I did the passenger side a few months ago. That bushing was squeaking real bad and I didn't yet know the driver's side ball joint was bad until I went for an alignment. All good now!
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (55 Viewers)
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I did the passenger side a few months ago. That bushing was squeaking real bad and I didn't yet know the driver's side ball joint was bad until I went for an alignment. All good now!
First oil change since I've had it, used Mobil 1 synthetic with Toyota filter part # ending in a 3. The old filter was Toyota, but ended in a 1. Oil was pretty dark, overdue for a change. Took off skids to see what was going on, both access plates are missing, oh well. The oil drain plug did not have a washer, but wasn't leaking. I could see the indentation on the oil pan where a washer/gasket would go. I had the oil and tranny plug gaskets from the dealer (at least that's what I thought I got) but wasn't sure which was which, so used the flat metal one that looked like a washer with a thin layer of something on each side, size seemed to be pretty close to the indentation on the pan, any feedback on that? The other one I had was a crush type ring gasket that would flatten out, I didn't use it.
Used my new grease gun, was able to do the rear driveshaft u joints and slip yoke or whatever you call that. Grease came through the u joints fine, nothing past the yoke gasket, but I stopped when the driveshaft started to extend. The area around the slip yoke was a little greased, so a good sign someone had done them all before. The front driveshaft wasn't aligned to get the to the zerks, so I put on the skids and will them next time.
Then changed tranny fluid with Havoline synthetic ATF, drain plug came out with barely any pressure at all, can't believe it didn't fall out at some point. It had a thick washer/gasket brass colored that I reused. Set my torque wrench for 15ft/lbs, but stopped before I got it to click, it seemed plenty tight and I didn't want to strip it out. Just under 4qts drained out the pan, looked decent. Pulled the ATF return line on PS where it comes out past the radiator and pushed on a clear 3/8 hose in it's place, to a bucket, started it, pumped out 2qts at a time, refilled, repeated 6x.
Changed out the fog light bulbs, put in a new air filter, filled washer fluid, and finished while it was raining, that's Oregon for you. Have heater T's and all 6 hoses ready to go in the near future.
Used my new grease gun, was able to do the rear driveshaft u joints and slip yoke or whatever you call that. Grease came through the u joints fine, nothing past the yoke gasket, but I stopped when the driveshaft started to extend. The area around the slip yoke was a little greased, so a good sign someone had done them all before. The front driveshaft wasn't aligned to get the to the zerks, so I put on the skids and will them next time.
Then changed tranny fluid with Havoline synthetic ATF, drain plug came out with barely any pressure at all, can't believe it didn't fall out at some point. It had a thick washer/gasket brass colored that I reused. Set my torque wrench for 15ft/lbs, but stopped before I got it to click, it seemed plenty tight and I didn't want to strip it out. Just under 4qts drained out the pan, looked decent. Pulled the ATF return line on PS where it comes out past the radiator and pushed on a clear 3/8 hose in it's place, to a bucket, started it, pumped out 2qts at a time, refilled, repeated 6x.
Changed out the fog light bulbs, put in a new air filter, filled washer fluid, and finished while it was raining, that's Oregon for you. Have heater T's and all 6 hoses ready to go in the near future.
Went driving out in Mason County and started hearing a loud screeching sound from the engine bay. Popped the hood and noticed the serpentine belt was a little "glazed". Then noticed that the tensioner pulley wasn't moving at all. Oops! Well, drove all the way home (110 miles) with the pulley intermittently working (alternating between screeching and rattling). Ordered new bearings from Toyota and replaced them. Good as new now. Replaced the belt while I was at it. Only 12k on it, but figured it could have been damaged because of the pulley not working. Never seen bearings as "shot" as these in anything else. Never would have considered doing that job in the past. But, thanks to this forum, I've gained confidence AND a overwhelming desire to "tinker" with things. Thanks guys!
yotaworx
SILVER Star
Cleaned and greased battery terminals and changed fuel filter.
Hit the dealership this week for a rotor resurface with new front pads to stop them from squealing one day and then two days later I decided to have the timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, tensioner, thermostat and heater Ts. Timing belt service was a bit early (and cheaper than my Indy), but the summer will be here soon enough and I will have zero time and less $$$. Next time they should at least wash down the spilled coolant... Otherwise it looks like I killed someone running them over.
Installed the BT45 Bluetooth unit today. Crutchfield said I needed an adapter (which I bought) but actually didn't for my 2003 LC. Wasn't too hard after seeing other posts here on Mud. Mine came with a clip style mic. I ended up with it in the upper corner of the windshield. The little ball for the swivel on the clip pushes between the trim panels and holds it in place nicely. I pushed the wire between the trim panels and down under the dash.
Also cleaned and conditioned the seats and cleaned the carpets and floor mats. I still have the stock mats but the driver's side is worn through the carpet. The steam cleaner was coming up mud since it's been so long.
Also cleaned and conditioned the seats and cleaned the carpets and floor mats. I still have the stock mats but the driver's side is worn through the carpet. The steam cleaner was coming up mud since it's been so long.
I finally got around to applying some sound dampener to the rear cargo area and I'm very curious to see how this lowers the road and exhaust noise.
Last year I picked up two full boxes of Noico sound deadener for free from a very generous 80 Series owner in town (@effjay80). The boxes have been sitting in my garage and I have been putting this off for a quite a while now, but the weather was great and I was bored. I think it turned out rather nice.
(Don't mind all the dog noses on my rear windows, cleaning those is next on the list!)
Last year I picked up two full boxes of Noico sound deadener for free from a very generous 80 Series owner in town (@effjay80). The boxes have been sitting in my garage and I have been putting this off for a quite a while now, but the weather was great and I was bored. I think it turned out rather nice.
