Thanks for the review. Did you figure out a way to seal the spindle or just dealing with it?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (29 Viewers)
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A few weeks ago, I posted about installing a backup camera (connected to the stock screen via a GROM VLine 2) and having a long delay between switching into reverse and getting the camera image on the screen. I contacted GROM, and they suggested running the power through a relay. I ordered a relay, but, by the time it arrived, I was no longer experiencing the delay. If I return the relay, the delay will probably come back!
Or, it could ANTICIPATE that you are going to put it in reverse and display BEFORE you do!!!!
Went to the paint shop to check out the progress. Really fascinating process. The shop is a 1 man operation and he takes the time to walk me through everything. Cool to find someone super passionate about his craft. Hoping to have it back mid April!
Good stuff! Mine goes to paint on Monday. Currently stripping it down.
Same or different color? Love the blue.
Sticking with the blue. Taking care of some clear coat peeling and some poor body work done prior to my ownership.
While rotating tires, found that the factory CV boot clamp finally started to slang some grease. Clamped it up with a spare I had. Also brushed off the rust from the aftermarket LCA and sprayed it up. This is the only part that really takes a beating during the winter. Lesson learned: stick with OEM if you can. The other side I replaced that’s OEM is holding up great. I apply fluid film every winter.
This week I randomly had an intermittent no crank no start. Was almost stranded but thankfully I found I was able to slowly turn the key back after START and it would engage the starter.
After doing a bunch of reading on here it sounded like it could be starter contacts... It ended up being the ignition switch which makes total sense especially once I found the switch was aftermarket.
Also just a heads up the factory switch (84450-12200) is available on Amazon for $40! It is $97 from TPD
After doing a bunch of reading on here it sounded like it could be starter contacts... It ended up being the ignition switch which makes total sense especially once I found the switch was aftermarket.
Also just a heads up the factory switch (84450-12200) is available on Amazon for $40! It is $97 from TPD
Pick up the trailer of a friend for our Mojave Road
whoever knows nice spots to camp along MR: happy to get a PM
whoever knows nice spots to camp along MR: happy to get a PM
When replacing the cabin air filters, I noticed that there was a broken piece in the interior trim piece behind the glove box. It looks like the previous owner tried to fix it with hot glue and some duct tape. I figured it's a good a time as any to use JB Weld Plastic Bonder for the first time. The cure time wasn't as advertised but it did eventually work. I ended up adding braces made out of old hotel key cards as I was not confident the epoxied pieces would hold by itself. I give JB Weld 4 out of 5 stars. Next time I use it (for the door lock motor actuator case), I'll know to let it cure for a lot longer than 15 minutes (like overnight).
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cruiserpatch
Supporting Vendor
Shared this in my build thread but thought I'd throw it in here too. I'm switching to 80 Series rear shocks and adding bump stop drops/spacers. Decided to make my own out of some 3/8" steel plate and old CV axle parts.
(Photo shows a gap at full compression w/ tires and springs removed - thus the need for bump stop spacers)
It also appears that I need some new rear springs. Feat. AHC spacers and OEM rear shock bolts
(Photo shows a gap at full compression w/ tires and springs removed - thus the need for bump stop spacers)
It also appears that I need some new rear springs. Feat. AHC spacers and OEM rear shock bolts
Very elegant spacers! Any pictures of the compressed bumpstop on the other side? Curious to see how much it compresses. Also, if you've already driven it, any significant impact to the ride?
Spent the weekend in socal with the kids and front driver window decided to jump out of the guide rail and refuse to close all the way up, had to do a pitstop at the nearest harbor freight in North Hollywood for some basic tools. Done in less than an hour. Always an adventure with this 18 year old car
What was the problem with the window rail/track?
cruiserpatch
Supporting Vendor
I’ve not had a chance to drive it since installing the Perrys but I’m sure they’re just like any other bumpstop- better than factory, worse than hydro bumps
If I take more photos I’ll post them to my build thread: Builds - Patch's Build Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/patchs-build-thread.1280842/page-15
It was the 10mm bolt at the bottom riser where the glass panels sits, it fell off causing the glass to tilt forward and eventually jumped off the track. Also sprayed silicon wd40 grease on the tracks and pivoting/sliding parts of the mechanism for insurance.
Awesome, thank you! I have the PerryParts front bumpstops and I did notice an improvement vs. the stock (admittedly 25-years old and petrified) ones, but I've been curious about their rears since there are other options in the market.
What’s the advantage of running 80 series shocks? First I’ve heard of this.
Nice work! And your speaker foam looks fantastic for 17yrs of LV
That burnt Audi orange
