarios to see how effective it is.
 
I would agree if the parking brake ever got used very much while in motion. I know that as thin as my old shoes were, the new ones were just as thin. I seem to recall that the shoes are only pushed out from the bottom while pulling the hand brake, so maybe the bottom of the shoe gets most of the force on the drum. I’m just glad I tried using that brake in some different scenarios to see how effective it is.
As @kcjaz brought up when they are adjusted correctly they actually drag a bit, which to me says they are intended to wear in, at least very slightly. Whether they open at the top or bottom, I’m pretty sure it is a minuscule movement.. and when you consider how much force is needed at the shoe vs how hard the average person can reasonably pull with their hand, this makes sense.

But I agree, anyone expecting a screeching emergency stop will be disappointed. I’m just glad I don’t have a manual transmission given my use in the mountains.
 
As @kcjaz brought up when they are adjusted correctly they actually drag a bit, which to me says they are intended to wear in, at least very slightly. Whether they open at the top or bottom, I’m pretty sure it is a minuscule movement.. and when you consider how much force is needed at the shoe vs how hard the average person can reasonably pull with their hand, this makes sense.

But I agree, anyone expecting a screeching emergency stop will be disappointed. I’m just glad I don’t have a manual transmission given my use in the mountains.
It really probably should have been a foot pedal rather than a hand brake.
 
I just picked up a set of RW wheels and have ordered these center caps from R3dCreations on Etsy for my white 2017 LX. I'm going with Falken AT4w 285/70R17 tires. Other than tires, we'll be twins. I'm not sure when I'm doing the tire upgrade but I'll post pics when I do.
 
As my son would say crusty, musty, dusty, rusty?

Rust is foreign to me being in the southwest. I would think any lesser cars wouldn't fare better? Makes me wonder about the LC 250 and how they have structural parts 1/3 the thickness of our rigs.
 
Installed OEM coil spacers to level out the truck a bit front to back and played around with KDSS to level side to side. Finally I'm able to move out of position 5 on the headlight height adjustment!
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After reading a post by @dudemancool1904 , I pulled the trigger on 5 Cooper Discoverer AT3s that were heavily discounted. Significantly smoother and quieter ride than the worn out Yokohama Geolandar's that had around 50k miles.
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Then, not even knowing I had a problem, I stumbled across a thread about non-functioning cabin air recirculating flap. Sure enough, mine was broken, but @Oakleyguy to the rescue. 25 minutes start to finish installation and now I can choose fresh cabin air like a boss.
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As my son would say crusty, musty, dusty, rusty?

Rust is foreign to me being in the southwest. I would think any lesser cars wouldn't fare better? Makes me wonder about the LC 250 and how they have structural parts 1/3 the thickness of our rigs.

I occasionally get intrusive thoughts about starting over with a southern 2016+ LX570. This slee build occupies a lot of space in my head:



But at this point most of the brittle bits and rubber have been replaced. And I like being married.
 

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