What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (74 Viewers)

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Looks great!! I have some similar peeling along the edge of the rim where at one point someone must have had weights attached there. I take it its pretty difficult to get those areas smooth or even feathered by sanding the chrome layer.
Looking forward to seeing some pics of the whole vehicle!
 
Looks great!! I have some similar peeling along the edge of the rim where at one point someone must have had weights attached there. I take it its pretty difficult to get those areas smooth or even feathered by sanding the chrome layer.
Looking forward to seeing some pics of the whole vehicle!
Yeah if you look closely there are a few spots (near the tire valve) that has high spots where the chrome layer is. Didn’t bother to body work it anymore no more time lol.
@Balto1223 yeah for sure i will try to take some decent shots later 🤙🏻
 
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Did you get the "noise reducing" trim for the Prinsu?


The rubber strip along the bottom of the fairing? Yes i did, it works, and also protect against scratches when installing it.
 
Finally Installed the AC Drain Extension Kit from @CruiserGarage. It was an easy project that gives me some piece of mind knowing I'm no longer activity promoting rust near the front passenger sway bar bracket.

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A few more pictures and details on my build thread.
 
Added proper vinyl attire for southern cruiser crawl

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Finally finished this project. I let this take way too long. My eyes don't do color really well... How does it match up? It looks darker. Came from one of the touch up websites.


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Seems a tad darker in the pics, but that's light likely not being reflected for being surrounded by so much black.

(In other words, I doubt I could notice this in public unless you really pointed it out. Looks good.)
 
Not necessarily all this week but last 2-3.
Powersteering Reservoir hose 3 weeks ago:
Wits End Power Steering Reservoir Hose
Big reco/plug for Wits End PS hose, I replaced my steering rack and hi and lo pressure lines in July. During or before this hose got a slice in it, the oem hose was $80--ridiculous, so I took it off degreased it and put flex seal tape over the slit...which actually largely worked but heat makes it kinda slip and with safety inspection coming I needed to replace it. luckily found Wits Ends hose for $30, its a Continental hydraulic hose, good specs and ratings. Has a nice braided sleeve over it. If you are replacing your steering rack, get the hi and lo pressure lines from rock auto, then get this hose, and youre whole system will be new.
IMG-3325.JPG

and yes, I cleaned everything up and the engine bay after this, its fine now
General tune 2 weeks ago:
After taking the air intake off and cleaning the MAF and the throttle body intake I did a series of seafoam induction cleaning the intake/injectors/etc. using a method from @2001LC, not a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe but some the first rounds and next to none the second rounds. Letting the seafoam deepcreep/spray sit was definitely key. then replaced the following (very cheap from McGeorge Toyota):
All the vacuum lines and idle/up hoses replaced
PCV valve and PCV grommet replaced
Then took off my serp belt and removed my idle pulley, which was spinning freely with minimal noise, used a needle syringe style grease gun attachment and stuck it under the seal to pump in new grease and clean it out. No noise whatsoever now and only spins 1-1.5 revolutions when you spin it by hand. We'll see if that extends it life.
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results wise, truck has an exceptionally smooth idle at 605rpm when warm doesnt dip much below that.
Last Week:
Put on new brake pads ($25 for front and rear after my company discounts and rebate!) in the rear and had rear rotors resurfaced ($10 at Oreillys)
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cheapies obviously, but theyre ceramic, and the rear (front were fine so I left em) are easy to change out, so for $25 I dont care. Took apart rear calipers, cleaned, replaced seal and boots, greased and put back together. Super easy and quick job if you have the right air hose fitting to blow out the piston just follow the FSM.
Install Powertech Stainless Steel Brake lines in the front, and flushed the brake fluid with Toyota Dot 3. Feels great. Did my best to "bed" the brakes.
This weekend (and yesterday):
Rebooted driver side CV - inner was torn but very clean. Replace outer since its probably old. Teeth on the splines arent great but its a new hub flange so I'd rather wait to replace the whole axle.
Wanted to reboot passenger side, both boots were torn to shreads. Grease was completely black. Outer boot has actually been torn since march of this year. In April I just squirted more CV grease in through the sliced opening and cleaned the boot and put flex seal tape over and wrapped all around the boot. I'm not recommending that....but I did then drive 6,000 miles, multiple trails and offroad trips, several water crossings and all without so much as a click. Anyways flex seal eventually unwrapped and came off. Black crap everywhere, I take off the CV and it turns out its one of those 3-ball bearing aftermarket CV axles so I couldnt reboot it even if I wanted to. All that to say these trucks, and even some of their aftermarket components, are tough and its amazing what you can get away with. *as an aside there was some vibrations in the truck with that cv at highway speed but very minimal*
Ordered a brand new toyota cv axle from mcGeorge for $395 shipped and put it in yesterday, drained and filled front diff, buttoned her up and drove her around and now shes all good.
Really just about done (for now), very broke and out of time to work on the truck with a 3rd baby being born and this being the main baby hauler with no back up, can't let it sit on blocks through the week. Plan to remedy this in spring with a real cheap backup vehicle. The truck is currently at 499,450 and im taking my boys and FIL for little offroad camping trip this weekend in Western VA so we'll see if we can crack the long awaited 500,000 mark.
 
