Finally got the torsion bars and diff drop installed. Everything was chill except the driver side rear mount was stuck bad. Had to cut the bar and drive it out. I feel like I might be a tooth off because getting it level under load has the driver side driven about 1.5 inches in further than passenger. Confirmed correct sides. I'm gonna let it settle some more and see how it shakes out.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)
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Thanks for posting the pics. I have been looking for a replacement grill for my 2005 LC100 since mine got damaged a while back. The pics look great! I don’t think I’ll do the Raptor lights, but the grill is a definite!
Colormatch it to your truck, or bumper/trim, and it will look much better in my opinion. Could maybe leave the center bar black and that would look good too. These grills are everywhere nowadays on all Toyota 4x4's, and the cheap black abs plastic just looks cheap and out of place. Though yours looks better than a lot I've seen. I still think the Satoshi grill looks the best on a 100.
Here's my Tundra with a colormatched one.
Got around to installing my eBay special drivers seat bottom. All in all, pretty easy really. The one I bought did not come with hogs rings, so I bought those and the pliers in a package with tons of extras, in 3 sizes. The hardest part of this is taking the seat out and getting the trim pieces off. The whole removal and install of the leather was collectively 30 minutes.
This one does not reuse the factory guide wires or “bars”. It has a rubberized plastic piece in place instead. So I had to mark with a pen and use an awl or punch to pierce the material above the “bar”. It still seems very sturdy honestly.
As you can see my seat foam was pretty trashed and I didn’t have anything around to build it up. I’m not too concerned with it, as I can adjust it whenever as easy as this was. And I will be doing this again soon, as I am going to buy the passengers replacement too from them.
I watched a video of a guy on YouTube (older hotrod guy) before jumping into this. It helped tremendously. Gives some heads up on some things, I’ll dig up a link and one to the seat as well.
This one does not reuse the factory guide wires or “bars”. It has a rubberized plastic piece in place instead. So I had to mark with a pen and use an awl or punch to pierce the material above the “bar”. It still seems very sturdy honestly.
As you can see my seat foam was pretty trashed and I didn’t have anything around to build it up. I’m not too concerned with it, as I can adjust it whenever as easy as this was. And I will be doing this again soon, as I am going to buy the passengers replacement too from them.
I watched a video of a guy on YouTube (older hotrod guy) before jumping into this. It helped tremendously. Gives some heads up on some things, I’ll dig up a link and one to the seat as well.
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Rebuilt the rear axle with new bearings. seals, and 4.88 gears. Added a little paint.
Got a nasty rock chip right in the center of my windshield and while i was at it took care of a few more. Didn’t completely make it “invisible” but not so glaring/distracting any longer
Also applied some leather conditioner onto the seats.
Also applied some leather conditioner onto the seats.
Replaced my cracked and plastidipped front grille with a much nicer uncracked and painted front grille. Thanks @ClassyJalopy !
What kit did you use? I have one on my Tundra I need to address.
Changing my brake pads.
Noticed driver front inner pad was missing the 3rd shim piece that rides on the edge.
Is it important enough to order new one.
Noticed driver front inner pad was missing the 3rd shim piece that rides on the edge.
Is it important enough to order new one.
Rust-Oleum Rust Reformer. Not the spray can, that's to messy. Just the bottle you apply with a brush. Consider going over that with Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer followed by a Rust-Oleum enamel in the color of your choice. Not as complicated as I just made it sound. Buy small bottles and use them here and there as needed.
Others me suggest other things. I dont know everything. POR-15 seems to have amazing reviews.
Got some eBay seat jackets meant for a Tacoma or 4Runner, about $45 shipped and it's enough pieces for both front seats. They required a little bit of modification, there is an alignment pin on the bottom that has to be taken off, and I had to drill the hole in the seat bracket lower but for the price it was worth it. One other issue was the bolt holes had powder coating in them and I had to run my tap through them.
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After much procrastination, I finally got down to installing all the Perry Parts bump stops before the Texas summer cranks into "Hades level"! 
