What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (19 Viewers)

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What’s the advantage of running 80 series shocks? First I’ve heard of this.
Lots of great threads out there about it. It entirely depends on what you want for the build.

I'm running Ironman's 45682LFE with approx. 2" shock spacers to achieve maximum down travel possible without having to get too far into the weeds.

The result is approximately 4-5" more down travel in the rear than the 100 series rear shocks from Ironman, for example.

On the 98-99 LC/LX you don't even need to buy extended brake lines because you can just space them out with some nylon washers. The ABS wires, e-locker wiring, and breather hoses are also parts that need to be extended/addressed.
 
Original radiator split at the top. I might not have noticed in time if I hadn't been in the habit of popping the hood 1-2x/week in order to connect a Battery Tender to keep it topped up; coolant was everywhere.

Fortunately I already had on hand:
  • Radiator
  • Shroud
  • Hoses & clamps
  • T-stat
  • Overflow reservoir
  • Coolant
  • Tees
I got every coolant hose replaced except for 1) the rearward one that exits the oil filter housing and 2) the small one that exits the thermostat housing. (Yep, the ones under the car got replaced as well). Since I had all of that room under the hood, I replaced spark plugs and PCV valve/hoses, and flushed the two heater cores with distilled water and a modified garden sprayer. Also, I used a can of foaming coil cleaner to make sure that the AC condenser coil and the trans cooler coil were both clean, since it's hard to do this when the radiator is in the way.

Old radiator looked great right up until the end. (2nd pic) I'm glad that it happened at home, I really would have kicked myself if it happened on the road.

And I'm *especially* glad that I used a venturi vac filler to fill the system with coolant, because I had a leak; the new thermostat wasn't seated square in its housing (1st pic). Better to have to figure out why it wouldn't hold a vacuum, than to have to figure out why coolant went everywhere! That was a quick fix. Venturi filler also made easy work of actually filling the system; even after having drained the block there was no burping needed, and no adding coolant after cooldown.

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Lots of great threads out there about it. It entirely depends on what you want for the build.

I'm running Ironman's 45682LFE with approx. 2" shock spacers to achieve maximum down travel possible without having to get too far into the weeds.

The result is approximately 4-5" more down travel in the rear than the 100 series rear shocks from Ironman, for example.

On the 98-99 LC/LX you don't even need to buy extended brake lines because you can just space them out with some nylon washers. The ABS wires, e-locker wiring, and breather hoses are also parts that need to be extended/addressed.
Learn something new every day! I had no idea. 👍
 
Lots of great threads out there about it. It entirely depends on what you want for the build.

I'm running Ironman's 45682LFE with approx. 2" shock spacers to achieve maximum down travel possible without having to get too far into the weeds.

The result is approximately 4-5" more down travel in the rear than the 100 series rear shocks from Ironman, for example.

On the 98-99 LC/LX you don't even need to buy extended brake lines because you can just space them out with some nylon washers. The ABS wires, e-locker wiring, and breather hoses are also parts that need to be extended/addressed.

Reminds me of the old N74L days.

 
Started working on my Redarc TowPro Elite trailer brake controller. Got the blank for the stock diff lock switch drilled out to work with the standard control knob plate that comes with it. Tomorrow I'll hopefully get the rest installed while the kids are at school.

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Finished the Redarc tow-pro elite trailer brake controller install and swapped out the flat 4 pin connector for a 7 pin one. Next project will be adding the trailer charging wire to the connector but I didn't have enough wire or time today to do that.

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Original radiator split at the top. I might not have noticed in time if I hadn't been in the habit of popping the hood 1-2x/week in order to connect a Battery Tender to keep it topped up; coolant was everywhere.

