The SOR seat covers are freaking amazing. They are a perfect fit as they are designed specifically for the 100. Couldn't be happier. Had them on my 80 as well. Bombproof.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (25 Viewers)
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The SOR seat covers are freaking amazing. They are a perfect fit as they are designed specifically for the 100. Couldn't be happier. Had them on my 80 as well. Bombproof.
Nice.. Which color did you go with?
VinylSeats
SILVER Star
Would love to see some pictures. I have been contemplating the SOR covers for some time.
Mine felt weak when I bought my rig. Turns out I had a frozen front caliper piston and one of the rear caliper slide pins was stuck. After fixing those issues when I threw new pads in, it feels way better. 175k on the odo for ref.
Also, it'll never be close to an M2. lol
I did what only a moron Land Cruiser would do. Put a wind deflector and the new fancy rear wiper on a rust bubbling rear hatch on a beater truck. Thanks to @ClassyJalopy for the deflector, I did have to paint it black since it was color matched tan. I had a heck of a time getting it lined up because when the PO lost the deflector the left side mount dented the hatch down but I made it work. As you can see I got some growing rust bubbles, I figure at this point its a lost cause. Water has gotten inside the lift hatch because of the damage that took off the original deflector. My plan is to just get lift hatch from someone else whos parting locally or maybe a junkyard, so if you know anyone in the North Carolina-Virginia-Maryland area willing to part with one...let me know. Any ideas to slow the bubbling appreciated too.
Thanks for the info. Just ordered a set from Slee this afternoon.
ElHefe
SILVER Star
Installed the @LandCruiserPhil mud flap eliminator kit. Dropped ten pounds and added 50 HP.
Also started to attacked some surface rust on the frame with Gem Rust Killer. I know we’re all tired of wearing masks but definitely wear a mask with this stuff. Strong!
Bought a pull out tray from an LR3. Exactly 43 inches wide with 5/8 combined clearance on the sides. Apparently these were an 800 euro option from the dealer. The build quality is excellent: marine grade ply + high grade aluminum framing + stout roller bearings. Paid $60 and it’s nearly mint. Will eventually repurpose as a top slide on my new drawer system.
Also started to attacked some surface rust on the frame with Gem Rust Killer. I know we’re all tired of wearing masks but definitely wear a mask with this stuff. Strong!
Bought a pull out tray from an LR3. Exactly 43 inches wide with 5/8 combined clearance on the sides. Apparently these were an 800 euro option from the dealer. The build quality is excellent: marine grade ply + high grade aluminum framing + stout roller bearings. Paid $60 and it’s nearly mint. Will eventually repurpose as a top slide on my new drawer system.
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This is my takeaway from it:
- Make sure you have all tools laid out at the ready. Once you disconnect a brake line it will constantly but slowly drip and you want to minimize fluid loss. Try not to let the reservoir get below that min line. A 10mm flare nut wrench is a requirement, you can not (and should not) do it with a standard open end wrench. I got one from O'Reilly with a swivel head and it made my life so much easier I highly recommend it. Channel locks work great getting the old clips out, ball peen hammer gets the new ones in
- I used a paint tray (aluminum foil tray would also work) to catch all the fluid. Like I said it constantly drips so it's nice that it drips into a large container like that while you're prepping the new lines and cleaning the threads on the original fittings
- Wear gloves & safety glasses, brake fluid is terrible for your skin & eyes
- Removal of the wheels is not required but does make things easier. If you don't the brake fluid will get on the inside of the wheel and when you drive next it will sling all on your undercarriage
This is how the copper washers are supposed to go on the banjo bolt: Bolt head > copper washer > banjo fitting > copper washer > into caliper
Right on Man. Looks good.. Picked up a set of gearwrench swivel head flares for the rack job.. They make life easier in many cramped places with hydraulic fittings.
Put in some amazing calipers from O'Reilly's last year for the Taco. I might get lucky and find some like these again for the 100.
Mated them to some brakes with a FG stopping coefficient to shorten stopping distance.
The larger O'Reillys banjo bolts allow more fluid to flow faster from the line to the caliper. Less fluid flow obstruction.
With the way this combination of brakes perform, I don't need to even think about the Tundra upgrade.
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WKOR makes the best sliders in business, IMHO.
Are those Brakebest brand calipers?
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I did this mod a while back and didn't weight the stock mud flaps and brackets, are they really 10lbs?
Hahah I know its not gonna be anything like the M2. I was just saying what I was used to. I'm gonna add lines and banjo bolts to the list and see where that gets us.
Well, it was 7 weeks ago....but I haven't had time since Hurricane Laura to post this... Ugly hidden winch mount.
forum.ih8mud.com
100 Series Hidden Winch Mount...another one
I'll update this later. I'm busy recovering from Hurricane Laura and preparing for Hurricane Delta. I went with the Smittybilt X2O 10,000 lb winch. Good warranty (on paper) and water proof which is important in South Louisiana. I bought the Harbor Freight Universal winch mount and called up a...
forum.ih8mud.com
Nothing major this week but new heater hoses, heater Ts and front sway bar bushings. Nothing sexy but for sure solid moves.
