Ok, sweet. Thanks.
I have not found a direct answer, but the OEM shocks do not come with washers or nuts? What else do I need to order if Im reusing all the old washers?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (46 Viewers)
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I have not found a direct answer, but the OEM shocks do not come with washers or nuts? What else do I need to order if Im reusing all the old washers?
Mine came with new bushings and nuts, but I had to order new washers. Mine were crusty, so I went ahead and replaced them. People recommended replacing the mounting bolts as well so I replaced those as well. Other then that, you should be good. Just some patience getting the rear shock off lol. I had to cut off one side.
If it's occasional fire roads avoid 2 inch lift. 1" on front and about 1.5" on back with airbags to adjust hight when loaded. This is best of both worlds, highway and fire roads, IMO.
Noted. Thanks guys.
cruiserpatch
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Swapped tires between the rigs. Looks pretty silly on 31s 
Knocked out AHC flush, brake bleed, oil change, new battery (old had shorted cells which caused overcharging 18+V).
This sunday I’m releasing a full interior removal tutorial video for the 1998 LX470 (above, right).
Visit @cruiserpatch on YouTube
Knocked out AHC flush, brake bleed, oil change, new battery (old had shorted cells which caused overcharging 18+V).
This sunday I’m releasing a full interior removal tutorial video for the 1998 LX470 (above, right).
Visit @cruiserpatch on YouTube
Rebooted my CV axles this weekend in anticipation for my lift I'm installing next weekend. I'm super paranoid I installed the inards wrong though haha! I'm not even sure if they would go together backwards. I was going to take lots of pictures but there was so much grease I didn't want to touch my phone
Replaced completely blown out rack and pinion bushings over the last two days. Truck drives much better. The two drivers side ones came out without pressing in 5-6 pieces. Hardest part was pushing in the new ones on the driver side back. I used a piece of all thread like the chowcars video shows.
RE: Those lower ball joints. I've heard/read that you should remove the boot before getting them seated, then put the boot back on after so that you don't snakebite or otherwise tear the boot during install. How was your experience with those?
When your construction tools outweigh your mechanic tools…
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Any ideas on how to fix this sluggish AC/NAV screen? Swapping between menus is almost impossible and the AC is stuck on whatever setting was last...
Other news, based-lined all the fluids and stripped half the bolt heads.
Other news, based-lined all the fluids and stripped half the bolt heads.
You're in a 18xx pages thread, if you want more attention to your question, I think you should start a new thread. Just my opinion.
I kept the boot on. I used a 2 1/8” ID sleeve over the boot with a cap on the end. I placed my jack under that arrangement then placed a cap over the ball joint on the LCA then used BFH to drive the ball joint into place.
Swapped in the cardone spare CV's and new seals while I reboot the OEMs, think I'll try the tundra inner boot this time around (Different/better(?) inner CV boot - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/different-better-inner-cv-boot.1315213/). Looks like new TREs and UCAs will be needed in the near-ish future, I'll probably swap in the new LCAs to make it an eventful day or two.
Replaced all vacuum/emissions lines under the hood and the charcoal canister. Replaced DS corner light socket, and drilled the center support to adjust the hood latch lower and get rid of the high speed flutter.
Replaced RCAs and hardware, installed panhard drop bracket w/ new bar. Feels much more stable in the rear with the panhard level driving around town unloaded over dips and speed bumps, will report back after the weekend adventures on dirt and loaded down. Noticed the muffler is hanging free, so I'll need to go back with some baling wire to support it while pondering a cat-back exhaust.
Old RCAs and panhard up for grabs: FREE - 100 Series Rear Control Arms in SLC, UT - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-rear-control-arms-in-slc-ut.1321522/
Replaced all vacuum/emissions lines under the hood and the charcoal canister. Replaced DS corner light socket, and drilled the center support to adjust the hood latch lower and get rid of the high speed flutter.
Replaced RCAs and hardware, installed panhard drop bracket w/ new bar. Feels much more stable in the rear with the panhard level driving around town unloaded over dips and speed bumps, will report back after the weekend adventures on dirt and loaded down. Noticed the muffler is hanging free, so I'll need to go back with some baling wire to support it while pondering a cat-back exhaust.
Old RCAs and panhard up for grabs: FREE - 100 Series Rear Control Arms in SLC, UT - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/100-series-rear-control-arms-in-slc-ut.1321522/
Les Summer
SILVER Star
Today I made a lot of progress. Starting early this morning with a fresh oil change and greased the drive shaft on the 100LC. Next I cut off the old and grotty steering wheel leather and went to town crafting a new one made from Horween. The pictures of this leather do it no justice, it's beautiful tan with a hint of green hue to it, and I think it looks great. I never once pulled out a measuring tape. I traced out the old leather onto a piece of project paper/poster paper. After that I tested out my template on a piece of scrap leather before drawing on and cutting into my Horween, and everything was in the ball park.
I made sure to err to being too large as opposed to too small and as you can see everything turned out good. After sewing together the leather ends it was tight getting it around the steering wheel, which is a good thing. Once this thing is sewn up it's not going to be moving around on me. I finished off with some slow cooked barbacoa tacos. Cheers!
I made sure to err to being too large as opposed to too small and as you can see everything turned out good. After sewing together the leather ends it was tight getting it around the steering wheel, which is a good thing. Once this thing is sewn up it's not going to be moving around on me. I finished off with some slow cooked barbacoa tacos. Cheers!
Spent most of yesterday trying to replace the upper ball joint on the driver side. The first kit I rented was too small and the second kit sorta worked. I had to fight to get the new joint pressed in though, hopefully the other side goes better tonight!
If you cut off the shaft of the old BJ, it becomes much easier to remove. When pressing in the new one, I took off the boot to avoid damaging it!