A 1-banana job, even after having to reinstall one of the back ones when I realized I'd installed it backwards. As you can see from the pictures, the original ones were pretty much petrified after 25 years in AZ and TX; the flip side of that coin is the hardware all came out easily (I'd pre-soaked the day before).
Truck went straight back into the garage, so I will report back when I've put it through its paces.
A 1-banana job, even after having to reinstall one of the back ones when I realized I'd installed it backwards. As you can see from the pictures, the original ones were pretty much petrified after 25 years in AZ and TX; the flip side of that coin is the hardware all came out easily (I'd pre-soaked the day before).
Truck went straight back into the garage, so I will report back when I've put it through its paces.
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I apologize for the crappy shots, the truck is still covered in dust from our trip to Big Bend. One last picture to highlight that what I thought would be a simple improvement will now also be a repair, not the uneven wear on the front rotors.... #itneverstops !
Replaced the hood seals (headlight and rad support) and dropped the latch, mostly eliminating the highway shake. The corners still ride above the fenders, may try bending slightly or escalate to hood pins.
Noticed some water intrusion near the DS footwell after being parked at an odd angle during a recent storm, pulled the outside molding and found only a single rivet on each side. Added 3x rivets to the empty holes on each side and replaced with new molding. Seemed to seal everything up, and got rid of some wind noise.
Finally got around to beating in the pinch weld and reforming the fender liners, great to go to full lock without rubbing (SCS F5's, 285/75/R16 KO2's, Dobinson's UCA's, and ASAP flaps).
Installed shifter extension from @cruiserpatch and seatback /glovebox frames from @plaidwagon to improve the next adventure, excellent quality stuff from good folks!
Noticed some water intrusion near the DS footwell after being parked at an odd angle during a recent storm, pulled the outside molding and found only a single rivet on each side. Added 3x rivets to the empty holes on each side and replaced with new molding. Seemed to seal everything up, and got rid of some wind noise.
Finally got around to beating in the pinch weld and reforming the fender liners, great to go to full lock without rubbing (SCS F5's, 285/75/R16 KO2's, Dobinson's UCA's, and ASAP flaps).
Installed shifter extension from @cruiserpatch and seatback /glovebox frames from @plaidwagon to improve the next adventure, excellent quality stuff from good folks!
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Your first 2 sentences are a bit related to some issues I've been having. If you have further info in the process, I'd love to learn more about it.
Lookin good, thanks for sharing! What floor mats are you running in there?
What shift knobs are those?
A few different threads on here about adjusting the latch, but basically enlarging the holes vertically to get more adjustment than the factory holes (FSM diagram and pictures here: Adjusting hood - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/adjusting-hood.922285/post-10546732, Adjusting hood - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/adjusting-hood.922285/post-10979497).
Hood seals are 5338160041 (radiator support) and 5318360071 (headlight support) for my 2004, uncertain on compatibility with other years. They come with new clips, pop off the old and push in the new.
Bending the hood corners down discussed here: Hood flutters over 55 mph - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hood-flutters-over-55-mph.1091888/post-11919918.
Thanks for making cool stuff! Floor mats are an eBay special others have discussed here, excellent fit and finish for the price and trap sand/dirt/dust well (I like them better than the weathertech's I had previously) : Set of 4 Black Rubber All Weather Floor Mats OE Fit for Toyota Land Cruiser | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/352709021412
AJT Designs for an FJ cruiser, I cut the H/N/L designator off of the old knob and attached to the new one with VHB tape. No issues for 5+ years.
After much procrastination, I finally got down to installing all the Perry Parts bump stops before the Texas summer cranks into "Hades level"!
A 1-banana job, even after having to reinstall one of the back ones when I realized I'd installed it backwards. As you can see from the pictures, the original ones were pretty much petrified after 25 years in AZ and TX; the flip side of that coin is the hardware all came out easily (I'd pre-soaked the day before).
Truck went straight back into the garage, so I will report back when I've put it through its paces.
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what made you decide to replace all 4 up front - I understand Perry parts recommends to start with 2 but honestly I don't like that idea. Toyota put 4 impact points for a reason and it seems bad to have an uneven load on the LCA if you do bottom out
