What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (38 Viewers)

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Awesome mod but I'd only put light stuff in there for reasons mentioned. What a PITA at the grocery store.

It’s honestly not so bad since I focused on moving light bulky stuff in there—just different. As long as I remember it now opens like a 70s pick up truck tailgate, all will be well.

And theresmore room for groceries!
 
Drove truck in today after @Superdude gutted the AHC out for me. Front settled a tad, so i'll adjust preload on the bars this weekend. Truck rides great, had a rear trailing arm that had a chewed up bushing that was causing me a driveline clunk. All gone now with the MetalTech rear arms.

The suspension set-up (which was ordered for bumpers) is a tad stiff, but not uncomfortable stiff. Just not wallowy that the full soft setting was. Closer to the sport setting.
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Fronts settled a bit so Im gonna adjust those torsions a bit this weekend.

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Heres my filler panel.
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Hopefully later this month i'll get it into a friends shop to waterjet rear seat mounts.
Nice filler panel- I think I'd like to know more about your 2nd row Scheel-Man (if thats what those seats are) mod.
 
Adjusting my OME tbars post-bumper. Going to drive it around today to settle it and then will take my rake and droop measurements. Driving nice so far with diff drop and SPC UCA's. Photo is a bit of an optical illusion since my driveway is sloped. It is not higher in the front.

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Nice filler panel- I think I'd like to know more about your 2nd row Scheel-Man (if thats what those seats are) mod.
thanks,

I havent made the mount for the seats but im going to make a waterjet cut solid panel that has quick releases for the seats amd a filler panel to butt up to the front seat backs, so I can remove the seats and have a large platform for the dogs on longer trips.
 
After about 18 years of having a hard time pivoting the 2/3 side of the rear seat forward, finally broke-down and committed to the - roughly - five hour job to adjust the latch mechanism.
Was down to laying on top of the folded seat and using a broom handle to fulcrum the rear pull handle to release the seat...
Luckily adjustment is easy. Also found out why the side latch handle was worthless, as the cable attachment had disappeared. So I twisted them turnbuckles and jury-rigged an attachment for the side latch handle.
Cleaned the inside of bottom panel and removed 22 years worth of cattle dog hair and snacks snuck in there and dropped by my two daughters...
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In case folks were wondering what it looks like under there. Kept putting this job off due to perceived effort. Lots of upholstery edging and screws, but wasn't nearly as hard to put back together as I had feared. Altho that seat has gotta weigh about 120 pounds!
Now pivoting the seat is easy-peazy once again!
 
thanks,

I havent made the mount for the seats but im going to make a waterjet cut solid panel that has quick releases for the seats amd a filler panel to butt up to the front seat backs, so I can remove the seats and have a large platform for the dogs on longer trips.
Very cool. I'll be watching' for that. Do you have Scheel-Mann seats in the front as well?
 
Let's see what I did in the last 2 hours:
1) Changed engine oil and filter
2) installed a Fumoto valve
3) installed @TRAIL TAILOR supplied rear control arm bracket skids
4) dropped the front diff and put it back up after wiring up the eLocker

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Whats the reason for the bracket over the rear lower control arm?
They were on sale :rofl:

Kidding aside, I have smashed those poor brackets on unforgiving surfaces so many times that they were getting all bent up. In fact I had to use a BFH to bring them close to their natural shape to even put the reinforcements on!
@TRAIL TAILOR product is top notch. It came with new longer bolts for the control arms, self tapping bolts for the brackets and even the correct sized drill bit!! It literally couldn't be any easier - thanks Jason!

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Let's see what I did in the last 2 hours:
1) Changed engine oil and filter
2) installed a Fumoto valve
3) installed @TRAIL TAILOR supplied rear control arm bracket skids
4) dropped the front diff and put it back up after wiring up the eLocker

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Does that time include pulling cvs and undoing ball joints, and then recoing them? If so, nicely done!!! I may need to up my game...
 
They were on sale :rofl:

Kidding aside, I have smashed those poor brackets on unforgiving surfaces so many times that they were getting all bent up. In fact I had to use a BFH to bring them close to their natural shape to even put the reinforcements on!
@TRAIL TAILOR product is top notch. It came with new longer bolts for the control arms, self tapping bolts for the brackets and even the correct sized drill bit!! It literally couldn't be any easier - thanks Jason!

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You are more than welcome. Thank your for the continued orders and support!

Jason
 
Does that time include pulling cvs and undoing ball joints, and then recoing them? If so, nicely done!!! I may need to up my game...

Not even close man, I just undid the center-bracket (also a @TRAIL TAILOR supplied diff drop) with 4 m17 bolts (2 on each side), front and rear arm bolts and then just let it slip down on my jack for about 6 inches.
Had I not foolishly forgotten to wire the plug up before installing the diff, all of this would have been unnecessary - but I have never been mistaken as a smart person :hillbilly:
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Whats the reason for the bracket over the rear lower control arm?
Mine are presently cracked from genuinely minimal wheeling. No biggie I’ll just weld them up but I wish I had these to prevent that.
 
Yep LCA mount protection should be on every 100 owner's list if you plan on wheeling hard. I also have the Trail Tailor brackets and drag them a lot. They get about the same amount of use on rocks as my sliders do. Still holding up great.

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Is it the arm that is cracking or the bracket? I assume the arm which is why the "heavy duty models" are made of thicker material around the ends?
 

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