What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (38 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Coated and mostly built my new @airdowngearup SS1 system with @herculiner brush on bed liner. Should have bed lined the divider wings too, now that I think about it.

Kyle from Air Down Gear Up has been VERY helpful and was extremely quick to respond to a question I had Sunday night. I wasn’t expecting a response for a few days and was blown away. So...I ordered a 2nd drawer. Highly recommend!

2CC8DABF-4AD9-4999-9728-C910210B892A.jpeg
 
While my axles are out anyway (broken diff getting new gears and a harrop e-locker next week) I decided to check the CVs, which were just (2 years/20k miles ago) repacked/boots replaced by a Toyota dealer—bless the PO’s heart.
I initially thought —contaminated! But then I did some poking and found out the Toyota grease is just this color and, unless someone says, “swap it out” I’m going to leave well enough alone. This was the joint with the most grease seepage (From the inner clamp, which I tightened up a bit) out of all four, so if this ones good, they all are.

146k on the truck; cv boots/repack done at 126k
F2710C25-482D-45DF-9B8F-B1B85DD3AA49.jpeg
 
While my axles are out anyway (broken diff getting new gears and a harrop e-locker next week) I decided to check the CVs, which were just (2 years/20k miles ago) repacked/boots replaced by a Toyota dealer—bless the PO’s heart.
I initially thought —contaminated! But then I did some poking and found out the Toyota grease is just this color and, unless someone says, “swap it out” I’m going to leave well enough alone. This was the joint with the most grease seepage (From the inner clamp, which I tightened up a bit) out of all four, so if this ones good, they all are.

146k on the truck; cv boots/repack done at 126k
View attachment 2324014
Run 'em! The grease looks great. The serviceable CV clamps available from PFran or McMaster Carr are nice if you don't already have something similar.

 
Made a mess in my garage

49952614876_c52abeb9dd_c.jpg



Carried out an eviction

49952859612_980f41190d_c.jpg


49952856247_61e7c746b8_c.jpg


Made a SST

49952566106_e826148051_c.jpg


Put a sticker on my air box

49952113508_f1419682b8_c.jpg


Just completed a 200k mi "refresh" on my 2003 470, which included timing belt, water pump, starter, alternator, PS pump, valve cover gaskets, plugs/coils, radiator, and associated hoses. It took me almost 2 full weekends spread out over 20+ hours to do it. It really wasnt too bad on a tecnhical level, just time consuming. Its like the Landcruiser equivelant of a 1000pc puzzle. When all finished, I went to start it up (after letting fuel system prime) and it stumbled and died twice, with a rumble. I was really concerned that I messed up the timing but on the third try, it fired right up. No CELS and no signs of leaks after a test drive. It doesnt feel any different on the road, but is definitely smoother and quieter, especially at idle.

A lot of stuff that I replaced was probably ok for a few more miles, but since I was "in there", it made sense to swap out some of the major components that did well over 200k mi, and now should be good for another 200k. (at the rate I drive the truck, thats like 60 years). As others have experienced, the DS starter bolt sucked, and some of the hoses were "welded" onto their fittings and took a little effort to remove. Combination of the write ups in the FAQ, FSM, and the Otramm vidoes helped a lot. The valve cover gaskets were easy with the intake manifold off! Impact wrench worked well for the cam and crank bolts. I got to dust off my 3/4" drive torque wrench that was last used on my 80 crank bolt (was still dialed in at a ridiculous number like 305 ft lbs). Tightening the crank bolt to 180 ft lbs was much nicer. Getting the timing belt on took a minute and I found it easier to get the crank lined up first, then DS cam, then lots of pulling to get the PS cam lined up. Rotated the crank twice to verify everything was on. I did everything at 40* TDC (there is a set of marks there) but you could probably do it at 0* too. Maybe the VVT engines specify 40*, not sure.

If I have to to just a TB/WP in the future, I could probably knock it out in a day at the most. I'd probably remove the radiator again just because it gives you a lot of room to work with.

For those thinking about doing this....go for it! If you can change your oil, you can to a TB/WP. You also learn a lot about the truck in the process. I could now probably tackle a starter replacement trailside, whereas before that would have been an absolute nightmare.


The "after" pile of parts. Very satisfying to look at that!

49952903152_30cafd319f_c.jpg
 
Will do, I work for Dee Zee so will probably design some sliders for it
Good plan. Depending on inteded use, I'd advise you build the new ones much more heavy duty than the typical DeeZee "nerf" bars/steps.
 
Any reason you went with SPC over the Metal Tech arms? Cost?
Cost ($250.00 EBay free shipping) it solved a lot of chatter I was hearing going over speed bumps and pot holes. They are much beefier than stock. Upper rear control arms and panhard bushings will be next month.
 
Any reason you went with SPC over the Metal Tech arms? Cost?
Cost ($250.00 EBay free shipping) it solved a lot of chatter I was hearing going over speed bumps and pot holes. They are much beefier than stock. Upper rear control arms and panhard bushings will be next month.
I'd bet that the SPC arms will last longer too because of the rubber bushings (at one end minimum depending on model) versus the polyurethane bushings that the Metal Tech arms use. Rubber vs. poly is a sore subject for some, but it's indisputable that a quality rubber bushing will outlast a poly bushing every time for typical Cruiser suspension uses. Especially the thin-walled bushings that too many aftermarket control arm manufacturers use - not enough material to absorb the energy transmitted = prematurely worn out, noisy bushings.
 
Replaced my 21 yo, 206k mile radiator today, along with the thermostat. Prior owner did a timing belt, water pump, and all hoses/Ts 18 months ago.
Top turned brown in a hurry over the past few months

20200530_134358-M.jpg

Years of wheeling had definitely decreased the efficiency of this old unit. Nasty
20200530_134416-M.jpg

20200530_134353_HDR-M.jpg

Buttoned back up.
20200530_134424-M.jpg
 
Installed the new rack and centered the steering wheel.
 
Stuck at home, I'm seeing more flaws which I had previously ignored; like this crack in my turn signal lens I filled with epoxy 10 years ago. Replaced for about $100. I can't believe I'm getting so fancy. I might end up getting out my paint roller and take care of more of my peeling paint. ;)
20200529_185000.jpg
20200529_183908.jpg
 
Last edited:
First half of timing belt/water pump job today.

A couple hiccups, the slow AC leak I’ve had since I bought the truck last year turned out to be a small hardline right at the condenser that became a big leak when I slightly moved the lines to get the fan out. Replacement ordered.

Also because my car is from the northeast, I broke one PS pump bolt and one fan bracket bolt, had to break out the drill to get em out. Will pick up some replacements tomorrow and button her up.
295A5EC7-032E-460C-A508-83858358F52C.jpeg

DE876041-244E-4D2A-9A3A-AC91E66E1B94.jpeg

FB2D9C12-D243-43F8-B9E3-695A1AFE38E2.jpeg

DB699271-5091-440F-A0F1-FFF519BD379F.jpeg

E3A623E9-6E4F-4E99-B073-5D0384EC8DEC.jpeg
 
The fun begins. My hood stays up ON ITS OWN now, and the blinkers all work. Big, fancy stuff at Jake’s place.

Question for the hive mind. My suspension creaks on this thing like crazy. Are there any common breakage points or things that get particularly old and dry under these... or is it just a matter of tracking down what bushing needs grease/ replacement and getting that done? I know previousowner got some things replaced as needed, but there sounds to be something else still in need.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom