TreatSmash
SILVER Star
Slee stainless steel brake lines, went in pretty easy, took about 2 hours.
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Toyota OEM shocks are very reasonably priced ($100 for a pair) - recommended to replace in pairsPut LED reverse bulbs in yesterday but haven’t driven at night yet. I used the same brand in a Yukon XL I used to have and they were really bright. Also diagnosed the front end clunk, blown out RF lower shock bushing. Now I’m trying to decide which cheap shocks to get that will get me by till I can afford a full lift.
Yeah, I just saw that about 15 min ago when I decided to check my local dealer price. I need valve cover gaskets too but I'll probably get those from rockauto because the whole kit from them is 1/2 the cost of just the grommets from the dealer. Thanks for the tip about doing them in pairs, I've been working on cars since the mid 90's and did it professionally for about 15 years so I know to do it that way. You would be surprised though how many customers only wanted to do one, or just one side of their brakes because only one rotor was under spec.Toyota OEM shocks are very reasonably priced ($100 for a pair) - recommended to replace in pairs
Good on you on doing your own work, but I guess being a BMW "junky", you'd have too!Yeah, I just saw that about 15 min ago when I decided to check my local dealer price. I need valve cover gaskets too but I'll probably get those from rockauto because the whole kit from them is 1/2 the cost of just the grommets from the dealer. Thanks for the tip about doing them in pairs, I've been working on cars since the mid 90's and did it professionally for about 15 years so I know to do it that way. You would be surprised though how many customers only wanted to do one, or just one side of their brakes because only one rotor was under spec.
They were fairly loose so fingers crossed that takes care of the leak. Not looking forward to that drivers side when they eventually do need to be replaced.Good on you on doing your own work, but I guess being a BMW "junky", you'd have too!
I say it with love - from one BMW aficionado to another!
BTW - there is a good chance that your VC gaskets are just fine and it's just the VC cover bolts that need to be re-torqued. Give it a try and see if that takes care of the light seepage!
It should go at least another 16k, mine is at at 316,xxx.
It's actually not bad at all, you git a lot of room and don't have to take off inake or anything crazy like a BimmerThey were fairly loose so fingers crossed that takes care of the leak. Not looking forward to that drivers side when they eventually do need to be replaced.
I never had to pull an intake for a VC gasket on a BMW, the variable valve lift motors did have to come out on some of the 2008ish and newer cars but it wasn't too bad. I would def rather do 2 VC gaskets on a 1997 6 cyl BMW than the drivers side of the this 100 series V8 though.It's actually not bad at all, you git a lot of room and don't have to take off inake or anything crazy like a Bimmer
Cheers for being cheerful about it. I tell all my friends that a 100% of 100 series will experience this stupid failure around 200k miles - most of them don't appreciate the news!
Any symptoms leading up to it? ive got 240k on mine and its never been replaced. I rather do it preventatively vs having a failure on the road.
WHY will 100% of 100 series experience brake booster failure around 200,000 miles? What causes this to happen?Cheers for being cheerful about it. I tell all my friends that a 100% of 100 series will experience this stupid failure around 200k miles - most of them don't appreciate the news!
Best educated guess is overfilling break fluid res running down the sides onto the electric bitsWHY will 100% of 100 series experience brake booster failure around 200,000 miles? What causes this to happen?
WHY will 100% of 100 series experience brake booster failure around 200,000 miles? What causes this to happen?
Best educated guess is overfilling break fluid res running down the sides onto the electric bits
I'll cross the bridge when I come to it, but as a whole, I think this guy has the issue pegged pretty good.These are early generation electric booster systems. An electric motor runs a pump to pressurize the brake fluid in the accumulator. It has multiple advantages over the simpler vacuum operated brake booster that older Cruisers had.
This makes brakes completely independent of engine and you don't lose your brakes if the engine stalls out!!
Unfortunately, the electric motor has a limited life and can wear out with 20 years of service and abt 200k miles.
So if your truck is nearing that mileage, you're on borrowed time. Replace your booster before you buy those chintzy wheels or spend money on other masculine jewelry for your truck.
I must be winning the lottery at 290k. Rebuilding. Or replacing the motor is on my to do list as a precaution this winter.Cheers for being cheerful about it. I tell all my friends that a 100% of 100 series will experience this stupid failure around 200k miles - most of them don't appreciate the news!