What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (24 Viewers)

[dividedan]

I'm trying to put one together that will tuck up as close to the headliner as possible while still maintaining enough distance to make it a useful storage area. I didn't want it hanging down level with the 2nd row headrests. I also made it deep enough to reach back to the D-pillars if it's adjusted to it's most rearward position. I sent mine off to powdercoat but should be getting it back and installed pretty soon.

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Damn man this looks amazing! Keep us all updated somehow if you decide to sell these.

 

[sclay115]

Will do! My biggest worry at this point is enough cure time for the sealant. I can probably convince my wife to keep her camry outside tonight, I've got the cruiser in the garage currently so I could pull the glass and work on it on my bench. We get a brief break from rain for a few hours tonight/tomorrow, but then right back to it so it won't take long to eval this fix.

I found a few threads on this when searching around, and bet it will be getting more common as our 100s get older. My seal has looked the same since I got the truck, but I bet it baked enough over our hot summer to have gotten just that much worse to the point I notice the drip now. I wonder if there's any DIY replacement options for that rubber, maybe someone knows of a specialty sunroof supply company or something that could source it?

This should work for ya. I had a similar issue on another Toyota from around the same era and like most moonroof issues everyone pointed at the drains.

Turns out the usual answer isn't always the correct one despite what the internet believes. It took me sitting in the car with the headliner out and the hose pouring across the roof to track it down.

Used a little flowable clear silicone on the seam and it's been dry for an entire PNW year!

 

[changingground]

So just picked my 2000 (186k miles) up from the shop today after having a new front differential installed. Over the past couple weeks a whining sound developed when accelerating and decelerating and it was getting progressively worse. My initial thought was that it was just a pulley going bad or something but after doing some research on this site it became more apparent that something was up with the drivetrain. After seeing a leak in that general area my fears were mostly confirmed. So yeah, another $4,500 spent keeping this old girl alive. Also spent a good chuck of change earlier this year on a new radiator, timing belt, valve cover gaskets, rotors and tires (BFG K02s).

While contemplating all the money I've spent on her this year I decided to check out what LC's the local dealership had on the lot. They had one, a 2020 with 39K miles and they're asking $94K!!!! Ugh no thanks.. lol

So, what was the failure in the front diff? I assume seals let go because of vibration, but what happened inside the diff?

 

[94SRUNNER]

Repaired another coolant leak. If I have the time, I would have done every coolant system component at one time...but I digress...

Was at my cousins farm in Johnstown, OH last weekend for some R&R with the kids. Woke up and it was in the mid-twenty's. I initially thought it may have been the water pump itself, but after further investigation it was not. There must have been enough pressure in the system that caused the o-ring on the water pump side of the coolant bypass hardline, under the intake plenum, that goes to the heater core to start leaking. I initially thought it may have been the water pump itself. They system only lost about 8-oz of coolant, so I topped it off and made the 103 mile trip back to Dayton. I stopped a few times to check for leaks and all was well.

I had planned on using this time to do the timing belt and water pump service, as it is about time, however after inventorying my parts I realized that I was missing several parts needed to do the job. So, I decided to do the only the o-ring. Given that it required me to pull the intake plenum, I replaced those seals as well as the throttle body seal. I also used this time to give the intake plenum, throttle body, and top of the block a bit of a cleaning. All in all, it probably took about 5-6-hrs of time to complete. Probably could have been quicker, but I did it during the day, Thursday and Friday, amongst meetings and dealing with staff in the field. AS is evident in the pictures, the o-ring was shot. Not ripped, but completely flat on both sides.

I did not do the started while I was in there. If it needs it in the future, it'll be manageable.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Part 2 -

 

[Africaster]

The next step of the AHC rebuild, replace the rear shocks and springs … having to do this major (to me) dis-and-reassembly, decided to replace as many of the bushings as possible. Whilst watching the various how-to vids on what parts to buy and how to fit them, something absolutely minor that the MD struggled with in his bushings video resonated, so when ordering the parts also took the time to identify and order all peripherals (nuts, bolts, washers etc) … thank goodness!

where to start …

the stabilizer/sway bar bracket thingy … ended up cutting off the hanging supports as the nuts were rusted solid - this is the driver side, passenger side had to cut off the top nut AND the bottom bolt (that connects to the bar) - interesting that both sides only had 3 washers, I replaced with 4 … can’t wait for the top nut on the rear shocks

 

[xXsnowXx]

The next step of the AHC rebuild, replace the rear shocks and springs … having to do this major (to me) dis-and-reassembly, decided to replace as many of the bushings as possible. Whilst watching the various how-to vids on what parts to buy and how to fit them, something absolutely minor that the MD struggled with in his bushings video resonated, so when ordering the parts also took the time to identify and order all peripherals (nuts, bolts, washers etc) … thank goodness!

where to start …







the stabilizer/sway bar bracket thingy … ended up cutting off the hanging supports as the nuts were rusted solid - this is the driver side, passenger side had to cut off the top nut AND the bottom bolt (that connects to the bar) - interesting that both sides only had 3 washers, I replaced with 4 … can’t wait for the top nut on the rear shocks

For the top nut on the rear shocks, have you considered doing the hole in the cargo area "hack"? I've done the rear shock nuts twice now. The first time I put the washers on wrong/oriented incorrectly so I had to get back up there and fix. That second time was much easier of course since they were fresh and not stuck at all, but still a pain.