New 285/70/r16 Ko2s with the new Copper Method wheels. Did a 2.25" OME lift. Threw on a front TJM bumper. And changed out the tail lights for the 2006 version. Also, new sound system, Apple CarPlay and backup camera. This thing is so fun!!!
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Love tonknow more about the car play system and where to get 2006 rear lights. I always dig the order of color in those lights. Will it work on a 2007 LC?

Your rig is killin!
 
New 285/70/r16 Ko2s with the new Copper Method wheels. Did a 2.25" OME lift. Threw on a front TJM bumper. And changed out the tail lights for the 2006 version. Also, new sound system, Apple CarPlay and backup camera. This thing is so fun!!!
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Really curious about the sound system. I'm thinking to get a tesla styled android system in the center console area but i'm clueless about the speakers and amp situation. I like the stock JL speakers but the bass is totally absent. Sub needs an update and I may as well get a new sound system to boot. Any photos or install insights are much appreciated, Thx
 
Just got the call from Slee. Diff drops back in and mine is on the way! Lifted life starts soon.
 
My LX was starting to pull to the passenger side pretty severely when braking, so I knew it was time to service the front calipers and pads. I ordered all the OEM hardware from the dealer, a set of Aisin/Advics pads from RockAuto (first time trying these instead of Akebono) and some rebuilt Total Eclipse brand calipers from my local NAPA.

Sure enough, the drivers side caliper had a seized piston. I decided to replace the NAPA caliper hardware with OEM and kept the NAPA stuff for spares. The bleeders and banjo bolt were noticeably different, although I'm sure they would have worked fine (the OEM bleeder is much taller though, which makes access easier). Also, both of my "M" springs were broken so I doubled up on those. Not sure if it'll be an issue, but I like symmetry:

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Everything bolted up nicely and I they looked like OEM cores, as far as I could tell. I've seen positive and negative reviews on these. Hopefully, I got a good set. They have a limited lifetime warranty and I have a half dozen NAPA locations within 15 minutes of me so that's reassuring:

IMG_20191007_115026-01.jpg


Discs were in decent shape and within spec so I decided to keep them on without turning them (I have a few more miles before my bearing service is due anyway).

While I was at it, I decided to replace the brake fluid, which hasn't been changed since I bought the LX three years ago. I drained the accumulator, suctioned out as much of the old fluid as I could and dumped in a can of ATE type 200. I let the calipers gravity bleed for a bit and then did the one-man bleeding show with a Motive Power Bleeder and the Power Probe Toyota cap (excuse the mud):

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I didn't actuate the ABS since I still have to do rear pads and figured I'd do another bleed then. Pads bedded in nicely and my braking is back to what it should be.
 
Took a deep breath and ordered parts.

