What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (35 Viewers)

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Finished my and installed my drawers.

Few hiccups along the way but overall pretty happy with how they turned out.

Next up a bath and wax before heading up north!


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is there tow points on the bumper? with two aluminum options, your bumper and dissents I can't decide.

I would not trust any recovery points on any aluminum bumper. I have seen and bent many bend on steel bumpers. I trust frame mounted recovery points much more.
 
I would not trust any recovery points on any aluminum bumper. I have seen and bent many bend on steel bumpers. I trust frame mounted recovery points much more.
Call me devils advocate here but what's the structural difference between a recovery point mounted directly to the frame and a recovery point on an aluminum bumper that is bolted to the frame? It seems like since a bumper is bolted to both frame rails it would disperse the pulling forces more equally between the two rather than just pulling from a single recovery point on one of the frame rails. I understand the aluminum bumper fear since it is more prone to bending than steel, but it seems like with today's technology, different grades of aluminum, and a knowledgeable designer you could have an aluminum recovery point on an aluminum bumper that's just as strong and reliable as its steel counterpart.
 
I would not trust any recovery points on any aluminum bumper. I have seen and bent many bend on steel bumpers. I trust frame mounted recovery points much more.

Call me devils advocate here but what's the structural difference between a recovery point mounted directly to the frame and a recovery point on an aluminum bumper that is bolted to the frame? It seems like since a bumper is bolted to both frame rails it would disperse the pulling forces more equally between the two rather than just pulling from a single recovery point on one of the frame rails. I understand the aluminum bumper fear since it is more prone to bending than steel, but it seems like with today's technology, different grades of aluminum, and a knowledgeable designer you could have an aluminum recovery point on an aluminum bumper that's just as strong and reliable as its steel counterpart.

We should have a yank competition.
 
Call me devils advocate here but what's the structural difference between a recovery point mounted directly to the frame and a recovery point on an aluminum bumper that is bolted to the frame? It seems like since a bumper is bolted to both frame rails it would disperse the pulling forces more equally between the two rather than just pulling from a single recovery point on one of the frame rails. I understand the aluminum bumper fear since it is more prone to bending than steel, but it seems like with today's technology, different grades of aluminum, and a knowledgeable designer you could have an aluminum recovery point on an aluminum bumper that's just as strong and reliable as its steel counterpart.
I have seen a lot of bent bumpers over the years from recovery steel included but never a bent frame YMMV
 
Is this the KISS drawers you bought or you made the entire thing yourself. Other than the color. I think it looks great!

I made them myself. I had the dimensions from another build and tweaked them a bit. Color looks a lot better in person, but hey to each his own!

Appreciate it!
 
99land, great work on restoring that hood.

What's the paint code on these jet black LX470? Is it 202 black onyx? I know on some earlier Lexus models they used no clearcoat which usually leads to that type of oxidation. I imagine in 98+ models they were all clearcoated at the factory.

It looks like clearcoat failure in the first pic, but the fact that you restored it to that kind of shine and gloss tells me it was definitely not clear coat failure but a severe case of oxidation. If it was clear failure, you would never be able to restore any shine in it. Is it possible that part of the truck was resprayed and they used no clear at the bodyshop? I've seen that a few times before.
 
99land, great work on restoring that hood.

What's the paint code on these jet black LX470? Is it 202 black onyx? I know on some earlier Lexus models they used no clearcoat which usually leads to that type of oxidation. I imagine in 98+ models they were all clearcoated at the factory.

It looks like clearcoat failure in the first pic, but the fact that you restored it to that kind of shine and gloss tells me it was definitely not clear coat failure but a severe case of oxidation. If it was clear failure, you would never be able to restore any shine in it. Is it possible that part of the truck was resprayed and they used no clear at the bodyshop? I've seen that a few times before.

@Kabanstva - My sticker inside the driver door jam indicates paint code is 202. I think it is severe oxidation on most of it. There is part of the hood on the driver side that even though it is shiny I can still see a lot of fading under the shine if that makes sense. That may be clear coat failure on that section. I don't know if I'll ever get that out. I don't want to go so hard at it that I rip the paint off all together.

I'm the second owner and have owned this LC since 2009. When I got it the hood was already in rough shape then so I don't think it was ever resprayed. Same for passenger front fender. However it is very obvious the driver fender was resprayed or replaced at some point because there was never any oxidation on it.

I've buffed the hood a few times over the years but never went at it like this to really try and correct some of it. We'll see if it lasts.
 
The inside plastic covers are back on..

I do have to confess I have a propensity for intensity, so I cover as much of the metal as possible.
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Every little until the truck was black..
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Is a shame dynamat is so expensive, but man what a great product, cabin noise drastically reduce and I don't even have any on the doors (waiting to get my new speakers) or the ceiling (afraid of taking the roof liner down and damaging it)

And Francky out of money..

Ps: the "dynamat tape" is nothing special, don't waste your money on it..
 
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Finally got rid of the horrible gold rear emblems.

Before (when cleaning seatbelts):
IMG_5132.JPG


Wanted to simply PlastiDip them but there was so much crud and caked-on crap around the letters I decided to remove them altogether. After much cleaning I was left with horrible shadows around all of the emblems, etched into the paint:

IMG_5394.JPG


Yes, I tried everything from 3M eraser wheel (awesome tool) to aggressive rubbing compound - they are permanent. 19 years of acid rain maybe? Who knows...

So I decided to cover up the whole mess with a 2006+ rear plaque (75441-60500-C0) and silver sombrero (75471-24131). Couldn't be happier with the result:

After:
IMG_5440.JPG


Still need to address the V8 emblem shadow, it's pretty bad... maybe the 4WD FJ60 emblem?

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Finally got rid of the horrible gold rear emblems.

Before (when cleaning seatbelts):
View attachment 1553299

Wanted to simply PlastiDip them but there was so much crud and caked-on crap around the letters I decided to remove them altogether. After much cleaning I was left with horrible shadows around all of the emblems, etched into the paint:

View attachment 1553296

Yes, I tried everything from 3M eraser wheel (awesome tool) to aggressive rubbing compound - they are permanent. 19 years of acid rain maybe? Who knows...

So I decided to cover up the whole mess with a 2006+ rear plaque (75441-60500-C0) and silver sombrero (75471-24131). Couldn't be happier with the result:

After:
View attachment 1553297

Still need to address the V8 emblem shadow, it's pretty bad... maybe the 4WD FJ60 emblem?

View attachment 1553304

Looks great, I can't wait to de-bling mine!
 

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