MDK
Can’t dance
Dude this same bolt just broke on me yesterday... what’s your plan of attack to get it out?
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (41 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
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Yeah that bracket is directly under the from AC drain. Makes it rust even in the driest climates!. Cut or chisel out the nut on the other side and replace with stainless steel bolt and nut
Wired up the fogs and turns on my new Ironman. Upgrading to LED fogs this week. Still considering wiring up the DRL's but man, that will take some work--to only have them on when the headlights are not.
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Cool - seems from the replies that at least it's not just me, this really is a pain in the ass to do.
Did you just chop yours off and splice a new pigtail in, or did you wind up crushing the old connector (pliers?) to get it loose from the old alt? The main approach I haven't tried yet is caveman style with a set of channel locks since I was afraid I'd wind up smooshing that connector. But if it's $11 or so to get a new one...
This looks amazing, you're inspiring me to catch up with this project, I have the SwitchPro 9100 sitting in my garage!
MDK
Can’t dance
made 2 phone calls, sent 3 emails, new radiator is on the way. No questions asked other than pics of the flaw. Customer service was friendly and helpful. Should have a replacement soon, and I don’t have to send this one back so I’ll be plastic welding the crack and using it like that until the new one comes. Great experience here despite broken rad.
Thinking about getting F5's for my 100. Do you happen to recall the tire specs? This looks great!
I just crushed the old connector with my fingers and separated the wires, then plugged them into the new connector.
Removed the resonator and location of tail pipe. That along with the new bumper, even with the weight of it, and mounting the spare on the back will give me about 4-5 inches more clearance at the back end.
I'm actually in the process of doing the same thing for mine while getting rid of the stock DRLs. I was thinking of just tapping into the DRL signal and feeding it into a relay...just need to research which wire to tap into. I also thought about wiring it so the DRL turns off when the corresponding turn signal is on.
Damn! These things are heavy.
After removing the AHC accumulators and parts that were attached to the frame, I wanted to clean up any surface rust left behind where the accumulator made contact. I used a wire wheel to polish down the surface. Primed and painted with black engine paint. I just want it to be clean and covered before I install the rock sliders.
Any tips on how to remove the top nuts on the top part of the frame rails?
I believe in theory this should work as the DRL light would trigger the relay. Just need to find which wire to tap. I'd love to have this feature work. I'd be fine with just leaving the DRL on with the turn signals. Let me know if you find that DRL wire.
I managed to get two to break loose with a long 12mm box end followed by a Gear Wrench ratcheting box end. The other two I had to cut off with a Sawzall. Once I got some room to apply leverage I could remove them. I cut off the studs and ground off any remnants that were holding the accumulators. I still need to remove the unit that is inside the frame. I know there is a brake line that runs by it so I need to be careful with that one.
Do you mean for the globes and the big tank on the side? It's a nightmare. 12mm ratcheting wrench and 12mm on flexy head ratchet.
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Quality tools (like Kingchrome), plenty WD40 