I have the dreaded coolant leak from the weep hole at 81k and 15 years, so you can guess where this is going. :D
 
Not necessarily all this week but last 2-3.
Powersteering Reservoir hose 3 weeks ago:
Wits End Power Steering Reservoir Hose
Big reco/plug for Wits End PS hose, I replaced my steering rack and hi and lo pressure lines in July. During or before this hose got a slice in it, the oem hose was $80--ridiculous, so I took it off degreased it and put flex seal tape over the slit...which actually largely worked but heat makes it kinda slip and with safety inspection coming I needed to replace it. luckily found Wits Ends hose for $30, its a Continental hydraulic hose, good specs and ratings. Has a nice braided sleeve over it. If you are replacing your steering rack, get the hi and lo pressure lines from rock auto, then get this hose, and youre whole system will be new.
View attachment 2103721
and yes, I cleaned everything up and the engine bay after this, its fine now
General tune 2 weeks ago:
After taking the air intake off and cleaning the MAF and the throttle body intake I did a series of seafoam induction cleaning the intake/injectors/etc. using a method from @2001LC, not a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe but some the first rounds and next to none the second rounds. Letting the seafoam deepcreep/spray sit was definitely key. then replaced the following (very cheap from McGeorge Toyota):
All the vacuum lines and idle/up hoses replaced
PCV valve and PCV grommet replaced
Then took off my serp belt and removed my idle pulley, which was spinning freely with minimal noise, used a needle syringe style grease gun attachment and stuck it under the seal to pump in new grease and clean it out. No noise whatsoever now and only spins 1-1.5 revolutions when you spin it by hand. We'll see if that extends it life.
View attachment 2103725
View attachment 2103727
results wise, truck has an exceptionally smooth idle at 605rpm when warm doesnt dip much below that.
Last Week:
Put on new brake pads ($25 for front and rear after my company discounts and rebate!) in the rear and had rear rotors resurfaced ($10 at Oreillys)
View attachment 2103728
cheapies obviously, but theyre ceramic, and the rear (front were fine so I left em) are easy to change out, so for $25 I dont care. Took apart rear calipers, cleaned, replaced seal and boots, greased and put back together. Super easy and quick job if you have the right air hose fitting to blow out the piston just follow the FSM.
Install Powertech Stainless Steel Brake lines in the front, and flushed the brake fluid with Toyota Dot 3. Feels great. Did my best to "bed" the brakes.
This weekend (and yesterday):
Rebooted driver side CV - inner was torn but very clean. Replace outer since its probably old. Teeth on the splines arent great but its a new hub flange so I'd rather wait to replace the whole axle.
Wanted to reboot passenger side, both boots were torn to shreads. Grease was completely black. Outer boot has actually been torn since march of this year. In April I just squirted more CV grease in through the sliced opening and cleaned the boot and put flex seal tape over and wrapped all around the boot. I'm not recommending that....but I did then drive 6,000 miles, multiple trails and offroad trips, several water crossings and all without so much as a click. Anyways flex seal eventually unwrapped and came off. Black crap everywhere, I take off the CV and it turns out its one of those 3-ball bearing aftermarket CV axles so I couldnt reboot it even if I wanted to. All that to say these trucks, and even some of their aftermarket components, are tough and its amazing what you can get away with. *as an aside there was some vibrations in the truck with that cv at highway speed but very minimal*
Ordered a brand new toyota cv axle from mcGeorge for $395 shipped and put it in yesterday, drained and filled front diff, buttoned her up and drove her around and now shes all good.
Really just about done (for now), very broke and out of time to work on the truck with a 3rd baby being born and this being the main baby hauler with no back up, can't let it sit on blocks through the week. Plan to remedy this in spring with a real cheap backup vehicle. The truck is currently at 499,450 and im taking my boys and FIL for little offroad camping trip this weekend in Western VA so we'll see if we can crack the long awaited 500,000 mark.

You buried the lede. 500k. Take video of odometer.
 
Picked up a stock 18" wheel for my spare to match my other four wheels. It was a little bit more chipped up than expected, but a little cleaning and Nu Finish paste and it doesn't look bad. Time to find a deal on a Wildpeak AT3 and modify the spare carrier.

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