What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (47 Viewers)
- Thread starter MScruiser
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Hi MsCruiser, I bought the same setup as what you and Kreiten installed on your cruisers, the Ironman FCP kit (performance springs). I thought that the front end would be easy as compared to the rear, but not so. I installed the rear end last week, and while it was somewhat of a PITA, I am unable to remove the tie rod end. I tried the big hammer method with no success, and I bought a universal ball joint mechanical separator. I cranked on the bolt until the jaw was mostly closed, and no movement at all on the tie rod. With the separator on, I tapped on the side of the ball joint with a hammer, and still no movement. My plan was to remove the strut assembly and have my shop disassemble and reassemble with the existing top hat with the Toyota spacer. With all the trouble and effort that this has taken so far I felt that it was just easier to find a reputable shop to do this installation, and also to perform the alignment. I also installed the SPC UCA, and now I understand the importance of performing an alignment right after the installation; it was two weeks before I could take the vehicle to my shop, and my mechanic showed me how severely the tires were wearing from the inside to out.
On another note, I was going to ask you how much adjustment that you made to your front rings? I think that the factory setting is at 220 mm (about 8.7 in), and with the rear Ironmans installed, I have about a 4" rake from rear to front. Kreiten said that he thought that might have increased the height about 1/2" over the stock setting on the Ironman. I can't remember whether he has the Toyota spacer or not, and my goal is to level the LC out, so I need a total of about 4" of lift. I was originally going to set the rings at about 11.5" from the eye (which is about 3" over stock), and with the 1" spacer height, I think that I should be close to 4" total. I just wasn't sure whether 1" increase in the ring height translates to an 1" increase in the ride height, or is it more like 2" increase? I didn't see much in the forum on this topic, and was curious to see what you found out.
BTW, your videos on the diff and fluid case changes were VERY helpful, I had no problems changing out the fluids on my vehicle after reviewing your work. Thanks!
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Haven't started looking yet. AOE 4x4 in Laguna Niguel has done a lot of work on my 40 Series but I've not seen any 100's or 200's through the shop there. Also going to check in with the guys at Rebel Offroad to see if they're familiar with the newer LC's.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Thanks MScruiser, any hints on how much you went up on the adjustment rings on the front struts?
I have the Toyota spacers also, I think if you rolled the coilovers the way they come and put the Toyota spacer in you would have about 3.5 inches of lift up front (ISH)
@kreiten and @MScruiser, thank you both for the reply. So it sounds like going with 1" over stock with the spacers will get me pretty close to correcting the 4" rake. Glad that I checked in with you, I'm sure that it will save me quite a bit of time during the installation. Will let you know how it turns out in a few weeks.
@MScruiser, yes, there is currently a 4" rear to front height difference. The rear has the new Ironman springs and FCP shocks, while the front has the stock struts because I am unable to install the new coilovers. The original difference was around 2" with the stock suspension, so it looks like the new rear parts added another 2" to the height.
Got a pic? I'd love to see this
Took a dremel to my rear mud flaps. Still need to sand them up a bit.
08's (not sure about 09's) have Bluetooth for phone calls, just not music - twisted world, I know.
I'm fixing it. Yes, the pictured device will allow me to stream Pandora or whatever. There is also a USB port on the back of the device which I'll run my newly purchased black iphone cable out somewhere (around my ashtray) for charging only - pretty slick. I found this link which made me aware of the USB deal.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/adding-an-aftermarket-bluetooth-interface-to-factory-stereo-nav.820658/#post-9784173
I'm fixing it. Yes, the pictured device will allow me to stream Pandora or whatever. There is also a USB port on the back of the device which I'll run my newly purchased black iphone cable out somewhere (around my ashtray) for charging only - pretty slick. I found this link which made me aware of the USB deal.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/adding-an-aftermarket-bluetooth-interface-to-factory-stereo-nav.820658/#post-9784173
Agreed - it's a nice pick up
I took a bunch of photos and will do a write-up for those who purchase a 2008 and want to stream music. There is more to it than the thread I referenced above.
I took a bunch of photos and will do a write-up for those who purchase a 2008 and want to stream music. There is more to it than the thread I referenced above.
Nice, the 13s have both abilities luckily. I did put in the video and nag bypass from the prestigious society. Primarily for the Nav override. Watching family guy while sitting in traffic has never happened.
They do make a module that allows you to stream video from your phone also.
They do make a module that allows you to stream video from your phone also.
@uclafan
I've briefly mentioned this in other threads but I've never done a write up. I recently had to change one strut and I was able to do it without breaking the steering tie rod or UCA ball joint. It was the fastest I've ever changed a strut. I got the idea when I swapped out my LCAs. Here are two pictures with what to loosen. I don't have time to give you the long story but if you remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering spindle, remove the swaybar bolt from the LCA, Support the steering spindle and brakes, loosen the LCA bolts and allow it to swing out of the way and the struts can go in and out from below.
I've you're doing this as part of a full install and have the change to UCAs then you'll have to break the ball joint but that's not too hard. Breaking the steering is a beeech. (don't hit the brake guard.
Does all this make sense? Ant
(obviously you'll need an alignment immediately)
I've briefly mentioned this in other threads but I've never done a write up. I recently had to change one strut and I was able to do it without breaking the steering tie rod or UCA ball joint. It was the fastest I've ever changed a strut. I got the idea when I swapped out my LCAs. Here are two pictures with what to loosen. I don't have time to give you the long story but if you remove the two bolts from the bottom of the steering spindle, remove the swaybar bolt from the LCA, Support the steering spindle and brakes, loosen the LCA bolts and allow it to swing out of the way and the struts can go in and out from below.
I've you're doing this as part of a full install and have the change to UCAs then you'll have to break the ball joint but that's not too hard. Breaking the steering is a beeech. (don't hit the brake guard.
Does all this make sense? Ant
(obviously you'll need an alignment immediately)
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