Wondering if there is a Lexus manufacturer's mandated time period within which to change spark plugs (sort of like the recommended mileage within which one does the timing belt/water pump)? I ask because I just had the LX in for its first post crash service and was told I should be thinking about this (USD$250). Given some of the threads I have seen here talking about changes my 50k miles don't seem to warrant this expense at the moment and I don't notice any performance reasons for doing so. My view is that it is a good a idea for Lexus Inc., less so for me.
When to change spark plugs? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Stuckinthemud
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Something is wrong with the world when changing 8 spark plugs costs $250.
IMHO 70 - 80K if the plugs are iridium or platinum which I would think they are. I just bought a truck with 75K miles. It's something I'm going to look into next week.
On further research 120K miles seems to be the number.
On further research 120K miles seems to be the number.
Wal-Mart has Denso spark plug for $6.33 ea., and Advance is running a special for even less. It's a 1 hour job, so $250 seem a bit high. But hey, Lexus has a great waiting area. FSM states replace at 60K miles, but Maintenance schedule states 120K miles. These are good until they don't pass inspection.
Here's what they look like after 214K miles. Notice the oily look mainly #1 & #6 plug threads, they were loose. Plugs had been removed 3k miles ago by a shop, to replace tube seals. The oil appearance is from the sea foam fogging done just before pulling plugs, seeping past gasket (plug washer). The plug actually looked pretty good for 214K. I'll check gap if I get time, just to see if any went over the limit.
These are plugs with 97,500 on them. They looked so good I keep, cleaned up and all tested ok.
Here's what they look like after 214K miles. Notice the oily look mainly #1 & #6 plug threads, they were loose. Plugs had been removed 3k miles ago by a shop, to replace tube seals. The oil appearance is from the sea foam fogging done just before pulling plugs, seeping past gasket (plug washer). The plug actually looked pretty good for 214K. I'll check gap if I get time, just to see if any went over the limit.
These are plugs with 97,500 on them. They looked so good I keep, cleaned up and all tested ok.
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guardcompany
Shea
I just purchased a 2004 with 138k on the clock. It's last dealership service was 90k and plugs aren't included. So it still had factory plugs so the first thing I did was change them.
- Thread starter
- #6
Thanks all for thoughts. I agree with the view on the stupid cost of changing them and the fact that I would have to drink a lot of coffee in the (very nice) waiting room to make this a worthwhile trade. I kinda think the suggestion was a bit of a "would you like large fries with that?' upsell move as much as anything. it is also the sort of thing I like to tell myself my limited mechanical repertoire could manage even though it has been a long time since my 22RE and 4runner days of doing so. Maybe I have gone soft.
- Thread starter
- #7
That is awesome that you would take the trouble to post these pics. Very helpful.
LX100 came with iridium plugs, good for 120k miles. Not sure what LC100 shipped with. Friend's Gen 1 Tundra came with platinum good for 60k miles. Regardless, I change my plugs when I change the timing belt. Relatively 'inexpensive' .
$250 sounds about right. An hour of labor is $120, 8x$12-15 a plug = $250
$250 sounds about right. An hour of labor is $120, 8x$12-15 a plug = $250
Don't think cost is too bad, for the coffee and snacks. Our newest Lexus dealer even has a pool table and sun Deck while enjoying a latté.
I just prefer doing my own. Makes me fell like I've accomplished something, and I enjoy saving $200 for other parts.
I above picture are from 2001 LX470 with 214K and a 2001 LC with 97.5K miles, each sets were install at the factory. Both the same Denso's SK20R11 Iridium long life plugs.
Here something interesting on the 241K miles #6 plug: Those striation on #6 plug insulator at 214K miles from LX.
I found similar striation (much lighter) on #6 at 97.5K miles on the LC.
Plug are a glimpse of how the 2UZ-fe combustion chamber is holding up, as well as the fuel quality, fuel/air mixture and spark. If gap get over 1.3mm they need to be change, or they will draw to much current from the coil. Coil will then overheat and fail. At least this is my understanding. But if I'm wrong here, please blast me. Always willing to learn.
Thanks for starting thread, better you than me
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For those considering DIY for the first time. Take care when installing, to hand tighten plugs, then torque to 13 ft-lbF. When torqueing hold the extension shaft of your tool, in the center of the spark plug hole with free hand. This reduce risk of cross threading, over or under tighten & breaking plugs insulator.
$250 is not bad for piece of mind, and for one that is not familiar with doing plugs.
While easy, I wouldn't recommend doing this job if one has never wrenched before. Only because of the fact that if done wrong, there could be serious and expensive consequences since it's the head of the motor.
The LC/LX is really easy on plugs. Generally low rpm operation, with relatively under-stressed combustion chamber. I'm always amazed how good the oil looks even after a fully interval.
While easy, I wouldn't recommend doing this job if one has never wrenched before. Only because of the fact that if done wrong, there could be serious and expensive consequences since it's the head of the motor.
The LC/LX is really easy on plugs. Generally low rpm operation, with relatively under-stressed combustion chamber. I'm always amazed how good the oil looks even after a fully interval.
Do you guys change other parts when you do plugs or just the plugs? Mine is around 137K and there is little chance the PO changed the plugs, so I am going to checkout Amazon to see what they have.
Not really, but good time to do a compression & leak down test if so inclined. The ignition coil seals & boots are usually ok. BTW coils are torqued to 66IN-lbf. Can clean the PCV, and PVC grommet (99-02) & hose usually needs replacing, but just as easy any time engine cover is off. Inspecting all vacuum & coolant hoses and drive belt is always a good idea. I also like to replace air filter if needed and clean MAF sensor. Just make sure to disconnect battery post for 30 minute while doing MAF sensor. Remember too always clean and grease battery post, whenever there disconnected.
I may buy two set from Advance Auto, not that I need them today. But they are listed at $9, minus $1.50 off plus $1 rebate. Additional they offer discount of 20% for signing up, and additional discounts for email referral to you and a friend of $10 & $30. Not sure how much can be combined, but they seem pretty liberal.
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aging fleet
SILVER Star
I just did mine last night. 103k on the original plugs, decided to do them before the 120k interval because I was worried the longer I waited the harder they'd be to get out.
As others have mentioned, the plug closest to the firewall on the driver's side is a pain. What made mine worse is I had a hard time getting the coil pack unplugged from the wiring harness. Figures it was the only one to give me issues.
I used the Denso SK20R11, unfortunately I paid $8.99 a piece at NAPA.
As others have mentioned, the plug closest to the firewall on the driver's side is a pain. What made mine worse is I had a hard time getting the coil pack unplugged from the wiring harness. Figures it was the only one to give me issues.
I used the Denso SK20R11, unfortunately I paid $8.99 a piece at NAPA.
Any advice on where I can find an OEM service manual for my 2002?
I use a piece of rubber fuel line slipped over the plug insulator. It hold the plug firmly, but lets the plug spin if it's not aligned with threads in the head.
ETA...I just checked Helm...no shop manuals available, only the body repair manual. Best I could say now is check eBay and / or post a wanted ad in the classifieds here. There is a downloadable shop manual file for, iirc, the 2004 MY...check the FAQ section here.
hth
Steve
