prwillard2
SILVER Star
I didn't mess with the parking brake pads, just make sure it's not engaged when you're doing the rearsWas it easy dealing with the parking brake?
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I didn't mess with the parking brake pads, just make sure it's not engaged when you're doing the rearsWas it easy dealing with the parking brake?
I put those brakes on my LX last year, no problems.I didn't mess with the parking brake pads, just make sure it's not engaged when you're doing the rears
Define engage? Handle getting hard to pull? Actual friction at the brakes?How much break pedal travel do you get before they start to engage? Mine seems to go a long way before starting to have any effect; maybe 1.5"
Break pedal, not the parking break.Define engage? Handle getting hard to pull? Actual friction at the brakes?
The factory spec is 5-7 clicks with 45 pounds of force. To get that dialed in you must adjust both the star wheel within each rear brake drum and the adjuster nut under the cup holders.
How much break pedal travel do you get before they start to engage? Mine seems to go a long way before starting to have any effect; maybe 1.5"
Definitely finicky. I did it myself after an Indy shop couldn’t get it done and said I needed to replace the cable. Took more star wheel turns than stated in the FSM but knowing the “zero point” where it starts to drag is subjective and takes “feel” and “feel” takes reps. After about 3 attempts, I got it to keep the truck parked on an incline. The amount of drag with park brake off is more than seems right but it does wear in. The fish scale thing is real too. The FSM says 45 lbf and 5 clicks (I think). 45 lbs is more than 99% of people think and most people do not put anywhere near that on a hand brake. I ended up needing 6 clicks and 50 lbs to hold it on anything steep.A well-adjusted parking brake on a 200 works really well.
But yes the adjustment is quite finicky.. even requiring a fish scale to perform correctly.
Yep. Same results for me. But I originally thought it was an emergency brake, and I should be able to lock up the rears at high speed. Nope, not even close. As a parking brake, it will hold the truck stationary on a moderate hill, but that’s about it. I guess those little brake drums and shoes are too small to do much else, no matter how much force one use on the handle.Definitely finicky. I did it myself after an Indy shop couldn’t get it done and said I needed to replace the cable. Took more star wheel turns than stated in the FSM but knowing the “zero point” where it starts to drag is subjective and takes “feel” and “feel” takes reps. After about 3 attempts, I got it to keep the truck parked on an incline. The amount of drag with park brake off is more than seems right but it does wear in. The fish scale thing is real too. The FSM says 45 lbf and 5 clicks (I think). 45 lbs is more than 99% of people think and most people do not put anywhere near that on a hand brake. I ended up needing 6 clicks and 50 lbs to hold it on anything steep.
100% agree. I actually have started backing both sides out, adjust one, and since there is no drag on the other side (the differential means that side turns during adjustment) it’s easier to dial in. I then back it out, making note of the setting, before doing the other side. I then set the first side to the noted setting, and after all that do the handle adjustment.Took more star wheel turns than stated in the FSM but knowing the “zero point” where it starts to drag is subjective and takes “feel” and “feel” takes reps. After about 3 attempts, I got it to keep the truck parked on an incline. The amount of drag with park brake off is more than seems right but it does wear in.
Yep. Same results for me. But I originally thought it was an emergency brake, and I should be able to lock up the rears at high speed. Nope, not even close. As a parking brake, it will hold the truck stationary on a moderate hill, but that’s about it. I guess those little brake drums and shoes are too small to do much else, no matter how much force one use on the handle.
I would agree if the parking brake ever got used very much while in motion. I know that as thin as my old shoes were, the new ones were just as thin. I seem to recall that the shoes are only pushed out from the bottom while pulling the hand brake, so maybe the bottom of the shoe gets most of the force on the drum. I’m just glad I tried using that brake in some different scenarios to see how effective it is.100% agree. I actually have started backing both sides out, adjust one, and since there is no drag on the other side (the differential means that side turns during adjustment) it’s easier to dial in. I then back it out, making note of the setting, before doing the other side. I then set the first side to the noted setting, and after all that do the handle adjustment.
There is also the reality that if you put old shoes onto new rotors/drums your adjustment is going to shift quickly as the shoes with the larger diameter wear in to the new drum with the smaller diameter. That will make the shoes contact more on the ends than the
The torsen center diff would make locking the rears really difficult even if that was the intent. And possibly destroy the transfer case in the process.
It will ultimately slow the vehicle though…
As @kcjaz brought up when they are adjusted correctly they actually drag a bit, which to me says they are intended to wear in, at least very slightly. Whether they open at the top or bottom, I’m pretty sure it is a minuscule movement.. and when you consider how much force is needed at the shoe vs how hard the average person can reasonably pull with their hand, this makes sense.I would agree if the parking brake ever got used very much while in motion. I know that as thin as my old shoes were, the new ones were just as thin. I seem to recall that the shoes are only pushed out from the bottom while pulling the hand brake, so maybe the bottom of the shoe gets most of the force on the drum. I’m just glad I tried using that brake in some different scenarios to see how effective it is.
It really probably should have been a foot pedal rather than a hand brake.As @kcjaz brought up when they are adjusted correctly they actually drag a bit, which to me says they are intended to wear in, at least very slightly. Whether they open at the top or bottom, I’m pretty sure it is a minuscule movement.. and when you consider how much force is needed at the shoe vs how hard the average person can reasonably pull with their hand, this makes sense.
But I agree, anyone expecting a screeching emergency stop will be disappointed. I’m just glad I don’t have a manual transmission given my use in the mountains.
I just picked up a set of RW wheels and have ordered these center caps from R3dCreations on Etsy for my white 2017 LX. I'm going with Falken AT4w 285/70R17 tires. Other than tires, we'll be twins. I'm not sure when I'm doing the tire upgrade but I'll post pics when I do.Installed my new center caps finally. Work great and almost look like an OEM option.
I got them from R3dCreations on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1663148530/toyota-trd-17-trd-rock-warrior-wheel?click_key=7b3e13203cfceac34779dcfd9b9611e9b487c8f1:1663148530&click_sum=73e3af6a&ref=shop_home_feat_4&frs=1&sts=1
As my son would say crusty, musty, dusty, rusty?
Rust is foreign to me being in the southwest. I would think any lesser cars wouldn't fare better? Makes me wonder about the LC 250 and how they have structural parts 1/3 the thickness of our rigs.