The ratcheting flex head ratcheting wrench was a must if doing it the normal way.

 

[Africaster]

For the top nut on the rear shocks, have you considered doing the hole in the cargo area "hack"? I've done the rear shock nuts twice now. The first time I put the washers on wrong/oriented incorrectly so I had to get back up there and fix. That second time was much easier of course since they were fresh and not stuck at all, but still a pain.

The ratcheting flex head ratcheting wrench was a must if doing it the normal way.

95% there in the decision making … theres a great thread around with the exact measurements on where to cut, so no guess work there … 96% …

 

[mdcoa]

For the top nut on the rear shocks, have you considered doing the hole in the cargo area "hack"? I've done the rear shock nuts twice now. The first time I put the washers on wrong/oriented incorrectly so I had to get back up there and fix. That second time was much easier of course since they were fresh and not stuck at all, but still a pain.

The ratcheting flex head ratcheting wrench was a must if doing it the normal way.

Having removed both AHC and regular shocks, I can say the job sucks, and it sucks worse with AHC, and I understand the inpulse (frustration), but I cannot endorse drilling enormous holes in your floor. It’s hard, but not impossible, especially with the right flex head ratcheting wrench—especially with AHC, look for one that has a ratcheting mechanism that protrudes from the wrench—huge help in getting at recessed nuts.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Did the long term preventive solution: Installed the Hewitt Technologies Secondary Air Induction System (S.A.I.S) Bypass Kit: View attachment 2833131

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Plug & Play to the MAF and laid the wire to connect to the starter relay. 1 job. I tapped the wire to terminal #2 to the starter relay

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However, the driver and the passenger side block-off plates is indeed a pain (take my word for it it’s no joke lol)
Tools used:
• 10mm ratcheting wrench
• 3/8” ratchet with 10mm socket,
• couple of 3/8” extensions
• 3/8” universal joint
• 1/2” breaker bar
• 3/8” to 1/2” socket adapter to loosen the 10mm nut for the block-off plate
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Used a mini pry bar to create that separation enough to slide the block-off plate.

Reason for this preventative mod, I have an 06Lx with VVTi 2UZ (with SAIS) and the CEL usually comes up when it’s 40°-50°F ambient temperature and you do a cold start. And with winter looming just right around the corner, this is a must before that valve eventually fails and gets stuck. So with this kit, hopefully, that is history. Thank you @hewitttech (Paul) for the prompt response on my email inquiry.
5 ️ rating, proudly US Made.

I second @OEMGUY0720! @hewitttech is great to work with. Excellent customer service and solid product.

 

[v8Billy]

Wired up a cigarette lighter in the back to run off my 2nd battery. Previously installed RedArc battery isolator. Planning to use this to run the fridge/freezer.

 

[BenScott]

So, what was the failure in the front diff? I assume seals let go because of vibration, but what happened inside the diff?

Not really sure. I can say that I no longer have a noticeable vibration when driving 65+mph though and I'd been experiencing that for years now so perhaps it was a slow deterioration of some kind.

 

[BenScott]

A front diff R&R cost $4500, or was there other work on that tab?

Nope.. $2K and some change for the diff. The rest was labor and taxes. This was at the dealer btw. I realize they're never the cheapest option but the other local shops were 1-2 week wait times.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

The replacement lens came in from Diode Dynamics, specific for piercing thru fog (by using an amber filter).

Top lens (Spot), Bottom lens (combo flood/diffused).

Actual output. Loving the long distance output and focused foreground coverage. Ready for the lake tahoe trip on mid of December.

 

[xswl]

Installed the Prospeed rack yesterday. Thanks to Brian@Prospeed being so responsive on email when I hit a few snags that wasn't clear from watching YouTube install videos. On my LX470, I completely removed the weather strip to reveal the LC bolt locations. Used some silicone and the bolts I no longer needed to plug up the LX rack holes which are in a different location. Also, the spacers have different sizes where the longer ones needed to be in the front. Otherwise, a pretty easy install. Just needed my neighbor to help lift off the OEM one and then put on the new one. Test drove today and no whistling or detectable wind noise (didn't go on freeway yet). Otherwise, pretty happy with it. Rained last night with my rig outside and no noticeable leaks, so I think I'm good to go.

