thanks for the tip!
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (61 Viewers)
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I deceived her.
After a splendid trail we've had together yesterday I decided to make a 700km trip to check on some 5 years younger siblings of her. Flirting a bit and pretty keen to make a change. Went there as a couple, though.
She paid back.
Silently spat a caliper bolt and said nothing about it. Upper one, left front wheel.
Tend to believe it was just a warning as only the rim suffered a bit and couple of thousands of my neurons.
Am a bit scared but she should admit I need a change. Bigamy is not an option...
After a splendid trail we've had together yesterday I decided to make a 700km trip to check on some 5 years younger siblings of her. Flirting a bit and pretty keen to make a change. Went there as a couple, though.
She paid back.
Silently spat a caliper bolt and said nothing about it. Upper one, left front wheel.
Tend to believe it was just a warning as only the rim suffered a bit and couple of thousands of my neurons.
Am a bit scared but she should admit I need a change. Bigamy is not an option...
Received 4 new, current production OEM AHC globes from IMPEX Japan… and Zeal AHC shock extensions from Japan 4x4.
Installed today… Went from 8 graduations High to Low up to 14 graduations… the drive feels the same, perhaps a bit tighter body control in the rear. Only have 102,000 miles on the original AHC globes, but in 20 years, I would imagine that the nitrogen pressure has gone down a bit. Wanted to start fresh.
If you do the AHC shock extensions, be sure to check for CV boot clearance to the shock extensions bracket. Mine would barely touch the CV boot at full lock, on both the left and right side shocks…
So I shaved down the shock extension brackets with a flap disc, and welded through to fuse and laminate the 2 layers of steel in the bracket. Sadly, in this process, I lost the zinc plating in that location, so I ended up prime and painting them black.
In the last photo, you can see where I changed the radius in the lower right corner of the shock extension bracket. I now have 3.5mm clearance to the CV boot at full lock.
Installed today… Went from 8 graduations High to Low up to 14 graduations… the drive feels the same, perhaps a bit tighter body control in the rear. Only have 102,000 miles on the original AHC globes, but in 20 years, I would imagine that the nitrogen pressure has gone down a bit. Wanted to start fresh.
If you do the AHC shock extensions, be sure to check for CV boot clearance to the shock extensions bracket. Mine would barely touch the CV boot at full lock, on both the left and right side shocks…
So I shaved down the shock extension brackets with a flap disc, and welded through to fuse and laminate the 2 layers of steel in the bracket. Sadly, in this process, I lost the zinc plating in that location, so I ended up prime and painting them black.
In the last photo, you can see where I changed the radius in the lower right corner of the shock extension bracket. I now have 3.5mm clearance to the CV boot at full lock.
PO left this hidden gem…
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Nah, his impending divorce forced the sale, but little issues like this probably made it easier hahaha.I wonder if that was his "F it, I'm just gonna sell it" moment?
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Found a small crack in the top of my radiator. Bit the bullet after much deliberation and bought a radiator from Toyota.
Had to re-tap a mount and form + epoxy a new tab for the shroud.
that tab looks better in person...
Had to re-tap a mount and form + epoxy a new tab for the shroud.
that tab looks better in person...
TreatSmash
SILVER Star
Slee stainless steel brake lines, went in pretty easy, took about 2 hours.
Removed the roof rails and attached a Kings (essentially a re-badged Yakima) aluminium platform roof rack. Used a grinder cutting disc + Dremel to insert a gap in the black aluminium trim. I remember my 100 series had plastic inserts - the full length trim with the LX470 is a lot stronger and a better fit.
Also attached some recovery points. My boilermaker mate wasn't happy with the M14 threads, so drilled and tapped them to M16. He then had the Milwaukee Fuel Impact Drill + Locktite blue and "uggered" them to a vast number of newton metres.
![.trashed-1672802174-IMG20221205124004[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/trashed-1672802174-img20221205124004-1-jpg.3185554/ ".trashed-1672802174-IMG20221205124004[1].jpg")
![.trashed-1671790945-IMG20221123202209[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/trashed-1671790945-img20221123202209-1-jpg.3185555/ ".trashed-1671790945-IMG20221123202209[1].jpg")
Also attached some recovery points. My boilermaker mate wasn't happy with the M14 threads, so drilled and tapped them to M16. He then had the Milwaukee Fuel Impact Drill + Locktite blue and "uggered" them to a vast number of newton metres.
Put LED reverse bulbs in yesterday but haven’t driven at night yet. I used the same brand in a Yukon XL I used to have and they were really bright. Also diagnosed the front end clunk, blown out RF lower shock bushing. Now I’m trying to decide which cheap shocks to get that will get me by till I can afford a full lift.
Toyota OEM shocks are very reasonably priced ($100 for a pair) - recommended to replace in pairs
Yeah, I just saw that about 15 min ago when I decided to check my local dealer price. I need valve cover gaskets too but I'll probably get those from rockauto because the whole kit from them is 1/2 the cost of just the grommets from the dealer. Thanks for the tip about doing them in pairs, I've been working on cars since the mid 90's and did it professionally for about 15 years so I know to do it that way. You would be surprised though how many customers only wanted to do one, or just one side of their brakes because only one rotor was under spec.
Good on you on doing your own work, but I guess being a BMW "junky", you'd have too!
I say it with love - from one BMW aficionado to another!
BTW - there is a good chance that your VC gaskets are just fine and it's just the VC cover bolts that need to be re-torqued. Give it a try and see if that takes care of the light seepage!
They were fairly loose so fingers crossed that takes care of the leak. Not looking forward to that drivers side when they eventually do need to be replaced.Good on you on doing your own work, but I guess being a BMW "junky", you'd have too!
I say it with love - from one BMW aficionado to another!
BTW - there is a good chance that your VC gaskets are just fine and it's just the VC cover bolts that need to be re-torqued. Give it a try and see if that takes care of the light seepage!
It should go at least another 16k, mine is at at 316,xxx.
