Do you have a link? Could not find it and really need one.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (34 Viewers)
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Mine is a slick top too. I wanted it that way so I didn't have to worry about damage from the factory rack. I've got a Prospeed to put on it now
mdcoa
SILVER Star
Oops—Etsy. Mounts compatible element fire extinguisher | Etsy
I’ll correct original post and add link...
Thanks!
Sine my last update, I have had the LC undercoated, replaced the drivers side window switches, installed a trailer hitch, had to have the drivers door adjusted and that still isn't right (was not the best experience), I have drained the antifreeze and replaced it with distilled water and a cooling system cleaner since I have not had heat in the LC since I bought it.
I found out that the rear heater was bypassed. I contacted the previous owner and he had no idea since it didn't own it all that long. I was a little nervous about hooking it back up. I had to replace the T's and found that the rear heater may have been bypassed because one of the Ts was in bad shape.
So now I have heat in the rear heater, but not the front. So I just ordered some extra length of hose to back flush the front heater to see if its just clogged or needs to be burped.
I have a set of new door lock motors that I will be installing soon and a set of key transmitters to program. Also on the list is a new set of headlights that I have decided to put in dual bi-xenon projectors since they throw more light than the LEDs. I went with the newer style of headlights, since they are capable of holding bigger projectors.
I also bought a new drivers side window motor, but now I think I might not have needed it. If it gives me any more issue with closing I will put that in.
And lastly, I have to replace the electronic rear diff wire harness. The one on the LC has been burned thru from a previous exhaust leak. I have the harness, but the undercoating was just done, and even going into the 3 week after it was done, it is still off gassing. Its not easily replaced from what I have read on here. So that will have to wait until I know I have a good amount of time to get it done.
I found out that the rear heater was bypassed. I contacted the previous owner and he had no idea since it didn't own it all that long. I was a little nervous about hooking it back up. I had to replace the T's and found that the rear heater may have been bypassed because one of the Ts was in bad shape.
So now I have heat in the rear heater, but not the front. So I just ordered some extra length of hose to back flush the front heater to see if its just clogged or needs to be burped.
I have a set of new door lock motors that I will be installing soon and a set of key transmitters to program. Also on the list is a new set of headlights that I have decided to put in dual bi-xenon projectors since they throw more light than the LEDs. I went with the newer style of headlights, since they are capable of holding bigger projectors.
I also bought a new drivers side window motor, but now I think I might not have needed it. If it gives me any more issue with closing I will put that in.
And lastly, I have to replace the electronic rear diff wire harness. The one on the LC has been burned thru from a previous exhaust leak. I have the harness, but the undercoating was just done, and even going into the 3 week after it was done, it is still off gassing. Its not easily replaced from what I have read on here. So that will have to wait until I know I have a good amount of time to get it done.
Land Cruiser 100 Series in Mexico - Opinions on using Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 GL-5 in both differntials and transfer case . My Land Cruiser is 2004 with 140K miles. I live in central Mexico, and if you think Toyota Fluids are expensive in USA the cost here is much higher. One concern I have is that the Synpower is full synthetic. Thoughts would be appreciated as the synpower is locally available and about $20 / liter. At this cost I can afford to change every 30K miles. Use for minimal off roading but a lot of high speed, long-distance trips. Thanks in advance.
Well I set out to do a pop-top on my 100 about a year back, and never got funds together for materials, and I was kind of lacking in ideas! Over the last year it's been knocking around my skull so much and I finally have time with quarantine and money to make this happen, so the idea is to cut on the interior of the gutter, about four inches from the front windshield back to the rear hatch 3 inches out!
All the lifting mechanics and weight of the roof will utilize the existing roof rack bolting spots, going to be running linear actuators for pushing the weight, not exactly sure of the scissor lifting idea, but the other shops doing it have a lot more roof space than I have, so we might have to mix it up.
I'd prefer this one piece roof, but if this scissor lifting doesn't work out might have to switch to a two piece roof, something like that orange 100 made by the swiss guy.
(I'll be starting with lifting mechanism before any cut or roof is made)
I'm hoping for 76 standing inches inside the back, and also 76 inches of usable bed length.
My LC has a airbag curtain which will remain after install, and we also plan on reinforcing structure over cab for roll over-protection. We will be having two horizontal L angles replacing original structure, similar to the picture titled crossL!
If anyone has ideas or suggestions for improvement I'd greatly appreciate fresh thought!
All the lifting mechanics and weight of the roof will utilize the existing roof rack bolting spots, going to be running linear actuators for pushing the weight, not exactly sure of the scissor lifting idea, but the other shops doing it have a lot more roof space than I have, so we might have to mix it up.
I'd prefer this one piece roof, but if this scissor lifting doesn't work out might have to switch to a two piece roof, something like that orange 100 made by the swiss guy.
(I'll be starting with lifting mechanism before any cut or roof is made)
I'm hoping for 76 standing inches inside the back, and also 76 inches of usable bed length.
My LC has a airbag curtain which will remain after install, and we also plan on reinforcing structure over cab for roll over-protection. We will be having two horizontal L angles replacing original structure, similar to the picture titled crossL!
If anyone has ideas or suggestions for improvement I'd greatly appreciate fresh thought!
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Please start a dedicated thread for this, I’m here for it
Badass!
Please start a dedicated thread for this, I’m here for it
This!!!
Well, haven't done much except decided to keep it and invest in it a bit cosmetically. I had a 80 series for 3.5 years, 2014-2017, it was triple locked with armor and I picked it up for $3500 needing some mechanical repairs (it was running fine). great deal, but it had some rust and was a bit rough cosmetically and I got tired of that and not enough power for family of 5 on Texas highway trips (rolling on 35's anyway). Got a 2006 Land Cruiser in 2017 for $11500, great deal and has always run great but again a bit of rust a bit rough cosmetically. Comes with getting "great deals". So after 3 years I was contemplating getting something nicer, not focusing on price as much and getting an older 200 series. But I just like the looks of the 100 too much, and mine runs fine, so decided to replace shift knob, speaker grilles, get first and second row leather, and get some paint correction done during a thorough detailing. In Progress but looking forward to sprucing it up a bit.
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Installed Slee stainless steel braided brake lines, brake bleed w/Techstream (don’t even know the last time this was done, it needed it bad!), and tried my best at cleaning the undercarriage.
How does it feel with fresh lines and fluid? I just got my LX and coming from a BMW M2 the brakes feel weak.
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Much better! Not nearly as spongy and it seems to catch earlier in the travel of the pedal but idk. It seems to be smoother and more comfortable stopping. Most importantly - not leaking! Rear axle lines (I have VSC) are extended 2” so that’s nice
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I believe what you experiencing is called "the eccentricities of driving an older vehicle"
Guy is seriously comparing M2 brakes to a huge old truck? Dude....
Replaced shifter knob and front speaker grills last night! Small start.
I am going to do a light brake bleed with techstream as well. Do you physically have to pump the pedal still?
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Yes, Techstream has step-by-step instructions. Once you get into the “air bleed” utility you choose which line you want to bleed, hold the pedal to the floor, crack the bleeder, then press next and it begins actuating the appropriate solenoid.
Ripped out my spare tire from my seized carrier winch last night, ate a ton of rust that came down with it. Was able to finagle my dremel over top of the spare to get to the cable. Realized I was close to getting through just in time to get my head out of the way of the tire when it fell. Now I just need to figure out how to get the rusty-as-can-be bolts moving to get the assembly off the cross member....
