What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (80 Viewers)

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Woke up to a dead battery (5.2V on the voltmeter) due to leaving my LED fog light pods on overnight. Wouldn't even turn over and it took about 10min of charging via jumper cables before it finally started. I believe an X2 Power 27F battery is in my near future since this Everstart is going on 5yrs old and has died 3 times now. Also woke up to my gum floating in my center console....guess that means its time to clean the sunroof drains again. I've had better mornings:bang:
 
I got my cargo area 12 volt system wired in, and the LED spot lights in the lift gate. I went with the "warm white" LED's due to their similarity to incandescent lights. And it's a great amount of light! I also fabricated a simple panel to hold the 12 volt charging ports. (usb and the standard type), and a volt meter. I wired in a momentary switch so the meter only comes on when I need it. It all came out very clean!

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Looks nice, what did you wire everything to?
 
Kind of busy this weekend:

Installed my Metal Tech Sliders- I had been waiting for months to get availability of them and they finally had a set come available from an order that didn't get paid for. Lucky me. They aren't making them regularly for the 100 anymore, and I think they are going to be redesigned. So these might have been the last ones of the current design.

Finally got around to installing my rear coil springs and finishing my lift. Ironman Toy13B (0-200kg additional weight). They were approximately the same length as the factory springs but- they sure didn't let the back end compress much. No doubt they yield at bit over 2" of lift, since I couldn't get out of my garage- lol- I had to remove my rhino cross bars from the factory rails, and even then I only had a few mm of clearance.

While underneath there, I also replaced the sway bar links with Mana-Fee extended 80 series links, and replaced the sway bar bushings as well. It was all going well until one of the bolts holding the bushing brakes froze, and then snapped. That took another 30min to drill that out and clean up the threads. Back end sure handles differently with new springs & sway bushes.

Picked up some Metaltech upper & lower links, and a whitline adjustable pan hard while they were on sale, and waiting to install next time I have a day to spend crawling under the truck. Ready for rear bumper & drawers to settle that back end down.
Would like to see pics, when you crawl back under there. I have to do these things as well i have a lot of miles and its time change a lot of bushings.

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Woke up to a dead battery (5.2V on the voltmeter) due to leaving my LED fog light pods on overnight. Wouldn't even turn over and it took about 10min of charging via jumper cables before it finally started. I believe an X2 Power 27F battery is in my near future since this Everstart is going on 5yrs old and has died 3 times now. Also woke up to my gum floating in my center console....guess that means its time to clean the sunroof drains again. I've had better mornings:bang:
thats sucks, i left my sunroof open once and it rained over night, i dried everything off and all was fine.
 
Looks nice, what did you wire everything to?


Right now, it's all temporarily wired to the main battery. I already have the 2nd battery tray in place, but until I get a refrigerator, I'll wait before I purchase that 2nd battery. It's only powering the hatch lights and simple 12 volt plug-ins for now anyway.
 
Replaced the small (slightly leaking) inner clamps on my CV boots with the PFRAN clamps. Noticed the end link bumpers/bushings on my front sway are cracking so those are likely next on the list. Main bushings are fine as is everything on the rear sway.
 
how are you holding the bar up when disconnected?

I wrap the ends of the sway bar with an S-Hook strap. I'm armor-less right now, so I have a chance of hitting the bottom of the sway bar while wheeling (I've gone to some harder trails and haven't come close to it yet). The rubber straps make sure there is some play in the bar in case I hit it. Once I have some armor, hitting the sway bar shouldn't be an issue; I'll fabricate something more permanent/robust at that point. Here's a picture of the passenger side to see how it's held up.

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I wrap the ends of the sway bar with an S-Hook strap. I'm armor-less right now, so I have a chance of hitting the bottom of the sway bar while wheeling (I've gone to some harder trails and haven't come close to it yet). The rubber straps make sure there is some play in the bar in case I hit it. Once I have some armor, hitting the sway bar shouldn't be an issue; I'll fabricate something more permanent/robust at that point. Here's a picture of the passenger side to see how it's held up.

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I started playing with this the other day and I see and like your idea of having flex when disconnected especially without a diff drop. I will say AHC guys can get to there bump stops without disconnecting. ;)
 
great idea on the lights
I got my cargo area 12 volt system wired in, and the LED spot lights in the lift gate. I went with the "warm white" LED's due to their similarity to incandescent lights. And it's a great amount of light! I also fabricated a simple panel to hold the 12 volt charging ports. (usb and the standard type), and a volt meter. I wired in a momentary switch so the meter only comes on when I need it. It all came out very clean!

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I'm interested in this mod if it can and more "something" to the party. Can you try to describe the difference in offroad capability with the front sway bar disconnected.

If you're not afraid of drilling into the captive nut (i.e. making it useless for the OEM bolt), I would say go for it. It took me 10 minutes for both sides - very quick DIY. It would be simple to go back to a factory setup anyway. You drill a ⅜" hole for the pin - you can always use a ⅜" bolt and nut with red loctite to really hold the sway bar in place.

To answer your question about off-road capability: It removes the connection between driver and passenger side suspension, thus allowing them to actually operate independent from one another. The result is a much smoother experience off-road, when each side of the truck is experiencing different road surfaces. Also, there's some debate on if the mod increases travel (in theory it should), but it really allows the suspension to quickly address changes in the road surface, without affecting the other side. For example, if I run over a rock on the passenger side, the driver side won't be affected like it use to be with it connected. MUCH smoother. I reckon, because it's smoother, it's easier on components too.

As for pavement drivability, I haven't noticed a difference between the factory setup and the quick disco setup.
 
Guys with larger tires and stock t-bars need to be aware/careful with swaybars disconnected if you are able to achieve full travel. Bump stop adjustment may be needed to avoid tire fender issues.

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AHC in Net. setting with sway bars connected

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Replaced my heater tees. Other than the inconvenient locations of the clamps, compounded by my lack of height it was a simple job.

My tees looked fine and showed no signs of failure on my 07 with 127k on it.
 

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