Really scraped up the front and rear bumpers this season. Trimmed everything up a little. Mainly to cut out all the scrub but, have a much better departure and approach angle now.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Pics?Really scraped up the front and rear bumpers this season. Trimmed everything up a little. Mainly to cut out all the scrub but, have a much better departure and approach angle now.
This weekend the LX got a little TLC in the logo department. Installed the standard LC200 rear insignia (the rest of the badging was long gone), and did a front logo delete for the plastic radar cover (which I've always hated). I went with the same gray (plus clear coat) that I recently used for restoring the RW plastic center caps. And I finally put on the factory TLC rain visors that I ordered from the Middle East like 2 years ago.
View attachment 3295190
View attachment 3295191
View attachment 3295192
View attachment 3295193
View attachment 3295194
You guys know if these bolts can be used in the big bolt locations on the wheel wells after the 3rd row seat delete as well?Yeah, rear panels need to be uncliped from the rear to get the belt assembly out.
If you don't want to remove the drawers, I guess you can cut the belt, and just remove the upper mounting point.
Really scraped up the front and rear bumpers this season. Trimmed everything up a little. Mainly to cut out all the scrub but, have a much better departure and approach angle now.
View attachment 3450590
View attachment 3450591
View attachment 3450592
I use glue traps for a mouse issue.They will be dead mice moving forward as I took @bloc ’s advice and grabbed some new camping gear.
View attachment 3446566
I’ll grab some for you.Very tastefully done! More pics if you have them, especially the rear.
They only work where proper seatbelt anchors attach, since that is a federally mandated 7/16-20 thread. So an example would be the upper or lower seatbelt anchor for the second or third row.You guys know if these bolts can be used in the big bolt locations on the wheel wells after the 3rd row seat delete as well?
![]()
Summit Racing SUM-510314 Summit Racing™ Safety Harness Eye Bolts | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Safety Harness Eye Bolts with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Racing Harness Components at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
How are the 4.88s + 35" combo?Wheel and tire dayFinally happy with the look of 17's. The old Nittos were on their last leg too
Method mr316 +25mm 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompsons
View attachment 3452420
View attachment 3452424
Wheel and tire dayFinally happy with the look of 17's. The old Nittos were on their last leg too
Method mr316 +25mm 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompsons
View attachment 3452420
View attachment 3452424
Looks great! Looking to finish mine this weekend and joining youWheel and tire dayFinally happy with the look of 17's. The old Nittos were on their last leg too
Method mr316 +25mm 35x12.5x17 Mickey Thompsons
View attachment 3452420
View attachment 3452424
It drives nice enough, feels pretty much stock. In my opinion, for a pretty light build on 35's that doesn't see a lot of towing, I don't think the 4.88 are worth the investment. I've been running 35's for about a year and a half and I thought the stock gearing was fine. I also ran my 80 on 35's with stock gearing, so the taller ratios didn't feel "wrong" to me in any way. Only 2 reasons I did it: 1) I was going in there for lockers anyway, the labor cost of adding gears was negligible, so a pretty minimal additional investment for the gears, 2) I entertain notions of someday moving to 37's.How are the 4.88s + 35" combo?
Any rubbing?
It drives nice enough, feels pretty much stock. In my opinion, for a pretty light build on 35's that doesn't see a lot of towing, I don't think the 4.88 are worth the investment. I've been running 35's for about a year and a half and I thought the stock gearing was fine. I also ran my 80 on 35's with stock gearing, so the taller ratios didn't feel "wrong" to me in any way. Only 2 reasons I did it: 1) I was going in there for lockers anyway, the labor cost of adding gears was negligible, so a pretty minimal additional investment for the gears, 2) I entertain notions of someday moving to 37's.
No rubbing yet. I was previously running 35x11 (285/75r18) and had already done some mods to clear those. So far the wider, knobbier 35's haven't rubbed in any on-road scenario, but I haven't flexed them up yet. Hoping I can get by without doing a BMC for now.
Agreed. I have cut so much at this point with a 35/12.5 and still rub from time to time when wheeling. The only thing that used to rub were high speed dips on the highway. But progressive bump stops solved that problem.Great points.
On the BMC - I would highly encourage that. Unless you have so much caster dialed in that there's ample clearance, which I doubt is possible with the stock adjusters and 35s. It's worth addressing from a safety perspective. Without enough clearance, in hard braking with some steering dialed in for an emergency maneuver like the moose test, there's a very real possibility that the tire can be pushed into the body mount hard enough to lockup the tire. Which then binds and locks up even harder potentially resulting in loss of control. You'll need to anyways for any real off-road.
The BMC process itself is trivial and I've done 5 of them now and could knock it out in less than 2 hrs. There's shops that do this all day for other Toyota platforms so finding a competent resource shouldn't be hard after getting over the mental idea of doing it.
Really scraped up the front and rear bumpers this season. Trimmed everything up a little. Mainly to cut out all the scrub but, have a much better departure and approach angle now.
Nice work, might try fabricating a "foot" for the other end of the plate. Probably not necessary, but that's how most of the other aftermarket panels that mount in that area work. There are plenty of bolt holes into the body underneath it to use.Test fit a power trays tray. They sell it for a Tacoma but it seems like it mostly works with the 200 series. I’m going to adjust the angle of it a bit. Excited to get this Garmin powerswitch installed.
View attachment 3452881
View attachment 3452882
View attachment 3452883
They offer a larger one with a foot, if it’s needed I can make one but this angle isn’t sag it’s built into their product since it’s designed for the Tacoma. I don’t fault them at all. I’m using it in an untested manner. I did email them with feedback and I live close to their shop so they can measure mine if they like, we will see if they respond.Nice work, might try fabricating a "foot" for the other end of the plate. Probably not necessary, but that's how most of the other aftermarket panels that mount in that area work. There are plenty of bolt holes into the body underneath it to use.
Are those the Vgate terminals blocks? Looks like you just bent/trimmed the tabs on the OEM terminals to fit? That seems like a better idea than mine. I was thinking of just trimming the end of the terminal block so the tabs would fit.