What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (73 Viewers)

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Finished my “can I fit a bigger battery in this Slee 2nd battery mount” quest and got an 85 AH true deep cycle mounted.

Thread here: Max Amp Hours you can fit in a Slee 2nd Battery Mount? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/max-amp-hours-you-can-fit-in-a-slee-2nd-battery-mount.1227948/page-3

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Also tightened up what I found were SUPER loose bolts on my right valve cover and checked spark plugs on that side—all right.


Also re-plumbed my Airift bags so I can fill each one individually. I had them Teed into one fitting, but felt like air was moving from one bag to the other, counteracting the sway bars. Especially bad when heavily loaded. Hoping this is more stable.

Also, while doing this, cleaned out a TON of mud behind the rear wheel we’ll guard by the fuel filler neck—probably something to be done periodically.

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Welp, 3rd time now... CV boot is ripped. It's practically brand new and yes I used the OEM reboot kit. SMFH :bang:

At least it's the easy side of the CV axle...
 
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Welp, 3rd time now... CV boot is ripped. It's practically brand new and yes I used the OEM reboot kit. SMFH :bang:

At least it's the easy side of the CV axle...
I have 2 new outboard "hard" side boots since both OEM inner boots went bad shortly after installing new OEM axles and I didn't see the point is replacing the outers :( With all the inner CV boot issues I've seen in the last year or so, I wonder if there is a problem with them...
 
Fished some little blue lines in the high country before they closed
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Unfortunately, the cruiser didn't like the trip as much we did, noticed a grinding about a mile from home and some burnt grease dripping from the caliper dust shield in the driveway. Dug in to find a c-clip popped off the CV, spindle nut completely backed off, lock washer with no tabs bent, and claw washer 180 from where it should be. Guess that's what I get for having a small shop do wheel bearings 28K ago. Ran down to cruiser outfitters for parts and started the rebuild. Huge thanks to @2001LC for the detailed threads, and @TheForger for all the pics and axle puller tool, y'all make this less hateful!
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Welp, 3rd time now... CV boot is ripped. It's practically brand new and yes I used the OEM reboot kit. SMFH :bang:

At least it's the easy side of the CV axle...
Where on the boot are they ripping?
 
I have 2 new outboard "hard" side boots since both OEM inner boots went bad shortly after installing new OEM axles and I didn't see the point is replacing the outers :( With all the inner CV boot issues I've seen in the last year or so, I wonder if there is a problem with them...
I’m just glad it wasn’t my new OE CV axle. It ripped right where the clamp is so maybe I tightened it too much? (@JunkCrzr89 Ugh. I actually had a spare boot kit in my tool box but I guess the last time it ripped it was the same inboard side. I called Toyota and they sell just the boot itself and that was about $50.

Should be all done and fixed by Friday.
 
Installed remanned injectors, got two codes for "o2 sensor slow response sensor 1 " Bank 1 and 2.

got very anxious but found a vacuum leak, hoping that takes care of that.
 
I’m just glad it wasn’t my new OE CV axle. It ripped right where the clamp is so maybe I tightened it too much? (@JunkCrzr89 Ugh. I actually had a spare boot kit in my tool box but I guess the last time it ripped it was the same inboard side. I called Toyota and they sell just the boot itself and that was about $50.

Should be all done and fixed by Friday.
Are you not using the OEM clamps?
 
Using the McMaster ones. I should use the OEM…
I assume you’re using the smoothband clamps with the rolled edges? IIRC, the max torque spec for those is only like 25 in-lbs.
 
I assume you’re using the smoothband clamps with the rolled edges? IIRC, the max torque spec for those is only like 25 in-lbs.
Correct. I’m actually gonna pick up some clamp pliers on my way home and try those out.
 
Correct. I’m actually gonna pick up some clamp pliers on my way home and try those out.
Don’t need any special tools to install the OEM clamps. They just fold over.
 
Don’t need any special tools to install the OEM clamps. They just fold over.
Oh really? Then why is everyone so hesitant to use them?

Where can I find a quick tutorial on how to correctly install them?
 
Oh really? Then why is everyone so hesitant to use them?

Where can I find a quick tutorial on how to correctly install them?
I rebooted both axels on mine with OEM bootkit when both failed after about 2 inch lift. No issues over 40k miles and over 2 years. Didn't put a diff drop, no plans to do it either. And I'm no mechanic but an engineer on the keyboard all-day ;). Just followed the writeups here. The only additional thing I did was used this to tighten clamps https://amzn.to/3FVIkz8
 
Then why is everyone so hesitant to use them?
Because of disingenuous information here on MUD. I’ve installed the OEM clamps on every 100 axle I’ve rebuilt (n = 12 at this point, I think) and not had any issues. The MC clamps are a bandaid after 100k miles when the boots lose their suppleness and no longer seal tight to the shaft. But at that point, it’s likely that the outboard shaft splines are worn and the axle should be rebuilt with a new outer tulip, or replaced with a new axle.
 
Because of disingenuous information here on MUD. I’ve installed the OEM clamps on every 100 axle I’ve rebuilt (n = 12 at this point, I think) and not had any issues. The MC clamps are a bandaid after 100k miles when the boots lose their suppleness and no longer seal tight to the shaft. But at that point, it’s likely that the outboard shaft splines are worn and the axle should be rebuilt with a new outer tulip, or replaced with a new axle.

I added the MC clamps when my brand new OEM axles started leaking grease after a few months.
Chris
 
I added the MC clamps when my brand new OEM axles started leaking grease after a few months.
Chris
I’ve yet to see a new one leak.
 
Got alot of maintenance done. New valve cover seals, spark plug seals, all 8 denso coil packs. $43 each from home depot with my military discount. New plugs, DBA front and rear rotors and pads, and Cruiser outfitters front end kit, bearings, races, hub flanges, snap rings, Amsoil full synthetic grease. Currently has 289k on her. I also cut off the rear resonator and welded a straight pipe. I have DT headers and magnaflow muffler, sounds very good now.

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Couple months into your DBA install- how’s the result so far?
 
Got home from work and started tearing apart the drivers side cv axle. Weekend weather is looking good so no time to waste.

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Here’s a photo of where the boot ripped. I’m suspecting I tightened the clamp too much.

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From start to finish, the whole job took about an hour. I decided to time myself, having done it so many times now… This time does not include the time spent SAFELY securing the vehicle on at least (2) contact points.

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Disassembly of the cv axle took about 15-20 minutes. I struggled the most with cutting off the old (practically brand new) boot and wiping away the grease.

Tips for those about to take this on:

-Mark all points on the axle before taking apart.
-Jack up the driver side high enough so you don’t lose fluid from the diff.

Replacement boot will be ready for pick up from the dealer tomorrow. :)
 

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