What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (23 Viewers)

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Bought a 2001 LX470 with 199k miles, hoping to be the steward for the second half of its life. Have been searching for a rust-free 100 for a over a year, I'm really happy with it.

It spent 10 years in North Carolina and the last 5 years used sparingly to haul a trailer in PA; there's less rust on it than my 5 y/o Subaru. It'll be used as a downhill MT bike/windsurfing/skiing/road trip rig to take miles off the now-built motor in my Subaru (EJ255 woes). Previous owner seemed to be on top of maintenance and made some tasteful modifications (Pioneer 7" touch-screen head unit, HIDs, NO RUST).

First thing I did was a full exterior/interior cleaning and AHC flush. Next will be to dump the 275 LTX M/S tires for 285s, either KO2 or General AT2. First major project will be a rear drawer system that borrows heavily from Zane's design (100 Series Rear Drawer System Build (w/picks)). I'd like to remove the running boards but my gf is 4'11 so maybe they'll stay for now...

-Jon

Crappy cell pics
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Installed Walbro 225 fuel pump to main tank. Still have sub tank to do. Also gapped my spark plugs (NGK BKR6EKB-11) properly as it was missing under boost. Gaps were huuuuuge, didn't check them before installing. Seems to be a lot better so far.

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FSM states to never change gap on used spark plugs. You didn't mention used, but I thought I'd throw that out there.
 
Loving the cake. What year is your rig? when I leave my lights on there is some sort of power draw safety shuts everything off, mine is an 01 and it came with that. I've left the interior lights on a number of times, next morning everything is off and as soon as I start the truck they come back on.

It's a 99 and the battery was quite old. I think one of my friends also left the key on while we took pictures.
 
After breaking replacement key fob shells time and time again (one cracked on the second crank) I came up with a solution that I think might just last a few years. If there's interest I'll offer them up for sale. 3D printed key fob shells:

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Cranking the 100 series with a solid key (non-remote) feels sooo good, but not having the remote is lame. Now I'm living the dream, haha.
 
FSM states to never change gap on used spark plugs. You didn't mention used, but I thought I'd throw that out there.

Good to know, thanks mate.

I didn't know that and yes they were in the engine already so I gapped 'used' plugs essentially. Service time next week so I'll swap them out for brand new ones.
 
After breaking replacement key fob shells time and time again (one cracked on the second crank) I came up with a solution that I think might just last a few years. If there's interest I'll offer them up for sale. 3D printed key fob shells:

keyfobsidea.jpg


Cranking the 100 series with a solid key (non-remote) feels sooo good, but not having the remote is lame. Now I'm living the dream, haha.

I am very interested! Keep me posted!
 
Good to know, thanks mate.

I didn't know that and yes they were in the engine already so I gapped 'used' plugs essentially. Service time next week so I'll swap them out for brand new ones.
Your welcome. I happen to have just done a compression check & plug swap. Read that in the FSM while looking for gap. New gap at 1.1mm, used max 1.3mm. FSM for 2001 2UZ-fe "Never attempt to adjust gap of used plug"
When to change spark plugs?
 
After breaking replacement key fob shells time and time again (one cracked on the second crank) I came up with a solution that I think might just last a few years. If there's interest I'll offer them up for sale. 3D printed key fob shells:

keyfobsidea.jpg


Cranking the 100 series with a solid key (non-remote) feels sooo good, but not having the remote is lame. Now I'm living the dream, haha.

I am very interested as well, please add me to the list.
 
Oil change, rear O2 sensors, new cabin air filters, and moved the ground on my amp to try to get rid of the ground loop whine I have. O2's actually didn't take much persuasion, but the ground loop whine is still there. :bang:
 
Those drawers look fantastic! Did you buy a kit or plans for them? If not, do you have a copy of the plans you created?

Thanks! I drew the carcass and drawers in solidworks. The surrounding trim were added afterwards. Maybe I'll create a thread this weekend and upload the plans and bill of materials. It would probably be a nice starting point for someone to make changes to suit their needs.
 
Hey @BoiseFJ - you've got some interested folks in the tailgate cutting board. can you provide the details?


Sorry, just saw this, They are made from 1/2" Food Grade HDPE Cutting board material. It has a blood groove to stop fluids from running off the board. 2 Round cutouts for glasses so they don't slide off the board if your parked at an slight angle, one oval cutout for squeeze bottles etc. They mount with 8 painted white screws provided. Here is a pic of one mounted on my 100. Send me a PM for pricing.
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1. Simply remove your carpet, clean the area, and clamp the cutting board on the tailgate and measure both sides to get it even.
2. Make the sure the back end (which is the top of the tail gate, farthest from the tailgate hinges) has the edge of the cutting board even with it. (this is so the tail gate closes properly.
3. Mark the holes with a punch or scribe.
4. Remove the cutting board and drill the holes with a starter bit, I recommend a 3/32" drill bit.
5. Remove any burrs from drilling.
6. Place the board on the tailgate and insert the screws.
7. Clean and maintain your cutting board with Clorox Disinfecting wipes.
 
Picked the wife up an 08 LX 570. My rig is freeeeeee
 

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