What have you done to your 200 Series this week? (39 Viewers)

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Really scraped up the front and rear bumpers this season. Trimmed everything up a little. Mainly to cut out all the scrub but, have a much better departure and approach angle now.

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This weekend the LX got a little TLC in the logo department. Installed the standard LC200 rear insignia (the rest of the badging was long gone), and did a front logo delete for the plastic radar cover (which I've always hated). I went with the same gray (plus clear coat) that I recently used for restoring the RW plastic center caps. And I finally put on the factory TLC rain visors that I ordered from the Middle East like 2 years ago.

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Here's the latest (perhaps final) step in the Land-Cruiser-ification of my LX. I took a chance as I wasn't sure the fitment was going to work on the tailgate hatch trim, but there's just enough vertical space to work with. If anyone is similarly crazy, the Toyota part numbers for the badges are 75442-60150 and 75443-60040 (model year 98-02).

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Yeah, rear panels need to be uncliped from the rear to get the belt assembly out.

If you don't want to remove the drawers, I guess you can cut the belt, and just remove the upper mounting point.
You guys know if these bolts can be used in the big bolt locations on the wheel wells after the 3rd row seat delete as well?

 
Very tastefully done! More pics if you have them, especially the rear.
I’ll grab some for you.

I bumped a tree today scratching right under the headlight so the scratch Removal is now irrelevant.

But ran a few 5-6 rated trails and was walking up ledges without scraping plastic. Lowest point that would contact was the TT recover points (front and rear)… @turbo8 has a solution for that though. His would slide up and down nicely.
 
You guys know if these bolts can be used in the big bolt locations on the wheel wells after the 3rd row seat delete as well?

They only work where proper seatbelt anchors attach, since that is a federally mandated 7/16-20 thread. So an example would be the upper or lower seatbelt anchor for the second or third row.

If you show exactly which one you are referring to I can get the thread size and pitch but I don’t think those eye bolts will fit a seat anchor location.
 
Wheel and tire day :) Finally happy with the look of 17's. The old Nittos were on their last leg too

Method mr316 +25mm 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompsons
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How are the 4.88s + 35" combo?

Any rubbing?
It drives nice enough, feels pretty much stock. In my opinion, for a pretty light build on 35's that doesn't see a lot of towing, I don't think the 4.88 are worth the investment. I've been running 35's for about a year and a half and I thought the stock gearing was fine. I also ran my 80 on 35's with stock gearing, so the taller ratios didn't feel "wrong" to me in any way. Only 2 reasons I did it: 1) I was going in there for lockers anyway, the labor cost of adding gears was negligible, so a pretty minimal additional investment for the gears, 2) I entertain notions of someday moving to 37's. :hillbilly:

No rubbing yet. I was previously running 35x11 (285/75r18) and had already done some mods to clear those. So far the wider, knobbier 35's haven't rubbed in any on-road scenario, but I haven't flexed them up yet. Hoping I can get by without doing a BMC for now.
 
It drives nice enough, feels pretty much stock. In my opinion, for a pretty light build on 35's that doesn't see a lot of towing, I don't think the 4.88 are worth the investment. I've been running 35's for about a year and a half and I thought the stock gearing was fine. I also ran my 80 on 35's with stock gearing, so the taller ratios didn't feel "wrong" to me in any way. Only 2 reasons I did it: 1) I was going in there for lockers anyway, the labor cost of adding gears was negligible, so a pretty minimal additional investment for the gears, 2) I entertain notions of someday moving to 37's. :hillbilly:

No rubbing yet. I was previously running 35x11 (285/75r18) and had already done some mods to clear those. So far the wider, knobbier 35's haven't rubbed in any on-road scenario, but I haven't flexed them up yet. Hoping I can get by without doing a BMC for now.

Great points.

On the BMC - I would highly encourage that. Unless you have so much caster dialed in that there's ample clearance, which I doubt is possible with the stock adjusters and 35s. It's worth addressing from a safety perspective. Without enough clearance, in hard braking with some steering dialed in for an emergency maneuver like the moose test, there's a very real possibility that the tire can be pushed into the body mount hard enough to lockup the tire. Which then binds and locks up even harder potentially resulting in loss of control. You'll need to anyways for any real off-road.

The BMC process itself is trivial and I've done 5 of them now and could knock it out in less than 2 hrs. There's shops that do this all day for other Toyota platforms so finding a competent resource shouldn't be hard after getting over the mental idea of doing it.
 
Great points.

On the BMC - I would highly encourage that. Unless you have so much caster dialed in that there's ample clearance, which I doubt is possible with the stock adjusters and 35s. It's worth addressing from a safety perspective. Without enough clearance, in hard braking with some steering dialed in for an emergency maneuver like the moose test, there's a very real possibility that the tire can be pushed into the body mount hard enough to lockup the tire. Which then binds and locks up even harder potentially resulting in loss of control. You'll need to anyways for any real off-road.

The BMC process itself is trivial and I've done 5 of them now and could knock it out in less than 2 hrs. There's shops that do this all day for other Toyota platforms so finding a competent resource shouldn't be hard after getting over the mental idea of doing it.
Agreed. I have cut so much at this point with a 35/12.5 and still rub from time to time when wheeling. The only thing that used to rub were high speed dips on the highway. But progressive bump stops solved that problem.

BMC was helpful and an easy mod with a sawzall and a flux welder.
 
I'm definitely not against the BMC, and I plan to do it eventually, but I have a wheeling trip planned in a little over a week and won't have time to get it done before. We'll see how it goes.
 
Really scraped up the front and rear bumpers this season. Trimmed everything up a little. Mainly to cut out all the scrub but, have a much better departure and approach angle now.

I looked at your 2nd pic and think... "looks a lot like Golden". Then I see your location.... funny.
 
Test fit a power trays tray. They sell it for a Tacoma but it seems like it mostly works with the 200 series. I’m going to adjust the angle of it a bit. Excited to get this Garmin powerswitch installed.

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Nice work, might try fabricating a "foot" for the other end of the plate. Probably not necessary, but that's how most of the other aftermarket panels that mount in that area work. There are plenty of bolt holes into the body underneath it to use.

Are those the Vgate terminals blocks? Looks like you just bent/trimmed the tabs on the OEM terminals to fit? That seems like a better idea than mine. I was thinking of just trimming the end of the terminal block so the tabs would fit.
 
Nice work, might try fabricating a "foot" for the other end of the plate. Probably not necessary, but that's how most of the other aftermarket panels that mount in that area work. There are plenty of bolt holes into the body underneath it to use.

Are those the Vgate terminals blocks? Looks like you just bent/trimmed the tabs on the OEM terminals to fit? That seems like a better idea than mine. I was thinking of just trimming the end of the terminal block so the tabs would fit.
They offer a larger one with a foot, if it’s needed I can make one but this angle isn’t sag it’s built into their product since it’s designed for the Tacoma. I don’t fault them at all. I’m using it in an untested manner. I did email them with feedback and I live close to their shop so they can measure mine if they like, we will see if they respond.

You can see here the angle completely unloaded. Should be a fairly easy fix.
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I used Ill customs from eBay but they have an online store as well. Yes. I did just flatten the factory tabs.


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