What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (22 Viewers)

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This approach sounds much more appealing than drilling.... fish tape ordered :bounce:

Don't drill thru the firewall. Just go thru the BIG rubber grommet on either side of the engine bay (one on drivers side and one on the passenger side). No need to drill at all. Just cut a small slit in the grommet and pull the lines thru using an electricians fish tape.
 
I finished the extension of my DIY sleeper platform. After having the cargo section installed for a week or so, I’m thinking it might be a permanent fixture. This thing is super handy! Leave all my daughters softball stuff underneath and still have the top for all the everyday stuff. You know, kids backpacks, groceries, and all the other super cool family crap. :hillbilly:

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I also found a Lund Catch All rear floor mat on Amazon for $28 with Prime shipping. It’s a little darker than the factory carpet and it does move a bit, but it’s going to work fine for the price.

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Where did you find this for that price? I searched Amazon but couldn't find anything near that price
 
This approach sounds much more appealing than drilling.... fish tape ordered :bounce:

Home Depot and Lowes sell it cheap. Heck, mine came from Harbor Freight.
 
Getting ready for a 6 day trip to the Sierra's and liking this idea. Couple questions...

-Is that on top of the 2nd row folded down or did you remove 2nd row?
-How thick is that plywood? Looks like there is no additional bracing to hold the weight of a person or in my case, 2 people.

Yes, it is on top of the second row. I thought I would have to shim it up some but it's pretty straight as it is. The plywood is standard 1/2" birch from Home Depot. I used 6 12" supports and it is actually plenty strong enough for my wife and I. I'm 175 pounds and she is 145 pounds. I was concerned about the strength also as I hoped to use Baltic Birch. But since I couldn't find any local, I decided to try the cheap stuff and go from there. If you wanted stronger, you could just use 3/4" plywood, but it will be heavier. I'm probably in the 40 to 50 pound range right now for the full setup.
 
Yes, it is on top of the second row. I thought I would have to shim it up some but it's pretty straight as it is. The plywood is standard 1/2" birch from Home Depot. I used 6 12" supports and it is actually plenty strong enough for my wife and I. I'm 175 pounds and she is 145 pounds. I was concerned about the strength also as I hoped to use Baltic Birch. But since I couldn't find any local, I decided to try the cheap stuff and go from there. If you wanted stronger, you could just use 3/4" plywood, but it will be heavier. I'm probably in the 40 to 50 pound range right now for the full setup.


Awesome, thank you!

Also...don't let the wife know you posted her weight on a forum used by 1000's worldwide! :grinpimp:
 
Awesome, thank you!

Also...don't let the wife know you posted her weight on a forum used by 1000's worldwide! :grinpimp:

Haha! Very true. But at 5’10”, she doesn’t have anything to be worried about. Now if she was 4’10”..... :flipoff2:
 
Gotta love Amazon... here before I even got home from work!
Home Depot and Lowes sell it cheap. Heck, mine came from Harbor Freight.

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View attachment 1721408 Scored some Total Chaos uppers for $450 on eBay and got some 555 lower ball joints replaced last Friday. An alignment on Saturday and the ride is night and day difference from the clunky front end issues I was having. Smooth and solid feel now.

How much of a PITA were the lower ball joints? I need to do mine soon, and am not looking forward to it.
 
Did my heater T's -- pleased I did as one fell apart as i was took off one of the clamps o_O

Also put this table on my Slee bumper. You can never have enough work surface!

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I haven’t seen a metal coat hanger in at least a few years...

I have an over abundance from sending shirts to the cleaners, I'm sure I can spare a few.
 
How much of a PITA were the lower ball joints? I need to do mine soon, and am not looking forward to it.
I typically do all the work on my truck myself but my mechanic friend owed me a favor so he installed the UCA’s and the lower ball joints for free. He got it all done in less than 4 hours, and didn’t mention the lower ball joints were difficult to get out. It really made a world of difference. I got the 555 brand at NAPA for about $50 each.
 
Changed out my rear stabilizer bar links, bushings, cushions, etc. They must have been wearing down for years because I'm lucky one of the bolts didn't shear through. Also changed the oil and filter (349,000km). The ride is much less wobbly now.
You can see the cushions were cracked and how much the link is worn at the bolt joining to the bar.
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Bolt on the left is from the passenger side, one of the right is from the driver side (see wear on link in above photo). I pulled the driver one of first and initially thought "What's with the specially-shaped bolt here?" before it dawned on me that it's not supposed to look that way. Seeing the unworn bolt on the passenger side confirmed that. I bought this Cruiser late last year and the previous owner must have never even checked these things because that's been wearing down for a long time.
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Old passenger side link compared to new. Just a little bit bent.
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Driver side old link compared to new. Can see why the bolt looked the way it did.
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New driver's side link in place. Replacement bolt isn't OEM (apparently the Toyota dealership here doesn't stock high tensile bolts?) but same thread and length, just a bigger head size
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