What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)

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Drained and filled front and rear differentials and the transfer case with Amsoil at @Poncherelli's place and got his transfer case done.
(Not pictured are Amsoils super handy 75W-90 oil packs)

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This was the drain plug from the rear differential, this isn't too bad right? Front had almost nothing, just sludge.

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Drained and filled front and rear differentials and the transfer case with Amsoil at @Poncherelli's place and got his transfer case done.
(Not pictured are Amsoils super handy 75W-90 oil packs)

View attachment 1834688

This was the drain plug from the rear differential, this isn't too bad right? Front had almost nothing, just sludge.

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I would say those larger filings and shards are not great.... typically I think you'll find that on a diff magnet out of a vehicle that has had little preventative maintenance done you normally see the thick metal paste build up pictured on the one side of the magnet. But if its driving fine I wouldn't necessarily freak out. Sucks you poured some liquid gold in there. If it was mine I would drain and fill the rear diff when you change the oil the next time or in 3 to 5k miles and see what the magnet looks like a again and go from there, just my honest opinion.
 
I would say those larger filings and shards are not great.... typically I think you'll find that on a diff magnet out of a vehicle that has had little preventative maintenance done you normally see the thick metal paste build up pictured on the one side of the magnet. But if its driving fine I wouldn't necessarily freak out. Sucks you poured some liquid gold in there. If it was mine I would drain and fill the rear diff when you change the oil the next time or in 3 to 5k miles and see what the magnet looks like a again and go from there, just my honest opinion.

Agree with the flush and drain in next oil change, but when you bought liquid gold and wasn't expecting this I'm sure not many would want to take a detour to source some cheap temporary gear oil.

I just finished my transfer case and it looked great from original owners last flush at 120k and i did at 188k. that's about 70k later and looked clean, got to love those lexus maintained mall cruisers.

I went with the inexpensive option of walmart super tech fully synthetic 75w90 for $5.36 x 8 which is well reviewed across many forums for price.

Super Tech Full-syn 75w90 Gearoil Qt
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-syn-75w90-Gearoil-Qt/309470123
 
Pulled the old broken lump yesterday

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And tossed the new one in today. New everything on the replacement engine as well as a new rack and tie rods. I’ll have to update my build thread with all the specifics but she’s back on the road.

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Just waiting on the engine cover in this one and a good test drive. Unfortunately test drive will have to wait till February till I’m back out west.

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Pulled the old broken lump yesterday

View attachment 1834950


And tossed the new one in today. New everything on the replacement engine as well as a new rack and tie rods. I’ll have to update my build thread with all the specifics but she’s back on the road.

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Just waiting on the engine cover in this one and a good test drive. Unfortunately test drive will have to wait till February till I’m back out west.

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What happened to the old lump?
 
I would say those larger filings and shards are not great.... typically I think you'll find that on a diff magnet out of a vehicle that has had little preventative maintenance done you normally see the thick metal paste build up pictured on the one side of the magnet. But if its driving fine I wouldn't necessarily freak out. Sucks you poured some liquid gold in there. If it was mine I would drain and fill the rear diff when you change the oil the next time or in 3 to 5k miles and see what the magnet looks like a again and go from there, just my honest opinion.

Agree with the flush and drain in next oil change, but when you bought liquid gold and wasn't expecting this I'm sure not many would want to take a detour to source some cheap temporary gear oil.

I just finished my transfer case and it looked great from original owners last flush at 120k and i did at 188k. that's about 70k later and looked clean, got to love those lexus maintained mall cruisers.

I went with the inexpensive option of walmart super tech fully synthetic 75w90 for $5.36 x 8 which is well reviewed across many forums for price.

Super Tech Full-syn 75w90 Gearoil Qt
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Full-syn-75w90-Gearoil-Qt/309470123

Considering my oil change is in about 1,500 miles, I'll wait and go 5k and just drain it again. I don't have any history with the vehicle so I have no clue the last time the fluids were done. I know they were at some point, because the rear fill plug was not OEM.

What would be my next step after I do the second drain and fill aside from assess how the plug looks (the obvious)?

Part of me just wants to run this until the next recommend drain and fill but I know I shouldn't.
 
New booster pump and accumulator.