(Don't mind all the dog noses on my rear windows, cleaning those is next on the list!)
Had a whole new steering rack installed on Friday. My driveway is thankful for that. Got my Mud Flap Elimators in the mail on Friday as well. Rattle canned them on Saturday, installed on Sunday. VERY happy with the results. Unfortunately, after getting the guts to order all my pieces for my retro fit, I noted one of my headlights is "protruding", and I am not sure why. It's dark now, so I will focus on it this week and see if I can tell what is going on. "On to the next one" I guess. All part of it!
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
Your headlights look normal. It just looks like the corner light isn’t fully seated.Had a whole new steering rack installed on Friday. My driveway is thankful for that. Got my Mud Flap Elimators in the mail on Friday as well. Rattle canned them on Saturday, installed on Sunday. VERY happy with the results. Unfortunately, after getting the guts to order all my pieces for my retro fit, I noted one of my headlights is "protruding", and I am not sure why. It's dark now, so I will focus on it this week and see if I can tell what is going on. "On to the next one" I guess. All part of it!
Added the lightweight, high clearance, low cost rock rail sliders from LandCruiserProducts. I spent more time modding the factory flaps than the instal of the rails Great product!
Great product!
So after adding the quick release T pins for a front anti roll bar quick disconnect, I wanted to get some visual data. I wanted to see how much it actually helped get more side to side travel in the front. I have went on a lot of trips with the FSB disconnected and it definitely felt like I was getting better traction as a result of the better travel.
So I found a nice ramp to use here in the Bay Area. Ramp is 30 inches tall at the top and 12 feet long. First pictures are with the FSB still connected. My LC100 is driven far up the ramp as I could go slowly until one of the wheels were losing contact. In this case it was the PS rear that loses contact first. I used a rubber tie to point to the axle center.
Then here in the next photos I did the same thing, but with the pins removed.
And finally I took a measurement.
Here you can see I moved 8 inches further up the ramp. Some quick math in inches traveled up the ramp vs height. I should now be able to take one front wheel over an obstacle about 1.7 inches higher than before without losing traction. Not a lot, but every little bit helps.
So I found a nice ramp to use here in the Bay Area. Ramp is 30 inches tall at the top and 12 feet long. First pictures are with the FSB still connected. My LC100 is driven far up the ramp as I could go slowly until one of the wheels were losing contact. In this case it was the PS rear that loses contact first. I used a rubber tie to point to the axle center.
Then here in the next photos I did the same thing, but with the pins removed.
And finally I took a measurement.
Here you can see I moved 8 inches further up the ramp. Some quick math in inches traveled up the ramp vs height. I should now be able to take one front wheel over an obstacle about 1.7 inches higher than before without losing traction. Not a lot, but every little bit helps.
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Thanks for the definitive data!
I’m curious if you’ve driven on the street w/ them disconnected?
Yes for a few miles in between trails mostly. I would not DD without them connected, feels too weird under heavy braking and tight turns. But does not feel unsafe.
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What brand rack did you get? I just ordered one off RockAuto...Had a whole new steering rack installed on Friday. My driveway is thankful for that. Got my Mud Flap Elimators in the mail on Friday as well. Rattle canned them on Saturday, installed on Sunday. VERY happy with the results. Unfortunately, after getting the guts to order all my pieces for my retro fit, I noted one of my headlights is "protruding", and I am not sure why. It's dark now, so I will focus on it this week and see if I can tell what is going on. "On to the next one" I guess. All part of it!
I bought the one off of Detroit Axle. Free shipping and came to me in about 3 days.
Replaced OEM springs with hand me down OME 866. Got about 1.75-2 inches of lift. The previous springs were likely from the factory with ~250K miles on them. I will measure again after a few days of driving to see if it settles a bit. Key for getting OEM springs out was our creative use of the bottle jack to get full articulation:
Also changed oil, oil filter, cleaned MAF sensor and replaced cigarette lighter with dual usb port. Noticed a bit of grease potentially leaking from driver side CV axle, so add that to the list of spring maintenance items.
Also changed oil, oil filter, cleaned MAF sensor and replaced cigarette lighter with dual usb port. Noticed a bit of grease potentially leaking from driver side CV axle, so add that to the list of spring maintenance items.
Replaced my CV axles over the weekend. Not a complicated job, but very labor intensive. I read all of the write-ups and appropriate sections of the FSM beforehand and still struggled in some areas:
1) The drive flange cone washers are a major PITA. For the first side, I was very careful with a brass drift and a 2lb sledge, hitting the end of the stud/nut, the outside edge of the flange and the face of the flange next to the cone washers. I got them out but it was very frustrating and I ended up mangling the threads on some of the studs (next time, I'll have some replacement studs on hand, since they screw right in). By the time I got to the second side, I just pulled out the air rivet gun, ready to give it hell. To my surprise, a few rattles on the face of the stud/nut made the cone washers pop right out, and no mangled threads or flanges (I had new flanges, anyway).
2) The axles take a lot more force to remove/install than I thought. I was able to remove the passenger side with a brass drift on the lip, but I didn't have anything non-marring to install it with that didn't fall apart (tried a wood 2x2 and it would just splinter on the edge of the CV). I gave up and used a length of heavy wall steel tube with the sledge and it popped right in. I used the same method on the drivers side.
3) Checking the snap ring gap was a three-handed job. I used a bolt threaded into the end of the axle and levered it out with a claw hammer against the 54mm hub socket while I used the feeler gauge.
For next time, I'll make sure to keep a half-dozen drive flange studs on hand, get a CV joint puller and buy the correct snap ring tool (the pin type works, but is very fiddly).