Added the following -
Dissent Front & Rear Bumper
ARB Front & Rear Lockers
SPod Bantomx
Icon Six Speed 17's
285/70R17 Nitto Trail Grappler
Dissent Front & Rear Bumper
ARB Front & Rear Lockers
SPod Bantomx
Icon Six Speed 17's
285/70R17 Nitto Trail Grappler
What sliders are you running? Is there enough of a ledge to step on to get in the cab?
Yesterday/today: Fixed the last issue with the radio upgrade. Installed a parking brake bypass for the Alpine head unit so now all the features work.
Still working on fitting the trim back on around the new subwoofer in the stock location. I'm gonna take the speaker grill apart next and might just cut a hole in it.
Still working on fitting the trim back on around the new subwoofer in the stock location. I'm gonna take the speaker grill apart next and might just cut a hole in it.
I wanted a rear mounted house battery setup but not take away usable space inside the vehicle. I added a house battery bank with 3x 16Ah LifePo4 batteries, a 400watt inverter, A Steca 8A solar MPPT charger into my truck. I snuck them behind the rear quarter interior panel where the (2nd) factory DVD player was. They ended up fitting perfectly in the cavity and I made a little battery box from some aluminum angle. In total these will give me about 615 watt-hours or 48 Ah of total house battery capacity. Not a huge amount, but enough to charge my drone, a laptop or two, run my fridge, and power any LED lights but most importantly will run an electric blanket all night! I probably won't use the solar input much if at all but since I had it I wired it in anyway. The battery bank can always be expanded if I figure a clever place to hide more batteries.
I chose Miady batteries as they were the cheapest LiFePo4s I found: https://amzn.to/2SBNJUo These batteries have build in BMS that manages cells, have over and under voltage protection, thermal protection, over current protection, charge protection, etc, etc. So basically I can just hook them all up together in parallel and forget about em! Also used a little fuse block to keep the wiring tidy.
I used a Blue Sea Systems fuse box to keep the wiring tidy and isolated from the vehicle 12v system: https://amzn.to/2GJolJt
Added dynamat to the inside fender to block some noise since I'm opening this area up a little but also to prevent dents if the batteries move a little bit.
Dynamat: https://amzn.to/2FaEDKZ
#ad
I used a Victron DC-DC charger and manually activated by a switch through a Bosch 75A relay. Also reorganized the area and modified the stock plastic shelf to hold the equipment a little nicer. In the future I want it to be automatically switched just not sure exactly how I want to accomplish that yet.
Victron DC-DC charger: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr 12/12-18A (220W) Isolated DC-DC Converter: Car Electronics
Bosch 75 amp relay: Amazon.com: - Pins, 12 V, 75 A, Bosch 0332002168 Normal Open Power Relays: Automotive
Cool LED voltmeter gauge with built-in USB charger: Amazon.com: Digital Meter Panel, DROK 2pcs Automotive Voltmeter Battery Level Monitor, 5V 2A Dual USB Port LED Battery Electric Quantity Indicator Voltage Tester Volt Detector Multimeter for Auto Car: Industrial & Scientific
All this and now I have reached my ultimate goal of.....ELECTRIC HEATING PAD!
Electrowarmth 12v heating pad: Amazon.com: Electrowarmth Twin, Heated Mattress Pad, Non-Fitted, Size 36 x 60, Model# T36 12V Used in Trucks, RVs, Campers: Automotive
I chose Miady batteries as they were the cheapest LiFePo4s I found: https://amzn.to/2SBNJUo These batteries have build in BMS that manages cells, have over and under voltage protection, thermal protection, over current protection, charge protection, etc, etc. So basically I can just hook them all up together in parallel and forget about em! Also used a little fuse block to keep the wiring tidy.
I used a Blue Sea Systems fuse box to keep the wiring tidy and isolated from the vehicle 12v system: https://amzn.to/2GJolJt
Added dynamat to the inside fender to block some noise since I'm opening this area up a little but also to prevent dents if the batteries move a little bit.
Dynamat: https://amzn.to/2FaEDKZ
#ad
I used a Victron DC-DC charger and manually activated by a switch through a Bosch 75A relay. Also reorganized the area and modified the stock plastic shelf to hold the equipment a little nicer. In the future I want it to be automatically switched just not sure exactly how I want to accomplish that yet.
Victron DC-DC charger: Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr 12/12-18A (220W) Isolated DC-DC Converter: Car Electronics
Bosch 75 amp relay: Amazon.com: - Pins, 12 V, 75 A, Bosch 0332002168 Normal Open Power Relays: Automotive
Cool LED voltmeter gauge with built-in USB charger: Amazon.com: Digital Meter Panel, DROK 2pcs Automotive Voltmeter Battery Level Monitor, 5V 2A Dual USB Port LED Battery Electric Quantity Indicator Voltage Tester Volt Detector Multimeter for Auto Car: Industrial & Scientific
All this and now I have reached my ultimate goal of.....ELECTRIC HEATING PAD!
Electrowarmth 12v heating pad: Amazon.com: Electrowarmth Twin, Heated Mattress Pad, Non-Fitted, Size 36 x 60, Model# T36 12V Used in Trucks, RVs, Campers: Automotive