Fortunately I already had on hand:
  • Radiator
  • Shroud
  • Hoses & clamps
  • T-stat
  • Overflow reservoir
  • Coolant
  • Tees
I got every coolant hose replaced except for 1) the rearward one that exits the oil filter housing and 2) the small one that exits the thermostat housing. (Yep, the ones under the car got replaced as well). Since I had all of that room under the hood, I replaced spark plugs and PCV valve/hoses, and flushed the two heater cores with distilled water and a modified garden sprayer. Also, I used a can of foaming coil cleaner to make sure that the AC condenser coil and the trans cooler coil were both clean, since it's hard to do this when the radiator is in the way.

Old radiator looked great right up until the end. (2nd pic) I'm glad that it happened at home, I really would have kicked myself if it happened on the road.

And I'm *especially* glad that I used a venturi vac filler to fill the system with coolant, because I had a leak; the new thermostat wasn't seated square in its housing (1st pic). Better to have to figure out why it wouldn't hold a vacuum, than to have to figure out why coolant went everywhere! That was a quick fix. Venturi filler also made easy work of actually filling the system; even after having drained the block there was no burping needed, and no adding coolant after cooldown.

*images snipped*
I'm pretty sure a split radiator is what killed the 2UZ in the LX470 that I'm in the process of replacing the engine in - so definitely a good thing you caught it in time! I bought my LX with this blown engine, and it wasn't until I pulled the rad that I saw that it had split wide open under the foam.
 
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Spent a bit of time removing the fake wood on the dash. Accidentally left a few scuff marks and I still need to clean up a bit more of the residue but I think its way better than it was. A heat gun would have made this so much easier!!
 
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Spent a bit of time removing the fake wood on the dash. Accidentally left a few scuff marks and I still need to clean up a bit more of the residue but I think its way better than it was. A heat gun would have made this so much easier!!
That panel and the ones around the rear window switches are the last remaining ones in my truck. Looks more like a Land Cruiser without that stick on wood.
 
@GerLC100 absolutely loving the Mickey BB A/T and black f5 combo ! Exactly what I want for my white 100 (when I find it).
will update in 10 days how they performed on Mojave Road and Joshua Tree :-)
 
Picked up a MORRFlate air compressor because the Craftsman 12v one we bought had to be returned the next day. The Craftsman (which we bought the day of our trip) took over 40 minutes to inflate four tires from 12 to 30 PSI. My wife finally understood what I was telling her about needing a good compressor.

Our Hurricane Creek trip two weeks ago was her first real trail ride where we needed to deflate for traction. She loved and and got hooked and told me to start prioritizing what gear we needed to upgrade. I love her!
 
Checked tire pressure, removed second row seats in prep for camping platform going back in (I dread putting the yeti in with the seats in place, and gave it a quick wash.

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Picked up a MORRFlate air compressor because the Craftsman 12v one we bought had to be returned the next day. The Craftsman (which we bought the day of our trip) took over 40 minutes to inflate four tires from 12 to 30 PSI. My wife finally understood what I was telling her about needing a good compressor.

Our Hurricane Creek trip two weeks ago was her first real trail ride where we needed to deflate for traction. She loved and and got hooked and told me to start prioritizing what gear we needed to upgrade. I love her!
I got a Astro AI dual compressor pump that filled my 275/70/18 from 26 to 38 in just a few min, it was amazing for the price. Hope it lasts, I just tried it out for the first time today.
 
I reupholstered my driver's seat pan. In the process I learned the previous owner once again stripped out the seat arm rest bolt, causing me great time spent in modifying a fix with tap and die kit, drilling, and fitting new bolt. The 2000 LC100 does not have a leather seat arm rest cover that you can turn inside out, so I'll later be ordering a new one.
The seat pan leather replacement is phenomenal. I got if from Wolfmans Auto and Cycle Seats. The owner does a how to video on Youtube, and even sells you the hog ring pliers you will need to do the job. I am thrilled with the customer support and product from this small business. A+++ Excellent.

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Have you seen the thread about taking both arm rests off and flipping the leather upside down on opposite sides… may solve your issue for now. Worked great for me. Took like 20 minutes.
 

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