Nice gear! Audiophile? How's the high-res with your setup?
I've been meaning to upgrade the h/u in my LC but have too many other things I need to do before going this route.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (54 Viewers)
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I've been meaning to upgrade the h/u in my LC but have too many other things I need to do before going this route.
Did the long term preventive solution: Installed the Hewitt Technologies Secondary Air Induction System (S.A.I.S) Bypass Kit:
Plug & Play to the MAF and laid the wire to connect to the starter relay. 1
job. I tapped the wire to terminal #2 to the starter relay
However, the driver and the passenger side block-off plates is indeed a pain (take my word for it it’s no joke lol)
Tools used:
• 10mm ratcheting wrench
• 3/8” ratchet with 10mm socket,
• couple of 3/8” extensions
• 3/8” universal joint
• 1/2” breaker bar
• 3/8” to 1/2” socket adapter to loosen the 10mm nut for the block-off plate
Used a mini pry bar to create that separation enough to slide the block-off plate.
Reason for this preventative mod, I have an 06Lx with VVTi 2UZ (with SAIS) and the CEL usually comes up when it’s 40°-50°F ambient temperature and you do a cold start. And with winter looming just right around the corner, this is a must before that valve eventually fails and gets stuck. So with this kit, hopefully, that is history. Thank you @hewitttech (Paul) for the prompt response on my email inquiry.
5
️ rating, proudly US Made.
Plug & Play to the MAF and laid the wire to connect to the starter relay. 1
job. I tapped the wire to terminal #2 to the starter relay
However, the driver and the passenger side block-off plates is indeed a pain (take my word for it it’s no joke lol)
Tools used:
• 10mm ratcheting wrench
• 3/8” ratchet with 10mm socket,
• couple of 3/8” extensions
• 3/8” universal joint
• 1/2” breaker bar
• 3/8” to 1/2” socket adapter to loosen the 10mm nut for the block-off plate
Used a mini pry bar to create that separation enough to slide the block-off plate.
Reason for this preventative mod, I have an 06Lx with VVTi 2UZ (with SAIS) and the CEL usually comes up when it’s 40°-50°F ambient temperature and you do a cold start. And with winter looming just right around the corner, this is a must before that valve eventually fails and gets stuck. So with this kit, hopefully, that is history. Thank you @hewitttech (Paul) for the prompt response on my email inquiry.
5
️ rating, proudly US Made.
Last edited:
Thank you!
But I'm not an audiophile, couldn't tell the specifics on audio quality improvement. That's the only Navigation Head Unit I was able to find in the chip apocalypse (Nav models are rarely in stock.
Lucked out with an open box that showed up on Best buy for a moment. The first open box had a lot of missing accessories but an associate helped me locate another open box with complete accessories that was a 30 minute drive away and I took it.
But I'd say audio quality improved significantly. The Nakamichi Subwoofer's disconnected with the current setup, getting a sub is not on my list currently
That's excellent. Can you share some tips on how you routed the wires to rear camera?
Can you share more details on how you accomplished this? I have an 03 LX and am wondering if I can do something similar.
Replaced 265k miles oem springs with OME 865’s. Wanted to replace them with new OEM’s but after waiting for 2 weeks the dealership couldn’t get them and just cancelled the order. Added bags in case of a weekend trip with the in-laws loaded with luggage. Waiting a few days for the new springs to settle a bit before adjusting the t- bars. Added a 10mm packer to the driver’s side. Gave me almost 2in lift from the saggy old ones, but it should go down a bit.. didn’t look for lift, just to get my butt a bit firmer and get the rake back to spec, and it did just that, nice cornering, much better ride, it doesn’t shutter anymore on bumps, doesn’t bounce much, feels good!
I also swapped in OME 865s--paired with new OEM TOYOTA shocks--but used OME 10mm trim packers on both sides. I noticed the lift was consistent across both sides so I didn't give it another thought. I know OME used to provide one spring slightly longer than the other to compensate for the driver/fuel tank? Is the trim packer (or an extra one in my case) necessary or is it totally dependent upon individual applications?
I know originals are different sizes specifically for those reasons, fuel and driver's weight, so I wanted to replicate that with these springs, but in my personal case it's also because I am a heavy load too, I'm close to 275#, and even with the stock springs the driver's side was 3/4in lower than pass. I keep only one seat in the 3rd row, on the passenger side, the other one I don't usually need so it stays in the garage, and since last time I measured and adjusted the front torsion bars, about 2 years ago, the front is also off by more than 1/2in.. obviously driver's side lower. You might not need it if you load your truck proportionally. My shocks are also Toyota Tokiko with less than 10k miles on them, still look and feel new.
Armor complete and winch wired up
For sure! Saw a geared up 100 eastbound on 79 (near the HEB at AW Grimes) yesterday around noon, was that one of yours?
I haven't looked at a needle and thread since that Grade 7 Home Economics class, but I finally started to recover my steering wheel with the Loncky cover. There is absolutely no way I would even attempt to do this with the wheel installed in the vehicle.
JDM Journeys
Moderator
Of course. Been thinking about a minor build thread - perhaps I'll start with this? My 70 series generally gets most of my attention. LOL
LCT
SILVER Star
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Well, I installed and immediately removed RAD Rubber Splash guards.
Excellent quality product but purchase not necessary as I believed this was an improvement but it's simply a replacement. My OEM splash guards were absolutely correct.
So now, I have it for sale
forum.ih8mud.com
Excellent quality product but purchase not necessary as I believed this was an improvement but it's simply a replacement. My OEM splash guards were absolutely correct.
So now, I have it for sale
SOLD - [CAN-QC] - New RAD Rubber 100 serie/LX470 Engine Splash Guards
New RAD Rubber 100 serie/LX470 Engine Splash Guards installed and immediately removed. I didn't even drive the vehicle with it. Excellent quality product. Purchase not necessary as I believed this was an improvement but it's simply a replacement. My OEM splash guards were absolutely correct...
forum.ih8mud.com
TRDdrew
SILVER Star
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Well i have been chasing down a rough idle / misfire in the LX i recently bought. after further investigation i found the the passenger cam was 2 teeth off of TDC. on top of that the belt was disintegrating and there was a lot of rubber build up in the timing covers (probably the cause of the jump in timing as well) proceeded to do the TB job and she is running perfectly now. I went ahead and tossed on the factory 20's off my Tundra
Spent 4 nights in Death Valley. Starting in Olancha and exiting through Eureka rd onto 168. Checked out spots for stargazing. Didn't see a single Land Cruiser! (Shameful! ) saw about 1,000,000 jeeps. They must peel them out like potato chips. (Premium gas at Furnace Creek was $7.14, ouch.) Had good weather. Was 22 degrees at 7,000 feet on the last night and my English Black Lab finally looked like he wasn't too hot.
Nice truss Dob! Is that a custom scope?
Yup, I made most everything but the focuser and secondary mirror. Works well. Parts are over engineered to withstand the bumpity bumpity of dirt road travel. My only complaint is that it takes about 20 minutes to put together or pack up.