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On a cold snowy day in Wisconsin
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I started to strip the 20 yr old AHC off my 98 LX470
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What a MF-ing, miserable job it was. 20 years in midwest has made sure all the bolts are rust welded SOLID. Had to cut off every single freaking thing. I have long suspected this, but confirmed this weekend - in right circumstances an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel is a man's best friend!

Even the torsion bars were rust welded to the torque arms. big shout out to @roma042987 for sending the hardware for both sides of the torsion bars. I was able to just cut the bars and get all rust free hardware installed.

8 hours of blood and sweat!
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Now just need to get alignment checked and it will be all done!
 
Picked up a Smittybilt RTT on sale for $720 total! Mounted it up and “camped” in front of my house. Pretty decent tent overall. The Velcro attachment for the cover is kind of a pain. But, for the money, fine to deal with. Can confirm it’s waterproof.....it rained hard in the middle of the night. No water intrusion. Will be installing the ARB fridge wiring kit over the holiday.

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I did the exact same job a week ago. Took me about 6 hours start to finish. Did you fiddle with the clavicle spindle length where it connects with the brake pedal?

No, didn't do anything else besides R&R booster and accumulator, going to break down the old one and dissect it, see what I can find.
 
Went to the freaking DollarTree for cleaning supplies and when I arrived at the house the nozzle cap leaked from the BLEACH cleaner on my brand new floor mats and carpet!!!!!!! I called back and went to speak to management.

And of course at some dollar stores you get what you get with service but the young lady (asst manager) was pleasant but had no idea what to do. Ahe called the GM that instructed her to call another store to help her, who in turn had her call someone else because NO ONE SEEM to have claims/district numbers. Finally got it... then it took 20 minutes to find the forms, we had to do it twice because they didn’t have copy machine! I took a picture but wanted hard copy as well.

Then comes another little 19 or 20 yr old shift manager that tries to be a district attorney... questioning me kinda sarcastically. I nipped it in the bud.! “Young lady I’m tired and perturbed at this moment please go play somewhere else” :-/

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Nissan 300Z Magnaflow best exhaust no Flowmaster Borla

Keep ya posted!
 
On a cold snowy day in WisconsinView attachment 1835140

I started to strip the 20 yr old AHC off my 98 LX470
View attachment 1835141

What a MF-ing, miserable job it was. 20 years in midwest has made sure all the bolts are rust welded SOLID. Had to cut off every single freaking thing. I have long suspected this, but confirmed this weekend - in right circumstances an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel is a man's best friend!

Even the torsion bars were rust welded to the torque arms. big shout out to @roma042987 for sending the hardware for both sides of the torsion bars. I was able to just cut the bars and get all rust free hardware installed.

8 hours of blood and sweat!
View attachment 1835142 View attachment 1835143

Now just need to get alignment checked and it will be all done!

On a cold snowy day in WisconsinView attachment 1835140

I started to strip the 20 yr old AHC off my 98 LX470
View attachment 1835141

What a MF-ing, miserable job it was. 20 years in midwest has made sure all the bolts are rust welded SOLID. Had to cut off every single freaking thing. I have long suspected this, but confirmed this weekend - in right circumstances an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel is a man's best friend!

Even the torsion bars were rust welded to the torque arms. big shout out to @roma042987 for sending the hardware for both sides of the torsion bars. I was able to just cut the bars and get all rust free hardware installed.

8 hours of blood and sweat!
View attachment 1835142 View attachment 1835143

Now just need to get alignment checked and it will be all done!
Utter carnage! Good work though!
 
Did the DRL mod from TLCFAQ. Added a switch to the right of the mirror control on our 2002 LC. I seperated my shoulder last week, so crammed in that footwell sucked, but now we have control over our DRL. Upon reconnecting the battery the cruiser just wanted to idle low (200rpm or so) then stall. Got some throttle body cleaner, MAF cleaner, and a new air filter. Everything was pretty gunked up from a summer of b-roads and backwoods of eastern Oregon. She purrs like a kitten now.

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Also plastidipped the front emblem and the chrome trim on the grill, a few coats of anthracite on both, with glossafier on the emblem only. Much better atmo. We shall see how it holds up. Yes, I know it would look even better with a bumper and some of the black depo one piece headlights.

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