What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)

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OEMGUY0720 said:
I finally got the chance to work on the oil leak I first saw around 6 weeks ago which I thought was from the oil filter being loose. Turns out the culprit was the oil cooler o-ring seal.
• Oil Cooler o-ring seal - OEM part # 90301-67004.
• Oil-Coolant crossover figure-8 seal - OEM part # 15692-50020.

Flat and brittle.
View attachment 3258520

Now installed and while at it, I maximized my ultrasonic clearer. Sanded all the spots with oil stains and wire brushed the exterior of the components.
View attachment 3258521

Right after I was done with this project I did a full fluid exchange and used a total of 15 gallons of 5W30 mineral oil until the oil coming out of the drain was as clear as the new one I put in, thank you Fumoto drain valve!
View attachment 3258527
All buttoned up, torqued-to-spec and leak-free.

Did some resto work on the front brake calipers, wire-brush + metal polish cream when I replaced the pads I used Adams Iron remover spray to clean/prep it, worked like a charm.
View attachment 3258522

Detailed the engine bay as well using different degreasers and cleaners including aluminum cleaners, this stripped all aluminum lines from any oil stain. Also used Si2 based undercarriage spray from Adam’s for the finishing touch, love the dry-to-touch finish and the smell.
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Top OEM plastic intake manifold cover will go in tomorrow, tired as a dog.

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Started her up after almost a month of hiatus, ran it for 30 mins and no more leak! And I love that purr all over again. I think I’ll drive the honda tomorrow :rofl:
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Any tips, tricks, or advice on the removal of the oil filter cooler/adaptor for replacing those seals? A brief write-up on that would be incredibly appreciated.
 
willmtaylor said:
Any tips, tricks, or advice on the removal of the oil filter cooler/adaptor for replacing those seals? A brief write-up on that would be incredibly appreciated.
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I’ll try to come up with something with supporting photos.
 
I’d say it was a little past due for a coolant flush!

Used a bottle of Thermocure (purchased in 2021 for $15.99; it’s currently $42.45 a 165% increase!!) and drove about 215mi over 2wks. I’ve since flushed the system twice with straight distilled water, and there’s currently a third round in the coolant system now. I may end up doing it close to 5 times before I’m satisfied with the color coming out. I’m cleaning the coolant system in preparation for a couple maintenance items:

- Radiator
- Upper & lower hoses w/OEM clamps
- Fan Clutch
- Serpentine belt
- Serpentine idler puller
- Serpentine tensioner/pulley assembly
- Thermostat & gasket

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I replaced:
Front sway bar bushings
Rear sway bar bushings
Rear end link bushings

What a noticeable increase in the overall stability of the truck. When I go through dips in the road and uneven surfaces, the truck feels so much more stable and less "rocky".

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More bushings to come in the near future. All AHC related bushings and rear AHC lines.


20230222_104339.jpg
 
johns94cruiser said:
Is there a post/thread somewhere with all the rubber bits we would need to replace?
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I started a thread about replacing the rear AHC lines. It's going to turn into the rear lines, actuator bushings front rear top and bottom, along with the stabilizer bar bushings and links. I have part numbers posted here and will eventually add the parts diagrams ---> Has anyone successfully replaced their rear AHC lines? I think it's time. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/has-anyone-successfully-replaced-their-rear-ahc-lines-i-think-its-time.1306310/post-14848807
 
johns94cruiser said:
Went to the base today and got her on a lift. This is an Ohio truck, my wife is original owner, less than 100k miles. Now in Florida.

Bad: muffler is gone, gas tank shield is gone, front engine ‘guard’ is close to gone.

Good, after scraping appears only surface rust on frame and welded supports (crossmembers may need replaced someday), brake lines looked good.

After all the scraping, did what I could laying on the ground with some rust converter. Will likely become a semi annual maintenance check item as well.

Regardless, frame seems good (knock on wood), time to start replacing every bushing/hose/rubber piece I can find, moly the drive shaft, get some steel tundra wheels….and on and on and on….!

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I do have these and am about to throw them out, happy to send your way if you want. For Sale - OEM Transfer skids - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oem-transfer-skids.1302483/
 
jomelo said:
Replaced the factory head unit today as the CD changer was jammed and making noise.


View attachment 3261678

View attachment 3261681


Also got around to replacing the headlights with some shiny new OEM assemblies.
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Did you bypass the factory amp? I just did mine last night and after prepping and reading everything for a few weeks beforehand I still ran into some weird wires not matching up. I can't test it yet because the head unit doesn't arrive until tomorrow.
 
rock climber said:
Did you bypass the factory amp? I just did mine last night and after prepping and reading everything for a few weeks beforehand I still ran into some weird wires not matching up. I can't test it yet because the head unit doesn't arrive until tomorrow.
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Okay so I bought the least expensive Tetra adapter from Crutchfield and it claimed it was for hooking up the factory amp. I did not really want to do that but the other harness seemed a little complicated so I decided to try the cheap one. IIRC, It was generally straight forward except for the amp part. I believe I had blue white wire claiming to be an amp wire and then a blue white wire that claimed to be the power for antenna. I hooked them together and it sounds great. However, the antenna does not work but that’s actually okay with me. I’m really not an audio guy but it was super easy.
 
jomelo said:
Okay so I bought the least expensive Tetra adapter from Crutchfield and it claimed it was for hooking up the factory amp. I did not really want to do that but the other harness seemed a little complicated so I decided to try the cheap one. IIRC, It was generally straight forward except for the amp part. I believe I had blue white wire claiming to be an amp wire and then a blue white wire that claimed to be the power for antenna. I hooked them together and it sounds great. However, the antenna does not work but that’s actually okay with me. I’m really not an audio guy but it was super easy.
Click to expand...

Sounds like yours was a much better way than what I did :)
 
rock climber said:
I'm really interested to hear your feedback. I have EBC on my sequoia and they are good, but definitely dusty.
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Have clocked approximately 100 miles now on the new OEM front pads with the same driving habits and the overall feel is the same as EBC Green stuff however the front wheels are still clean. At 100 miles, my previous EBC Green Stuff have a significant and evident amount of brake dust on the wheels at this point like you went wheeling in the desert. Couldn’t be happier.
 
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