The only problem is I can't figure out how to install my existing Yakima FatCat6 ski rack onto this new rack. The old Yakima mounting hardware expects oval shaped crossbars. I bought their T-slot kit, but the bolt head is too big and won't fit in the groove of the Prospeed crossbars. Tried searching some forums for Prinsu solutions and it appears others did something similar, but couldn't find the actual answer on hardware needed. Any help here greatly appreciated.

One tip to help others with a 06 (and probably 07) LX, the YouTube videos on removing the OEM rack are not right for this model year. The OEM rack caps in the front and rear do NOT lift straight up. Instead, it appears they've been redesigned to lift forward (for the front ones) and back for the rear ones. Here you can see the two clips for the front ones. I used the orange plastic prying tool to lift around the rubber gasket to break the seal due to gunk and there is a rubber flap in the front you can put fingers under to slowly lift up and out.

Also, it appears they changed from using a torx bolt (as seen in the YouTube videos) to a regular 12mm bolt which made ti easier:

If anyone in the Seattle/Eastside area wants a free OEM Willow Green roof rack, let me know.

 

[Whoareu2200]

ARB SWING OUT BEARING REPLACEMENT
My swing was getting harder to close and rattled so replaced bearing. Couldnt find anything online.

 

[WatsonCA]

Hi, I’m a newbie and this my first post. I have been watching the forum for a couple of years now and have found a lot of helpful info. I bought an LC100 new in ‘99 and it’s about to hit 250,000 miles. It has remained stock since purchase except for addition of an Alpine Radio INE-S290HD Amp and Speakers in 2013, a Borla Exhaust in 2017, new Leather on 1st & 2nd row seating and WeatherTech floor/cargo liners in 2020.

It’s getting a quarter million-mile update. We just disposed of a Mercedes Sprinter RV and will now use the LC to tow our 18 foot, 3,800lb, “Coachmen APEX 15T” Travel Trailer, necessitating a number of upgrades. While doing these we decided to bite the bullet and freshen the overall appearance, remove small dings, scratches and peeling clear coat with a total repaint.

Photos will follow when the LC is back from paint and, as the upgrades are installed:-

OEM upgrades:-

• Front seats backs and base foam cushions
• Door speaker grilles
• Door lamp lenses
• Rear mudguards and brackets
• Shift position (PNRD) indicator
• Shifter knob
• Headliner side air outlet grilles
• Tailgate torsion spring/bar

Non-OEM upgrades:-

• Front and middle row seats, new custom leather
• License Plate changed to “99LC100”
• Tekonsha Primus® IQ Trailer Brake Controller in the ashtray space
• Sherpa Equipment Co. 92" X 51" Oxford Roof Rack
• Clearview Towing Mirrors
• Engine Splash Guards changed to Rad Rubber Designs
• Interior lights changed to LED
• 4 spoke ‘Loncky” Leather Steering Wheel cover

Vendors used:-

• Autonation Toyota (Pinellas Park FL) - Complete re-paint and misc. small parts
• Landcruiser Heaven – OEM front seats foam cushions
• Classic Soft Trim, Tampa, FL – Custom seat leather supply and fitting
• CruiserParts – OEM speaker grilles
• OEM Part Source – Mudguards, brackets, tailgate spring and misc. fasteners
• Rad Rubber Designs – Engine splash guards
• Amayama Trading Co. (UAE Warehouse) – OEM door lamp lenses, shift position (PNRD) indicator and air outlet grilles
• Atlantic British Ltd. – Towing mirrors
• E-Bay – OEM shifter knob and Loncky steering wheel cover
• Sherpa Equipment Co. – Oxford roof rack

More to follow ……

 

[gil12]

Finally got around to replacing the fuel pump I bought over two years ago. (I replaced it preventatively at 184K.)

Flintnapper's instructions were all I needed. It is disconcerting to have the thing off and see all that good gasoline down that hole looking for trouble. I appreciated his reminder to disconnect the battery and keep any spark inducing tool far away.

His post is: Thank You Toyota! ...Fuel Pump Replacement. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/thank-you-toyota-fuel-pump-replacement.940084/page-3

Gil

 

[dbfw]

Keep us posted. I probably need to do something similar.

@awesomeissquid and @mdcoa

The good news is I confirmed this was the fix for mine. We've had about 2 inches of rain the last couple days here, and back to just the normal seepage around the glass to body seal which drips into the tray as normal. The bad news is I probably picked the worst possible sealant to use, it was a bit of an emergency repair so I grabbed what I had in the garage, which turned out to have a 7 to 14 day total cure time. So far it's still sealing in its partially cured state, and maybe will cure out fully whenever we get a few dry days. If not, I'll scrape it out and use some of the 3M 4000 I have, which will do it for sure.

 

[213374U]

Dressed up the fairlead a little bit

Got it on Amazon as an open package/defect for $120. Couldn't pass it up at that price. Took a gamble and when it got to me there was a single rounded corner from being dropped once.