What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (54 Viewers)

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Any tips for removing the headliner?
i start from the front and work my way back, in order i remove sun visors and handles, then A pillars. back seat i remove handles along with b pillar and c pillar seat belts, same goes for back. most of them are just pop on pop off so it’s easy removal all the way to the back. then unscrew the center lights with a removal tool and the 4 screws.
 
Swapped out a brake caliper flex hose that was looking brittle and showing the start of surface cracks....holy cow these are easy to bleed—my wife, veteran of some Land Rover and Volvo brake bleeding, was like, “we’re done!?”

also finally adjusted my hood after thinking, “man I wonder if that needs to bounce like that on the highway?” Every time I was on the highway for the last 18 months, and then forgetting every time I wasn’t on the highway. if its possible for a job to be negative bananas this might qualify...

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Washed the rig for the first time since maybe last May. Cleans up real nice. And then, of course, it rains within 24 hours LOL!

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Got a ridiculously good deal on some new Escape Gear seat covers. Came with 1st/2nd/3rd row covers with headrests, arm covers and center console cover. Also came with the transmission case cover. These are exceptionally nice. Can see why they are so well regarded. BUT....if you have an LX, be warned....they are backbreaking to install the seat covers. The backs slip right on. But the 2nd row seat bottom on the 60 side is an exercise in absolute frustration and fingernail pulling. The armrest is an exercise in futility. The 100 that these came off they fit perfectly. There is definitely a difference between LX and LC seats. You'll note that the cutout on the side only accommodates the fore/aft controls and not the lumbar. Not a big deal to me, but not cosmetically pleasing (knew this going in though). There is a pocket on the outboard side of the seatback that is useless IMO. It's too close to the b-pillar and seatbelt to be of any use. But, it looks neat. The map pockets are massive. I was able to fit all my mapbooks and guides in the drivers side seatback without any issue.

Originally thought I’d put these in only when going on expeditions and take them out for daily driving. But that ain’t going to happen. These are on and are staying on. Don’t want to go thru that install again anytime soon. I'll have to take them off ultimately to wash them, but don't plan on that for a while.

On an LX the front seat bottoms are much easier to put on if you completely remove the seat. Obviously not the best way if you’re looking for modularity.

The transmission cover is sweet. It has cutouts for the heaters and transmission contol buttons. It has zippered pockets on both sides of the transmission tunnel. More pics coming once I chug a few beers after all that struggle.

The third row will remain unused as I run a drawer system in place of the jump seats.

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Today’s project
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Don’t forget to cut off Alf’s nose
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But first... snap off two wheels studs 🤦🏼‍♂️
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Now I know what my next project is. The lugs seemed fine when I threaded them on by hand a couple months ago for a tire rotation.
 
...and the final product.
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Last summer, we took a road trip to the beach with friends and the truck sagged hitting the rubber helper springs on medium-ish bumps on the highway. It wasn’t horrible but not great— the one downside of a non-AHC truck. Faced with the need to tow the FJ62 about an hour earlier this year to @OTRAMM I wasn’t confident in the 100 doing it based on that road trip experience.

It probably would have been fine but I wimped
out and rented a uhaul truck in addition to a trailer. I’ve towed that much weight before but never when it was close to or slightly over the limits of the tow vehicle.

So this is my solution because I didn’t want to loose the buttery ride by adding heavier duty springs as the truck is empty most of the time. I love that I can dial up the stiffness in 5 minutes with a bike pump. Elegant and ghetto at the same time 😂

I know I’ll sacrifice some flex but this is how the truck is usually used.
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Didn’t get to test it yet because of the wheel stud issue...womp womp.
 
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Well the brake booster motor gave out on me the other day. Managed to find a wrecker with one out of a 2002 4runner. Just swapped out the motor like for like. Easy job. Got lazy and kept the drivers side panels under the steering column on and just used a wobble adapter and some extensions. Here's a pic of the old ones insides vs the new to me one. I think I'm going to re build this one and keep if it decides to act up again. View attachment 2268172View attachment 2268173
I have a fairly new motor and accumulator bought new from Toyota. PM if interested, I installed last year then decided to buy the entire unit.
 
I have a fairly new motor and accumulator bought new from Toyota. PM if interested, I installed last year then decided to buy the entire unit.
Thanks but I already got it all fixed up. Took it apart and it was pretty nasty. Swapped it out with one from an 02 4runner with abs and works like a charm! I think I'll rebuild my old one and see if anyone is interested. Appreciate the thought though!
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Dropped the front diff, sending it over to Cruiser Outfitters for a gear change.

Then a header fell out...

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Some backstory—I bought the headers and all the hardware 9 months ago and was seriously considering just dumping them on eBay after realizing how difficult the drivers side header would be. It's tough to tackle larger projects in mine because I don't have a garage, and it's my daily.

But then coronavirus...and a ton of downtime. I don't have to drive it anymore (and couldn't anyway, without the front diff).

Without the driveline, it's stupid simple to get the old headers off from underneath. Both headers off in about an hour—no broken studs, no rounded nuts...finally, the effort to get a CA truck paid off. Installed the PS manifold in another 30 minutes, and...well, the devil himself invented the DS Doug Thorley manifold. A few of the studs have almost no clearance to the header tube, so it's 1/8-1/4 turn at a time to get a nut back on. And forget about torque specs—gutenteit will have to do.

One nut left to go—got tired last night and gave up.
 
Finally got my Scangauge to monitor engine stuff, especially the all alum radiator and electric fan conversion I did a couple of months ago :)

Had a piece of titanium sheet I used to make the bracket (free from my old job):
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Placed it under where I used to have a ashtray (some fu$# head broke my window 1.5yrs ago and stole it with all the change I had):

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Finally got my Scangauge to monitor engine stuff, especially the all alum radiator and electric fan conversion I did a couple of months ago :)

Had a piece of titanium sheet I used to make the bracket (free from my old job):View attachment 2270198

Placed it under where I used to have a ashtray (some fu$# head broke my window 1.5yrs ago and stole it with all the change I had):

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Make another and I'll buy it off you! That's sweet!
 
Make another and I'll buy it off you! That's sweet!

Haha, mine was quick and dirty. I secured it to the existing steel that houses the ashtray (drilled 2 holes). The scangauge is only held with velcro just in case I wanted to be able to hold it up. The other 2 wires coming out are USB phone connections to my headunit. Probably easier if I make it out of aluminum sheet lol

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